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8 3/4 Center Section H.P Ratings / Aluminum

I do realize that a Dana or a 9" is most likely in my Future, but as I try to lighten the car I cant help and think how heavy this Dam Dana is, I pulled one out of a 78 3/4 Ton Dodge truck and this thing weigh's a ton, obviously it'll lighten up once all the truck stuff is removed but How Much?? anyone Ever weighed one before?? also I already bought the
"Moser Fab 8.75" and have high hopes with Mark Williams Pro Gears, and Also Now offering Service's for the 8 3/4 that just 2 years ago wasn't available, call me Crazy I guess ?? Lol

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LMAO just trying to do what they say cant be Done !!
When a rear end breaks, it shocks the whole drive line and usually messes up the transmission. That's a heck of a gamble.

I do realize that a Dana or a 9" is most likely in my Future, but as I try to lighten the car I cant help and think how heavy this Dam Dana is, I pulled one out of a 78 3/4 Ton Dodge truck and this thing weigh's a ton, obviously it'll lighten up once all the truck stuff is removed but How Much?? anyone Ever weighed one before?? also I already bought the
"Moser Fab 8.75" and have high hopes with Mark Williams Pro Gears, and Also Now offering Service's for the 8 3/4 that just 2 years ago wasn't available, call me Crazy I guess ?? Lol
Swapped out a stock E body 8 3/4 for a B body Dana 60. It was 50 lbs difference but the Dana had a spool vs the 8 3/4 Power Lock. Did you weigh the Fab 8 3/4 once it was totally dressed?
 
I think the S60 is lighter than a standard Dana 60? Also, how much weight does all the bracing add to the 8-3/4"?
 
I think the S60 is lighter than a standard Dana 60? Also, how much weight does all the bracing add to the 8-3/4"?
Based on how it's dressed out would determine final weight and could probably find out with a phone call
 
My Dana with ladder bar brackets, shock brackets. 4.10, steel spool, Will Woods is 165lbs. My bet is a Dana with a spool doesn't weigh much different than a 8 3/4 with a sure grip.
Doug
 
My understanding was that most of the problems with the 8 3/4 are do to the weak thin wall housing and if you ever really looked at one you'll see that it's actually 2 pieces put together like a clam shell. Now i'm sure you could break the gears on their own but is it arguable that the extra stress on the internals from axle deflection could be the root cause of the failure. Has anyone seen a Fab 8.75 housing rear break before? Cause I've not seen one! Not saying a Dana isn't the ultimate way to go but like me you already have a good starting point with that fad 8.75 housing.
 
My understanding was that most of the problems with the 8 3/4 are do to the weak thin wall housing and if you ever really looked at one you'll see that it's actually 2 pieces put together like a clam shell. Now i'm sure you could break the gears on their own but is it arguable that the extra stress on the internals from axle deflection could be the root cause of the failure. Has anyone seen a Fab 8.75 housing rear break before? Cause I've not seen one! Not saying a Dana isn't the ultimate way to go but like me you already have a good starting point with that fad 8.75 housing.
Good point, you’re definitely takin all the right steps using a fab housing and stronger internals. I think the factor that plays into how long it will hold up the most will be the weight of the car.
 
Have you contacted Moser? I'd think they'ed have some thoughts about what that Fab 8.75 would/could handle? I'd be interested to here from them seeing how they sell both 8 3/4 and Dana stuff. Should be unbiased IMO.
 
I still use an old 8 3/4 with all the good internals, since '72 and it seems to work fine. My GTX 60 fts. in low 1.40's and has run a best of 10.34, carrying the front wheels. Am I lucky, maybe.
 
I still use an old 8 3/4 with all the good internals, since '72 and it seems to work fine. My GTX 60 fts. in low 1.40's and has run a best of 10.34, carrying the front wheels. Am I lucky, maybe.

You sure as hell make me feel better. :thankyou:
 
If you're starting from scratch I'd just start with a
Dana-60 or even better yet an S-60 from Strange Engineering

For the $$$ spent, might as well go with a Dana-60
after all is said & done...


for a near destructible best parts available 8.750" rear
An alum. MP 742 carrier is $1000+
a trussed Fab carrier housing is $800+
a spool is $200
gears are $180- $250 depending on what brand, style or what ratio
or a diff. is $450-$800, depending on what type or who's
axles are $200 ea. or more depending on who's
green bearings etc. are $100+ {?}
it can get to well over $3000 before brakes

