727 rising fluid level

[chermik1999]

Hi guys. Here's a new one for ya.

New peformance build. 3500 stall, transgo kit, installed a stand alone cooler and kickdown cable adjusted. Here's bullet point procedure

- 8 litre initial oil fill after 1 litre in TC
- startup and warm for say 5 mins
- check oil in N
- bit low.
- Top up another litre and reads under full.
- in the next 20 mins in 5 min intervals it creeps up to 1 1/2" over full.
- take for run and come back to check oil. Even higher. No foaming or leaks.

Disconnect return line and ran for 20 seconds. Got near 3/4 of a litre of oil, so no cooler issues. Blew air into the dipstick tube and air coming from vent. So no blockage there.

Let cool down and with TC drain back, reads below full initially then creeps up once again. Removing the excess and let sit overnight. Check again in am and have to add a litre. Then same thing happens again.

Strange, I go N to D and R a few times and it starts to drop. But back checking in N and starts rising up the stick once again.

So what am I doing wrong that I haven't done in like 40 years in the past. It's getting daunting..

Ideas?

 

[dvw]

We had this issue once. The trans also performed poorly. There was a crack in the valve body next to the converter fill valve. So sometimes the converter filled, sometimes not. If the trans works well have someone hold their foot on the brake and check the fluid in gear. With high idle the internal components will spin at sloshing fluid. This tip was given to me by a very high end race trans builder.
Doug

 

[chermik1999]

Wow! That's interesting.
It's taken me a long time to dial in the kickdown cable lokar style, but seems to be ok. As for running ok, it seems fine but I do notice for having a transgo, it just doesn't have the hard shifts.
I do have to pop into N for a bit to get it to engage, but for a 3500 stall there is slippage to get it rolling. But seems to hook up at 3500 rpm and I get a good burnout.
I did chock the wheels and with e brake on checked the level in gear. Seems a bit lower in the stick but I didn't try it for longer periods of time. I'll try that today.
Appreciate the advice Doug. But it sounds like you may have a point with valve body here.
As I said this is a new one for me. Im not as seasoned as some of you fellows are, but I have done a few in my time.
Just after playing around for so long one tends to get give up.

 

[Dipstick]

We had this issue once. The trans also performed poorly. There was a crack in the valve body next to the converter fill valve

Was it a '66 or '67 valve body?

 

[chermik1999]

Wow! Thats obvious..lol.
Didn't open it up yet. But maybe...I have to drop the pan And check.
BuT it runs ok, just oil creeps up.
Originally I thought it was because I had some pressure from the KD lever. One of the motor trend articles said that the first 3/4" of travel doesn't do anything when adjusting a Lokar KD cable. So start there....
So I made some added a return spring to seat it back to closed. It would appear that wasn't it..lol

 

[1KoolBee]

I’ve found that Dexron expands quite a bit in my 727 when hot. Like a 1/2 quart difference on the dipstick between cold and hot readings. So I fill to middle of hash marks on stick when cold and it reads at the top of the hash marks when hot.

 

[chermik1999]

Am using type F.

 

[1KoolBee]

Am using type F.

It should have similar expansion properties

 

[chermik1999]

Maybe so, you may be right. But not from add mark hot to 1" above in 15 mins?

 

[dvw]

Was it a '66 or '67 valve body?

View attachment 1871243

I was a 65. And yes it was cracked like that.
Doug

 

[chermik1999]

Wow...well aside for drain back in the TC, it runs pretty well. But doesn't hurt to check.
Im installing the 2nd one from the same builder in a 72 charger right now. I'll fire it up and see if same thing happens. Then I'll have a comparison. Will report soon.
Thanks