73 and up B body steering coupler

[fanucme]

I am looking to replace my oil soaked steering rag joint on my 73 Charger , I haven't much luck yet , I tried firm feel inc and they referred me to Atlas Obsolete Parts and I am waiting on a reply ...

I did see bouchillon had these FOR $81 on an old website but they look like they changed the design now and it looks like a hockey puck @ $120 , my car had headers on it so Im not too sure about that design

I have poly k member mounts and I am not considering any flaming river stuff or eliminating the rag joint either.

I have been thinking about re casting the rubber around the metal lugs , but if I can find the right part i'd buy it.

anyone been through this ?

 

[ODZKing]

They only used that crappy design on 72-3 C bodys and 73 B bodys.
I just got one from Bouchillon last summer. It basically is a hockey puck, powder coated but hey, I had to have it.
Here is what was left of mine and the new piece. Your call if you want to try the puck but I have to say the new one is nice. No longer requires the heat shield BTW.

 

[challenger6pak]

I used a Chevy one from the auto parts store on mine.

 

[Montclaire]

Try borgeson, I think they had replacements

 

[idrivemopar]

Funny your bring this up, I posted a thread about this last year, because I made one out of steel and one out of a hockey puck. I am using the steel one now in the car with the headers, and it only cost me 34 bucks to make. The hockey puck one I made cost under 10 bucks, but my hockey puck on has metal sleeves in it. And yes, hockey puck is the same diameter as the original rubber ones.

Here is a photo of the original, steel, and hockey puck ones I made.

 

[b_body_hopeful]

Here is one from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STEERING-CO...-Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-PickUp-/261450425246

 

[ODZKing]

That one doesn't look quite as thick. Wonder if it will work.
The original idea of the rubber was to reduce the the vibration into the steering column. We sort of thrown that theory away now with the metal and hard material pieces.

At the time, mine was up on a lift at a place all apart. I had to get one quickly and didn't have the luxury of experimenting.
Hence I spent the money had it installed and forgot about it. No way I could have done this myself.

 

[b_body_hopeful]

Yeh, I don't know. Suppose to be NOS from Mopar? Who knows. Looks like about 1/2 inch or so. I'd use it.

 

[idrivemopar]

It looks too thin to me, but there is some play in the slip yoke(coupling body) on the steering column so there may be enough room to allow it, but the bolts may then be too long to tighten up.

 

[fanucme]

I've had no luck besides the solid one , I am going to attempt to cast a 'new' one using materials I ordered today and re-using the original steel inserts , I will update this thread as to the attempt

 

[ODZKing]

I saved my old inserts. Don't know why, just did as that was all that was left.
I have them somewhere in my pile of stuff here.

 

[fanucme]

I made this part using the original lugs , the material is a high heat resistant silicone rubber , with a steel outer ring , I made a mold out of steel with dowels to locate the lugs into position while I pour the silicone mix , it takes a few hours to cure.

I have new allen socket bolts coming so I can re assemble to test the prototype ...

Now before you guys jump all over me about just using a simple rag joint ...
The trouble with all the replacement rag joints are that if they rip , you will lose steering , with Mopar design even if it looses its 'rubber' the lugs end up driving each other. you would just end up with lots of slop in the column.

 

[ODZKing]

Outstanding Fanucme. And you are ABSOLUTELY correct. You see the picture of what was left of mine and the car still had steering ... just incredably sloppy.
The rag-joint idea crossed my mind but I decided better of it. I broke down and spent the money but it is good to have an alternative.
More pics when you are done!!!!

 

[fanucme]

well , the silicone media turns out to be too soft , I used the most firm grade of silicone and without the steel ring it wont last long. It should work as well as the original without the ring or I am calling it a failure. I am considering using a polyurethane and giving it another try since I have the mold. I tried silicone first because of the location next to the header tube - but i've read that polyurethane is not very heat tolerant ( fishy smell when heated ? )

idrivemopar - I also have a lathe - i may just go that route unless I learn more about the poly - heck now I have a molding silicone to duplicate plastic parts ! anyone have a wiper switch knob for me to copy ?

 

[idrivemopar]

idrivemopar - I also have a lathe - i may just go that route unless I learn more about the poly - heck now I have a molding silicone to duplicate plastic parts ! anyone have a wiper switch knob for me to copy ?

If you are referring to the steel one I made, it was just a standard round stock I got from a local metal supply shop here locally, no lathe required, just a good drill press.

 

[ODZKing]

I'm not sure about the one I purchased but is it possible it was in fact a hockey puck simply powder coated?
Or would the heating be enough to melt the hard rubber?
I'm sure Bouchillon is not going to give up their secret process but ...
I am fairly certain there are no metal pieces as in the originals. Just wondering!

 

[1ol74charger4me]

If the viet cong could make sandals out of tires, why not this? It would be vulcanized rubber, heat resistant and all it would take is a holesaw. Use the side of the tire, not the tread. Use nutserts for metal reinforcements if you want. Use 2 pieces if thickness is needed. I'd use the metal one. Real cars vibrate and make lotsa noise......

 

[pjm8047]

They only used that crappy design on 72-3 C bodys and 73 B bodys.
I just got one from Bouchillon last summer. It basically is a hockey puck, powder coated but hey, I had to have it.
Here is what was left of mine and the new piece. Your call if you want to try the puck but I have to say the new one is nice. No longer requires the heat shield BTW.

Syracuse crunch nice!!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

thanks God, my 74 got a diff joint!

 

[ODZKing]

I have been discussing this with Nacho over on the 3rd gen forum but thought I'd see if some other opinions came forward.
Here is what I've got.
This just happened while in Carlisle. I noticed on rough road there seemed to be a thump in the column. I just replaced the rag joint and coupler guts a year ago. However the wheel (and Tuff adapter) now seems to pull up maybe a quater to half inch from the actual column case. It didn't after I replaced the parts up until last weekend in PA.
I can see the shaft moving in and out of the coupler now under the hood, so I thought maybe the spring either came off or broke in the coupler. (50 and 54)
However Nacho seems to think the clip in front of the bearing behind the steering wheel is broken of came off. (6, 7, 8, 10)
Any other opinions?