8 3/4 axle chart - the good one Sticky please?

[khryslerkid]

What is a sticky??? like a wedgy but harder to reach?

I have heard the term before...

A "Sticky" is a thread worthy of posting to the top of all threads related to the particular forum. A thread with valuable information on the subject.

For example, open this forum and notice the stickys at the top.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forums/engine-trans-driveline.20/

 

[Bold & Old]

A "Sticky" is a thread worthy of posting to the top of all threads related to the particular forum. A thread with valuable information on the subject.

For example, open this forum and notice the stickys at the top.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forums/engine-trans-driveline.20/

cool.... thanks for the definition update.

 

[khryslerkid]

May I add this link. More info on the 8 3/4

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/875axle.shtml

Since the above link doesn't exist anymore...
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html
Same as MoparMarks posted in post #2

 

[Cranky]

And it should be kept in mind that these charts should be used as a guide and are not gospel. The measurement tolerance is 1/4" and sometimes more. I've found several over the years that were within 1/2" in the length.....but the spring pads are usually much better.

 

[Dipstick]

1/4" or 1/2" tolerance? Sorry, I gotta call BS on that. If an axle was that far off, it wouldn't fit in the housing and if the housing was that far off the axle wouldn't fit.

If your measurement is that far off, you're misidentifying the part.

 

[rrTor-Red]

I think this is the correct one. If posted before, sorry

 

[khryslerkid]

I think this is the correct one. If posted before, sorry

View attachment 1087340

This chart doesn't show 1962 to 1967 that there is three different widths. Too many incomplete or wrong info charts out there. That's why I posted the correct one as posted earlier in post #2.

 

[Dipstick]

The list in post #2 is close to dead on, the only discrepancy that I've found is the 30" axle shaft. It lists a 30" axle and a 29 31/32" axle but there is only the 29 31/32" axle used on the C & E-body and truck. All even have the same part number. The error comes about because of the method of measuring.

 

[wagonman]

As a Side note , the a-body 8 3/4 was a direct bolt in for the 66-67 Chevy Nova and wagon. Better than the 10 bolt and hence their attrition. Start looking under old Novas Ya.

 

[Wyatt]

Thank you, 'moparmarks'!

So, per moparmarks, here's what I'm looking at:

Rear end widths, drum-to-drum: '64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
Housing widths, flange to flange: '64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)

 

[Jim’s Dodge]

3/4" axle shaft lengths measured from the tip of the splined end
to the outside of the flange:
A BODY
'66-'72= 27 11/16"
B BODY
'65-'67= 28 7/8"
'68-'70= 29 3/16"
'71-'74= 30 5/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"
C BODY
'65-'69= 30"
'70-'71= 30 5/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 31 21/64" (and '69 wagon)

IMPERIAL (Large Bolt Pattern)
'65-'66= 30 1/8"
'67-'69= 30 5/16"
'70-'71= 29"
'72-'73= 31 7/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 29 31/32"
A100
'65-'70= 30"
D100
'65-'71= 31 1/8"
'72-'74= 31 21/64

Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:
A BODY
'66-'72= 57 1/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 59 1/2"
'68-'70= 60 1/8"
'71-'74= 63"
'71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
C BODY
'65-'69= 61.75"
'70-'71= 63.0" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 64 3/8" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 61 15/16"
'67-'69= 62 5/16"
'70-'71= 59 3/4"
'72-'73= 64 9/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 61 5/8"
A100
'65-'70= 61 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 63 15/16"
'72-'74= 64 3/8"



Spring perch widths (center-to-center)
A BODY
'66-73= 43"
B BODY
'62-'70= 44"
'71-'74= 47.3"
C BODY
'65-'73= 46"
E BODY
'70-'74= 46"


Housing widths, flange to flange
A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"
E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"
A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"

- - - Updated - - -

Copy and save it as a document in your computer.

New guy here. What code tells me I have the Dana rear end versus the 8.75? I have premier 1967 Coronet with 383, 727, and want to replace brake lines but need to know answer above to order correct lines.

 

[YY1]

95% 8 3/4.

Dana has a cover, 8 3/4 has a chunk.

 

[RemCharger]

New guy here. What code tells me I have the Dana rear end versus the 8.75? I have premier 1967 Coronet with 383, 727, and want to replace brake lines but need to know answer above to order correct lines.

If it was an R/T 4 speed it would have a Dana and a 68 under the AX on the fender tag. Yours likely has a 4. Maybe a 2

 

[Cranky]

New guy here. What code tells me I have the Dana rear end versus the 8.75? I have premier 1967 Coronet with 383, 727, and want to replace brake lines but need to know answer above to order correct lines.

If no one has 'added' a Dana 60 then it's most likely an 8 3/4 but a pic is worth a 1000 words.

 

[Cranky]

1/4" or 1/2" tolerance? Sorry, I gotta call BS on that. If an axle was that far off, it wouldn't fit in the housing and if the housing was that far off the axle wouldn't fit.

You can call BS all you want as I'm not gonna stop you. I just know what I've found messing with cars since the late 60's. Have also built lots of rear ends over the years and some of the stuff I've found made me scratch my head a lot. Did someone swap rear ends or were they factory 'use what's on the shelf' kinda stuff? I know ChryCo did that sort of building. Parted a lot of cars in the mid to late 70's and into the 80's and it wasn't hard to see if a car still had the original rear end or not. How bout a 15x8" wheel with a 275-60 on it fitting the LR of a 71 Cuda but not the RR? The car was never wrecked either and checked it for square.

Had 2 70 Challengers that had never been wrecked and the NOS rear finish/trim would fit one nicely but it was over 1/8" too long for the other?? The cars were built at different plants. How bout a 65 Mustang that had all the V8 underpinnings including 5 lug wheels? Yup, found one of them in the early 70's....no big deal you ask? The car came from the factory with a 6! Never could find anyone that could confirm a 6 cylinder Mustang that had the option of a 'heavy duty package'.....the car even sat higher than a normal 6 banger car. So it's not a big deal if you call BS on stuff....sheet happens and nutin is 100% especially when it comes to cars.

 

[dvw]

I had a 1979 Aspen R/T (F-body) w/E58 option Police 360. The 8 1/4 2.72 rear end didn't help it's performance..I bought a 4 speed 73 340 Dart from a junkyard (yeah, I know) and the 8 3/4 housing and axles-everything as an assembly bolted right in to the F body! Even the pins on the perches lined up with the holes in the leaf springs. I later swapped in a chunk from a Charger when the ring and pinion gear broke. I just had to get a "2-way" U-joint to match up the driveshaft's smaller caps and the chunk's larger ones.
The point is that the 73 A-body 8 3/4 fit the 79 F-body with no modifications.

I made the 8 1/4" to 8 3/4" F body swap years ago. Still own the car today. I used a 68 B body housing and stock axles. The factory backing plates and drums from the 8 1/4" The overall width was 3/4" wider. The spring isolator system was replaced with stock 68 B body stuff. The center to center perch dimension on an F body is 44.44", on an a B body 44". So the springs had to be pulled in a touch. Worked without issue. Later on I narrowed the housing to A body width. Moved the front hangers flush to the rail. Moved the rear shackle mounts in and forward by drilling new holes in the rear rail. Took a section out of the front of the inner wheelhouse that started 3 1/2" wide at the bottom then tapering to zero about 10" up. Then pushed the section inward and rewelded it together. This allows 3 1/2" back space 15x10 315/60x15 or 28.5Wx15 tires to clear at normal ride height. Rear seat still fits as well, barely.
Doug