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727 front clutch orifice restriction size ?

js29u

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For 48 years my 727 with a fairbanks shift kit has thumped so hard and has overlap shifting manually, i finally pulled the valve body. I got rid of the shuttle blocker rod, putting the accumulator spring back in along with the missing ball bearing in the d hole. I also just drilled the passage a little bit next to that ball.
Its now almost stock except the separator plate.
Question is what size restrictor for front clutch. A&A thought when i mentioned .100 was alright. trans go , bm are 130-140 but i have the stock line spring, not the huge trans go springs. So i might need more than .100? With headers its torture pulling vb shift levers, so hate to go to small. The .100 sure looks small to the 11/32 (.344) in the case now.
A&A said maybe turn psi 1 turn over stock. Also bough a part throttle valve from them. I will let u know how that feels,
thanks in advance.
70 black challenger rtse alligator u car , like the ghost, only this is fast.
66 red charger 383 with 68 440 sold
 
Now you have some of this and some that valve body. It may not even need a restrictor. One way to find out
Doug
 
FWIW my preferred restrictor is a 1/8" IP plug... Tap the port to accept it... Grease the tap so the chips cling to the tap, flush the passage with brake clean but push the tube up into the hole so the brake clean flushes everything out not deeper into the passage.. Makes tuning the shift easier... When I was trying to dial in the shifts on my R/T I dropped the valve body four times to get it just right... By having the pipe plugs I could R&R the restrictor quickly without risk of getting debris in the passage... In the past I used cupped plugs like the shift kit manufacturers supply, the pipe plugs are way better..
 
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