8 3/4 housing drain

[#41]

Just curious, what type of use are your cars seeing requiring a diff cooler?

Never had an issue with 83/4 rears but the occasional pinion, or axle seal.

Silver State Challenge (road race).

 

[DPeltz]

Thanks!! Figured it was something along those lines. Sounds like fun.

 

[j-c-c-62]

And I have a lot exhaust in the vicinity and mostly I will be lastly getting a floor pan/flat floor which will restrict normal air flow.
Better safe than sorry. My home track is Sebring, its fast, lots of full throttle, and of course it's always hot.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Silver State Challenge (road race).

Bit of insurance. I have never had one with a heating problem. Forty mile runs above 130. Is it a requirement?

 

[j-c-c-62]

The rear end consumes/wastes a lot of energy, which turns mostly into heat, my thinking is constant full throttle applications from any lower speeds are the worst environments, because 130mph is itself a great cooling effect. Nobody should ever touch bare handed a rear end housing immediately following a multi lap stint or after 40 miles at elevated speed.

Member #41, the internal baffles are my idea, I am using big ford sealed bearings, requires no oil, and the baffles have, unpictured, restricted drain back openings.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Trans is next. I bought a drain plug kit for that

I usually put mine low/side of the pans (especially on lowered cars) The only snag I've run into is take a good look what's behind where you put the drain plug in. I had to patch & re-drill pan once. Doh! B&M sells a good quality drain plug that's magnetic

 

[#41]

The rear end consumes/wastes a lot of energy, which turns mostly into heat, my thinking is constant full throttle applications from any lower speeds are the worst environments, because 130mph is itself a great cooling effect. Nobody should ever touch bare handed a rear end housing immediately following a multi lap stint or after 40 miles at elevated speed.

Member #41, the internal baffles are my idea, I am using big ford sealed bearings, requires no oil, and the baffles have, unpictured, restricted drain back openings.

Thanks for the reply . Very interesting.

For me, there is not much cooling effect on the axle when you are running a 100 degree day and have a large front spoiler to reduce drag and lift. The sucker gets hot without a cooler.

Bit of insurance. I have never had one with a heating problem. Forty mile runs above 130. Is it a requirement?

The Silver State is 90 miles and the axle does get quite warm. Imagine the heat generated from 40 minutes at 130-165 mph. I'm not sure I could say 100% a cooler is necessary, but it is definitely insurance.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Thanks for the reply . Very interesting.

For me, there is not much cooling effect on the axle when you are running a 100 degree day and have a large front spoiler to reduce drag and lift. The sucker gets hot without a cooler.



The Silver State is 90 miles and the axle does get quite warm. Imagine the heat generated from 40 minutes at 130-165 mph. I'm not sure I could say 100% a cooler is necessary, but it is definitely insurance.

You have been doing the Silver State for a few years now. You still using the same car?

 

[j-c-c-62]

Let's do the math back of the napkin ballpark style. Say we have 400 wheel horsepower, estimate 20% total drivetrain loss, in direct in trans, maybe 2%, tires 8%, 10% Rear end, so
a 48 Hp loss (assuming 480hp at the FW). 48x754 (watts per HP)= 36,192 Watts from a 100% efficient mechanical heater, effectively. It should be rather warm.
Since rear axle assembly weighs nearly 200lbs, it will take time for it to reach a stable temp, and likely only a few minutes of running is of no concern at any HP level, like 1/4 mile, autocross, getting groceries, etc.

 

[#41]

You have been doing the Silver State for a few years now. You still using the same car?

Well, kind of.... I still have the car but have not run for awhile. Life!

 

[Bird 426]

I have 1/8" drain plugs in both of my cars for years and have never had an issue. No reinforcement or doubler. So much better than creating a mess, put a small magnet in there if you want to grab metal shavings.

 

[T Brashears]

Put a drain in mine when I changed gears last year.

 

[BigFlo]

I did the 1/8” drain plug in mine as well, (at the center bottom) when I was installing a new 3rd section. The housing gives plenty of meat to hold the plug. No concern for interference with internals. Wrapped plug with Teflon tape. It just needs to be snugged up - not cranked - to seal. So far, so good.

 

[Rjvb3]

I wanted a drain too, but didn't want to lose the area for jacking purposes. Welded in a section of extra axle tube. Protects the welded in bung and acts as a solid jack point

 

[supergluehero]

Here's a better picture of mine after fixing the leak.

 

[Chargerkiddave]

I wanted a drain too, but didn't want to lose the area for jacking purposes. Welded in a section of extra axle tube. Protects the welded in bung and acts as a solid jack point

View attachment 1609160

That's some interesting hotroddin there...did you paint it all black?

 

[Rjvb3]

That's some interesting hotroddin there...did you paint it all black?

Yea, that was just in the mock up. Couldn't find any of the finished product

 

[Mebsuta]

I used a siphon pump when I've done mine the last couple of times.

Same.