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73 Roadrunner Leaf Springs

scooters318

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Curious what you guys have been doing for leaf spring replacement. I've heard of everything from all u gotta do is drill open a hole to make earlier model springs work to having to replace all hardware to get rid of the rubber isolator pad. Also heard something about the oval front spring eye being a problem.

So main question is what's the best way to go? Thanks
 
Watching this, I just removed the whole rear of my 73 satellite and am about to blast and paint it. I plan on keeping the isolator as I see no reason to remove it, but I was curious about it. Wish i could help ya.
 
You don't have to do anything to the replacement springs but bolt them in. You should always use new U-bolts with new springs. The only thing different is the idolaters which I like myself. However; if you don't want to keep them all you need is 72 and older U-bolts. I run high arch XHD springs with idolaters, 2"lowering blocks and 2 degree pinon angle shims om my 73 Charger.
 

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Where do u get those springs from every place I call they say they don't sell em for 73 b body's
 
So, are you all saying that the 71-72 springs are the same as the springs for the 73-74?
 
curious if you guys have ever dealt with solidbushings.com adapters for converting from isoclamp style to 72 prior springs.

My main question is with the part number P/N: REK001 do you still need to worry about getting new shock plates and if not did you like this setup?

Heres the link to the product page: http://www.solidbushings.com/catalog.html

Heres the email I recieved from them when asked if I needed anything else not included in the their kit.

"With your new springs, you may need to replace the spring locator with the bolt I provide, that will locate the washer for your sway bar/shock plate. The new lower plate goes underneath, so now your sway bar/shock mounts are in the same location as they were before. You get to use the same style oem shock that your car came with. The only thing that changes with my setup is the lack of rubber used in the rear setup."

Does this sound right? Thanks for your time guys.
 
heres a pic of the setup i think. looks like i'll be going with this. 70 bucks for adaptor set and new u bolts and thats it.

IMG00459-20110104-2146.jpg
 
I spoke with Gary about that setup...he said it had everything except the u-bolts. I ended up getting a 71 Runner rear and the older shock plates, so I won't need this setup. I got both my solid k-frame and torsion bar mounts from Gary at Solidbushings.com, and I am very, very happy with the quality and price of the product.
 
So--
If I want to keep the original springs in my 73 charger, but eliminate the isolators do I just need a set of u-bolts and mount plates from an earlier car or is there more required?
 
there is a difference between the 71/72 and 73/74, but it isnt 72 style u bolts, it is the lower leaf spring/shock plate. the 73/74 has a larger diameter center hole compared to the 71/72. To remove the isolator pads altogether correctly, you will need the 71/72 lower spring/shock plate.

*** guess i stated what has already been stated :D ***
 
So--
If I want to keep the original springs in my 73 charger, but eliminate the isolators do I just need a set of u-bolts and mount plates from an earlier car or is there more required?

You just need a washer for the rear end (1 9/16 hole vs 5/8). You can re-use your shock mount, and maybe new u-bolts.

The 73/74 rear iso setup is different than the 75+
 
heres a pic of the setup i think. looks like i'll be going with this. 70 bucks for adaptor set and new u bolts and thats it.

IMG00459-20110104-2146.jpg


This setup is the 75+ B and FJM setup. Just for clarity.
 
Thanks for the info, guys-- I took a spring off my parts car this weekend and it appears to be a simple issue. Also thinking about swapping in an 8-3/4 in the future, so I may wait and remove the isolators as part of that swap.
 
Dennis form firm feel has the parts to swap away from the isolator pads if you need them.

Ralph
 
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