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727 valve body

OH71RRunner

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Right now I have a reverse pattern manual valve body. It's an older one with the free wheeling 1st gear. Apparently, that's a bad thing. The transmission was built about 15 years ago by a shop. I don't know exactly what all was done to it. The paperwork I have isn't all there. The order paper has "Race Built" circled and was several thousand in parts and labor. I know the transmission is stout.

I do have another 727 that should be stock that I can pull the valve body from. It came out of a running, driving car. So I know it's at least a good one.

The question is: do I use the stock valve body, keep what I have, or get a new one? I was thinking of getting a shift kit for the stock valve body.

What would be the recommended option?
 
I've run the non low band apply for years. Never an issue. If your worried about it run a shield, blanket or swap in an aftermarket front drum. Heck it may have one already if the trans was that expensive. The drum is about $650.
Doug
 
Are you looking to keep the manual shift option or would you rather have an automatic shifting, standard shift pattern, with a shift kit?
 
I'm really thinking of going back to a regular auto setup. I would eventually have to have a good shift kit. I love the way the manual VB shifts. It's amazing.

The thing I was worried about was exploding the transmission with the VB that's in it. My neighbor went on a big rant about it. And I've read others saying it wasn't a good setup for street use.

Don't laugh guys, but the BIG issue (which I think is stupid, lol) is Cari NOW wants to be able to drive the car too, and she's terrified about the shifting. She refuses to learn.

Ugh, women.
 
If the transmission was built for racing with a manual shift valve body, does it still have a governor?

I don't see how a stock valve body could affect the transmission adversely. The race parts are built for higher pressures, like the servos. You could always get an auto shift valvebody set up for street from Cope Racing Transmissions (CRT) for $225
 
Like dvw said ran mv for years with no low gear hold back. Just don't put it in low unless your stopped or almost stopped. If you put it in low at 15 20 mph the engine will free rev until its at speed car is going then grab. Hope @dvw will confirm that.
 
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Shouldn’t be a problem with other vb. Keep the better-half happy. Don’t go crazy on burnouts if any are done.
 
You will need throttle pressure linkage. You need to have the governor in there, it may have been removed. They are two separate systems, both are needed for the change back.

A stock valve body won’t work near as nice as the one you have. You’ll need a modified one for sure. You could kill the trans with a stock VB IMO.

That’s all we had for years was non low band apply cheetah valve body and like you said they work SOOO nice.
 
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The governor works with the kickdown linkage?
Is there a way to tell if the governor is there?
The kickdown arm is there if that makes any difference.
 
Is this something that I'd be better off finding a transmission shop to do it and discuss?

Don't worry, you aren't going to hurt my feelings if you say yes. Lol
 
You’d have to put a press.gauge on trans and raise rpm’s to see if press rises. Usually the guts from governor were removed with a full manual.
 
With MV you have full line pressure all the time. Anybody know if you can see if governor installed through speedo gear hole?
 
I'm in the same boat now. The tranny in my 65 has a A&A forward manual valve body.I too want to go back to a regular Valve body. I have the valve body and the kick down.Like you, don't know if the governor has been removed. The M-V-B will work with or without a governor in place.A&A said to pull the tail shaft to be sure first. The tranny was built about 14 years ago.I may just replace the tranny with a fresh stock one.
 
Is this something that I'd be better off finding a transmission shop to do it and discuss?

Don't worry, you aren't going to hurt my feelings if you say yes. Lol
With the questions you are asking you don't have a lot of experience with trans internals. I'd get someone who knows 727 race trans and have them take a look. Not tough but you need to know what your looking at.
Doug
 
OH71RRunner...your inbox is full....empty it for replies....
 
With the questions you are asking you don't have a lot of experience with trans internals. I'd get someone who knows 727 race trans and have them take a look. Not tough but you need to know what your looking at.
Doug
I don't have a lot of experience with much of anything more than basic stuff. I have been trying to learn. And the more I get into this car, the dumber I feel. Lol

OH71RRunner...your inbox is full....empty it for replies....

Sorry, it's cleaned out now.
 
I don't have a lot of experience with much of anything more than basic stuff. I have been trying to learn. And the more I get into this car, the dumber I feel. Lol
There are no dumb questions. A question is a search for knowledge. A big difference in dumb and lack of knowledge. This is something that you can learn. Disassembly is straight forward. The trouble here is you don't know what has been modified. Small mods may escape someone not familiar with some race mods. Most likely there isn't anything drastic. But without knowledge/experience you could miss something. My very first trans was a basket case someone gave me. Using a factory service manual to figure it out I built it. Took me 2 weeks. Worked flawlessly. Never looked back. Been building them now for 35 years.
Doug
 
There’s always something still to learn about these things. The most important- get a factory service manual, you can learn a lot from it.
 
I learned a lot after buying this book on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557883998/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

51qutvni6wL._SX387_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg
 
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