Torqueflites may require pump bushings but, the rest of the bushings rarely wear out with proper maintenance.
Mike
Mike
Rebuilding my 727 - what optional parts usually need replacing?
- Thread starter rklewis1005
- Start date
jmk77379
Well-Known Member
I thought i had everything then had to have the TC rebuilt. Took 3 weeks. Don’t be in a rush.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
need to inspect the parts, but if it is in decent condition where it is more of a re-fresh than a rebuild, then most rebuild kits will supply all the gaskets, seals, and sealing rings. You need to make sure it is correct for your year transmission. Many kits will have seals and rings for different years, so don't throw out the old ones so you can match the old ones to the new ones. Basic kits will have stock type tan friction plates and uncoated steels. These are fine for most non-racing applications. Usually the pump and output shaft bushings are replaced, inspect the rest of the bushings. You should not need the detent repair kit, that is usually an item for the overdrive transmissions like the 48RE. Inspect rear band, but usually don't need a new one. Front band are common to replace. For a shift kit, the TransGo TF-2 has the parts / fixes to cover several applications from mild to high performance.
You won't need servos or accumulator. Shift kit will have you modify rear servo, and maybe change the front servo and accumulator spring.
If new to this, removing the pump could be an issue. I have two long bolts with big fender washers on them, and then I just run the curved part of a crow bar along the bolt shaft to hit the washers like a slide hammer. Getting the front drum piston out, the retainer needs to be evenly compressed. It can be done with two large C-clamps, but you need a flat plate or board under the drum as the drum has under cuts and will make the clamps want to slip off at an angle. I built a simple compressor with all thread going through the center.
If doing the bushings, a bushing/bearing driver set is useful. To stake the front pump bushing, use the round side of a phillips screwdriver, then test fit the converter in case the staking makes a tight spot. Test before installing front seal, and before installing pump seal, lube it as it is hard to lube when the stator / pump is assembled.
Do the modification of drilling the small hole near the return line connection through to the sprag area. Inspect the output shaft support for wear, and that the sprag is tight and staked in the case. Tighten the sprag set screw also. The sprag roller springs go in with the flat side of the spring towards the cage, and the side with the lip going towards the case, it should be pushing the roller into the sprag. On the valve body, don't upset the setting of the throttle pressure screw (the long phillips headed screw). Just back off the jam nut then unscrew it, or measure where it is set before removal. The valve body can be removed and installed with the parking rod attached, just rotate the output shaft to where that parking paw can go in. You should measure input shaft end play before taking the transmission apart, but most likely the end play settings will be fine unless you replace gears, thrust washers or drums.
Don't mix up the location of the large fiber washers (pump, drum), they set where the sealing rings sit inside the drum, along with the input shaft endplay.
Installing front servo retainer can be a pain. A helper, or a large C-clamp is useful for keeping the servo cover in thee bore while installing the retainer clip.
If using a thicker or reinforced front band lever (one might come with shift kit?) the part that kicks out goes away from the valve body (some of the large solid ones will hit the valve body if installed wrong.)
Trying to think of other stuff.. Like note the direction/contours of the rear band support, and the tab between the rear band and lever.
If replacing rear tailshaft bushing, not the location of the hole in the bushing. I'm not sure if it goes to the top or bottom (been a long time since I did a transmission.)
A kit like this (this one has upgraded Hi-Energy frictions):Fits Dodge 727 Transmission High Energy Rebuild Kit Level 2 TF-8 62-70 | eBay
You won't need servos or accumulator. Shift kit will have you modify rear servo, and maybe change the front servo and accumulator spring.
If new to this, removing the pump could be an issue. I have two long bolts with big fender washers on them, and then I just run the curved part of a crow bar along the bolt shaft to hit the washers like a slide hammer. Getting the front drum piston out, the retainer needs to be evenly compressed. It can be done with two large C-clamps, but you need a flat plate or board under the drum as the drum has under cuts and will make the clamps want to slip off at an angle. I built a simple compressor with all thread going through the center.
If doing the bushings, a bushing/bearing driver set is useful. To stake the front pump bushing, use the round side of a phillips screwdriver, then test fit the converter in case the staking makes a tight spot. Test before installing front seal, and before installing pump seal, lube it as it is hard to lube when the stator / pump is assembled.
Do the modification of drilling the small hole near the return line connection through to the sprag area. Inspect the output shaft support for wear, and that the sprag is tight and staked in the case. Tighten the sprag set screw also. The sprag roller springs go in with the flat side of the spring towards the cage, and the side with the lip going towards the case, it should be pushing the roller into the sprag. On the valve body, don't upset the setting of the throttle pressure screw (the long phillips headed screw). Just back off the jam nut then unscrew it, or measure where it is set before removal. The valve body can be removed and installed with the parking rod attached, just rotate the output shaft to where that parking paw can go in. You should measure input shaft end play before taking the transmission apart, but most likely the end play settings will be fine unless you replace gears, thrust washers or drums.
Don't mix up the location of the large fiber washers (pump, drum), they set where the sealing rings sit inside the drum, along with the input shaft endplay.
Installing front servo retainer can be a pain. A helper, or a large C-clamp is useful for keeping the servo cover in thee bore while installing the retainer clip.
If using a thicker or reinforced front band lever (one might come with shift kit?) the part that kicks out goes away from the valve body (some of the large solid ones will hit the valve body if installed wrong.)
Trying to think of other stuff.. Like note the direction/contours of the rear band support, and the tab between the rear band and lever.
If replacing rear tailshaft bushing, not the location of the hole in the bushing. I'm not sure if it goes to the top or bottom (been a long time since I did a transmission.)
A kit like this (this one has upgraded Hi-Energy frictions):Fits Dodge 727 Transmission High Energy Rebuild Kit Level 2 TF-8 62-70 | eBay
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