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73 charger rallye edition factory 440.

I got a set of lower control arms with adjusters if you need them let me know
Ok ..I see the adjusters are available online ..
But I'll keep you in mind , thanks ..
 
I have cut torsion bars with a cut off wheel. barely moved But I would still use caution. I was afraid at first but left with little other choice.
 
No problem new ones might be trash too look into them
Good luck
I'm always here just ask
 
Be sure you don't have anything setting under the LCA or in it's path when you separate the ball joint- especially your leg.

I have seen them kick a jack stand across the shop a time or two.
 
Be sure you don't have anything setting under the LCA or in it's path when you separate the ball joint- especially your leg.

I have seen them kick a jack stand across the shop a time or two.
Yep..well aware of what could happen ..
That's why I give this problem a pucker factor of 10..lol..
 
The advantage to a torsion bar in this situation is that you know the arc it will travel in, and you know the distance (degrees) it can go.

Neither of those is a controlled factor with a leaf or coil.
 
Putting the front suspension problem on hold until I can confirm that I can get new replacement torsion bars ...
But in an effort to keep moving forward this weekends task ..well... I'll put it like this ..

Pat is now i ending a relationship with ziebart. ..
Thank you for your years of service, you protected my ride faithfully,
But now it's time to go , no really, you can stop sticking around now..it's not you ,its me ...I'm upgrading to a better look , a younger ,fresher , look..
So please don't make this ugly , I'm sure you can find some other body to cling on .
 
Cool project.

I would slice the sway bars with a grinder then the adjusters without hesitation. They are 43 years old and worn out. Firm feel sells new ones. Or you can get used ones.

If you want to make the frame look pretty, I highly recommend having the body acid dipped and zinc plated. I spent a week cleaning the underside of my body by hand with lackluster results.
 
Cool project.

I would slice the sway bars with a grinder then the adjusters without hesitation. They are 43 years old and worn out. Firm feel sells new ones. Or you can get used ones.

If you want to make the frame look pretty, I highly recommend having the body acid dipped and zinc plated. I spent a week cleaning the underside of my body by hand with lackluster results.

Ok I understand the sway bar part but how exactly would you cut the adjusters out..? ?
I take it you've seen my pics ..there is no weight on my front end ..I have no way to compress the suspension so I can remove the bump stops from under the upper a arm ..the driver adjuster is all the way in so I know there's a lot of pressure there..the pass is half way in ,so it's not as bad pressure wise..

When was the last time you heard from feel firm ? I sent them an email to quote all the stuff I want bur haven't heard back yet.
 
Once you get the swaybars out, you can disconnect the strut bar, shock, and the spindle. Then you can unbolt and push out the lower control arm. Then, with the LCA on the bench, you can cut right through the adjuster with a large grinder. Of course, you have no way to move the car, so you better have a plan for that. A good car rotisserie is worth it weight in gold.

So is your plan to strip it, sandblaster it, then do the bodywork?
 
Not sure what my plan is yet lol..
I bought it mid project. .somebody did a ton of work to it all ready. .body work from the firewall back is just about done ,so I would hate to strip it back down .its the detail stuff they looked over , or maybe it's I'm just picky ..I have to pull the front and rear glass and clean that up ..
I have a body man that builds hot rods , I'm waiting for him to come over and get his opinion .it may go back to the blaster or I may do the detail work that bothers me , send it to him for fit and Finish body work ,take it apart there and have him shoot it .
All depends on what he has to say about the work that's been done ..
 
Well my anxiety over torsion bars was all for not.. (good thing). After confirming with firm feel twice that I can get new bars ..I brought home the torch and 10 minutes later and a small cardboard fire , the bars where cut with no issues. ..
And the k frame is now out of my way
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And...the mopar chassis dolly I bought from bestbuy automotive, auto twirler ..dose not fit the front end of a 73 charger..gonna have to make some adpters on Monday, good thing I'm in the shop on Monday and not out in the field. .
 
Ok..jumped the gun on the dolly.
I can roll it in and out by myself, I hope it gets easier when I get the back set on .
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It's nice having a little hoe around. ...
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Oooh, how much was that dolly?
 
Oooh, how much was that dolly?
300 plus shipping.(my case was 120.00..they said truck ship but it came ups in three boxes ) .you can buy it powder coated. .but why ? It's going to get painted with the car , I just sprayed it with black spray paint .. I got the 8" casters but you can upgrade to 10" ..
Basically I went cheep ..lol...
Bestbuy automotive, was the least expensive set I was able to find...

Now all 4 casters swivel. .Witch may be a problem for me, I will be moving the car by myself. ..so I may have to weld on a steering lock of some sort for the rear.
And only 2 casters have brakes ..
 
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This is how I solved the mounting problem for the 73..
I tapped in a 4x4 to even out the pressure of moving. .but easily removed for working on that part of the rail
 
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