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74 Charger SE. Head lights on/key reminder buzzer does not work properly.

74ChargerSE440

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I have reconnected the multi-buzzer that was hanging loose, but it does not work properly:
- Lights on reminder buzzer: it buzzes constantly when switching the lights on even if the drivers' door is closed and even when driving.
- Key reminder buzzer: does not buzz when the key is in the ignition switch and the driver's door is opened.

How can I fix this?
(The seabelts on buzzer works properly after seating untill the belts are fastened :bananadance:.)

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How
 
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Aside positive signals, both are related to the drivers door jam switch ground.

the key in sig then gets an extra switch for the key into the column also handling the same ground after comimg from door jam switch

stuff to check.
 
Rust forming on the threads of the door jamb? Doesn't take much to disrupt a good contact.
 
Aside positive signals, both are related to the drivers door jam switch ground.

the key in sig then gets an extra switch for the key into the column also handling the same ground after comimg from door jam switch

stuff to check.
Ok, but how to fix... I'm not a wire guy.
 
If you can't figure out Kiwi's simple advice, then you really should find a 'wire guy'....



Aside positive signals, both are related to the drivers door jam switch ground.

the key in sig then gets an extra switch for the key into the column also handling the same ground after comimg from door jam switch

stuff to check.
Uh.....okay....
I know English isn't your strong point but what in holy hell are you talking about.
 
If you can't figure out Kiwi's simple advice, then you really should find a 'wire guy'....




Uh.....okay....
I know English isn't your strong point but what in holy hell are you talking about.
Threads of the door jamb... LOL. You must be a beanhead to figure this out then.
 
A you mean the switch.... So, loosen the door jamb 'switch' clean both the switch and door thread and bolt it back in.
Spring-loaded plunger switches are prone to water ingress, thus rust issues.

The threads on both the bodywork and the switch itself grow rust over time.

Remove switch, clean threads on it plus the bodywork threads, spray some CRC or similar 'Gypsy tears' into the switch, plunge a few times, and clean the contact area on the ends, then re-install.
 
Spring-loaded plunger switches are prone to water ingress, thus rust issues.

The threads on both the bodywork and the switch itself grow rust over time.

Remove switch, clean threads on it plus the bodywork threads, spray some CRC or similar 'Gypsy tears' into the switch, plunge a few times, and clean the contact area on the ends, then re-install.
Thanks. Appreciate your explanation. I can't wait to clean my threads and to see if it will work or not:bananadance:
 
If you can't figure out Kiwi's simple advice, then you really should find a 'wire guy'....




Uh.....okay....
I know English isn't your strong point but what in holy hell are you talking about.
More than a non perfect english I think it was a fast reply at midnight on bed READY TO SLEEP, typing from my iPad LOL. But under normal circunstances I don’t think my english is too terrible LOL

The door jam switch on 74s gets two wires (so, two it has two prongs). One is yellow for the dome light, the other one is black to handle all the driver convenience warning signals.

If the prong feeding the black wire is maybe some loosen ( it’s posible since is hold by a nylon/plastic ring getting damaged) could be getting grounded accidentally still with door closed so will feed the lights on warning signal as far lights are on of course.

this same ground reachs the ign switch key in sensor switch inside the column. But, this switch could be damaged, or maybe disconected down the column. This switch uses two 18 gauge red wires coming out from column and conecting to two black wires on ign switch plug.

if both switches are closed, which would mean door is open and key is IN, the buzzer will buzz

I hope sounds clear
 
If the centre contact of the switch for the two prongs in conical in shape, a ridge can form on the cone surface - this would give an intermittent contact closure.

The switch needs to removed and examined closely......if badly worn on the cone-shaped surface, a new switch should be installed. Remember these switches are not designed to last forever. Chrysler ...along with other manufacturers at the time didn't expect their cars to on the road 50+ years later.

:thumbsup:
 
Ign key in switch/sensor in place. A lever coming out from key cylinder activates this switch when key is inserted



dsc_0118-jpg.jpg
 
More than a non perfect english I think it was a fast reply at midnight on bed READY TO SLEEP, typing from my iPad LOL. But under normal circunstances I don’t think my english is too terrible LOL
Hahaha you know I love ya Nacho! :p
 
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If the centre contact of the switch for the two prongs in conical in shape, a ridge can form on the cone surface - this would give an intermittent contact closure.

The switch needs to removed and examined closely......if badly worn on the cone-shaped surface, a new switch should be installed. Remember these switches are not designed to last forever. Chrysler ...along with other manufacturers at the time didn't expect their cars to on the road 50+ years later.

:thumbsup:
I want to thank you all for the advice. The lights on buzzer works now! One down.
 
Ign key in switch/sensor in place. A lever coming out from key cylinder activates this switch when key is inserted



View attachment 1489148
Thanks for your advice on the lights on buzzer. It works now.

The key buzzer does not work yet, so I have to get the steering wheel off then to figure out what's happening with the lever.

Any additional tips are welcome! Do I need special tools?
 
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Manually operating the plunger works fine for both the lights or buzzer. But I the plunger is a bit short, so when I close the door the lights go off, but strangely enough the buzzer keeps buzzing. I loosened the switch a bit so the plunger comes a bit toward the door. Now it works fine.
 
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