about the same $$$ or more than a S-60 or Dana-60 race ready

I had a 8.750" solid mounted in a old altered
solid mounted they are abused severely,
a car/combo that had a 1500+hp blown alky combo,
among a bunch of different blown or injected engine SB & BB combos,
albeit light car, org. built to have it weight with driver come
in at 1800lbs wet, I was concerned about weight
anyway it was trussed, had thicker 0.250" {x 3" ?} thick tubes,
full floater alum./steel ends {much like a truck Dana-60 has},
org. had Lenco full floater axles, after I broke one
I found some special "astroloy" materials {spelling ?} axles,
that was my weak point
I had a machinist I knew cut & spline some axles to fit my needs
it had either Wilwood or Baer Brakes {I can't remember which}
anyway;
It went 1.0 60fts or better regularly, ran hi 6's in the 1/4 @ 190+
both with an auto with a trans-brake 5500+ stall converters
& a Crower slipper clutch hard launched with a 3 speed Lenco
most of the rear end race components were from Lenco back then too...
I added some ballast, an onboard starter, a big battery, seat padding
& fire system 2 bottles etc.
it ended up being over 2200 lbs, & 2500 lbs with a Mastodon Hemi,
to meat weight per ci requirements & it lived very well, but still a light car...
Never broke the gears, bearings or spool or anything inside the carrier,
for well over a decade, just checked &/or replaced gears/bearings
& wear regularly, mostly just a check a couple times a season...
I would put about 120-150 runs a year...
I did break an axle before, I can't remember the spline count or size
I want to say 35 spline on the carrier side & 18 {?} on the floater side
I went to the fancy dancy extremely tough astroloy {spelling ?} special
light stronger material NASA used at the time, for shafting materials,
for my axles, that problem was solved...
Re-inspected regularly...

Now;
If I had to do it all over again I'd have done a Dana
not worry about the extra 50 {?} or so Lbs,
easier to find race oriented type parts for too

IMO The flex in the housing or bending/twisting axle tubes
is probably the biggest killer, in an 8.750"
replace the crush sleeve with a proper sized/material
machined spacer IMO is a good Idea too,
if you stick with a 8.750" ring & pinion

I went 8.56 @ 158 on 300 shot of N20 in a 3520# 68 RR
with a 8.750", a 742 Nodular carrier 1st then a 742 Alum. Carrier
the car was a 315 drag radial car, with Calvert CalTracs
for over 10 years it lasted being abused with 700+ hp or more
ran 9.70 N/A in street trim & it lived just fine,
it also had many of the same type parts as listed above

Like I said before If I was to do it again I'd go with a S-60 now


I hope some of that helps

novel complete...

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Novel complete.....wall of text....LOL! I love it!
 
I'm running an 8 3/4 I actually bought from Mike Gaines. When I bought it I wasn't planning on making the power I am now but I think I've given it a fighting chance. Is a S60 in the future? maybe but for now the 8 3/4 is still in there.

Narrowed 8"
Moser axles
4.10 gears
Detroit Locker
Back and Top Braced
Willwood disc's

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Glad to see my 8 3/4 found a loving home
GOOD JOB !!!!
 
Well, I guess they don't hold up to 6k launches in a 3300 lb car very well lol
 
I still use an old 8 3/4 with all the good internals, since '72 and it seems to work fine. My GTX 60 fts. in low 1.40's and has run a best of 10.34, carrying the front wheels. Am I lucky, maybe.

Bob, what exactly have you done to beef up your 8-3/4? You run a transbrake too, if I’m not mistaken, correct?
 
Bob, what exactly have you done to beef up your 8-3/4? You run a transbrake too, if I’m not mistaken, correct?
We've run an 8 3/4 with 4.56 gears in our N/SS '63 Plymouth for years (20). We've broken it twice. Once at the end of the track when I dumped the throttle to take the stripe, and once when leaving the line. Car 60-foots in the low 1.50's at 3700 lbs. It's an automatic with a Dynamic 9.5" converter on 9" slicks. My feelings about the life expectancy are more related to pinion angle, or the lack of good pinion angle. If running SS springs, even with wedges to fix the said angle...the rear end sees a flux of many degrees during a pass. We recently put Cal Trac Bars and Split Mono Leafs on it and the angle changes very little during a pass. I think it will break again, but for my budget, I'm taking the chance. By the way, both times the rear broke, we not only hurt the sprag, but we also broke our rare, '65 only tail shaft! Both breaks put us out of competition for the day. SMDH
 
...as a side note, and I'm not proud to say this...I ran the most recent 8 3/4 for 15 passes. It was whining the entire time. I thought it was a pinion bearing. Finally I put it on stands and removed the pig. Found out there wasn't a drop of oil in the housing! Bad on me for sure, and no pointing fingers. Cost a bunch to repair it, but that SOB didn't break!
 
...as a side note, and I'm not proud to say this...I ran the most recent 8 3/4 for 15 passes. It was whining the entire time. I thought it was a pinion bearing. Finally I put it on stands and removed the pig. Found out there wasn't a drop of oil in the housing! Bad on me for sure, and no pointing fingers. Cost a bunch to repair it, but that SOB didn't break!
What are your times and speed?
 
10.90's at 123 or so. Best pass was 10.81 @ 125.
 
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