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8.75 axle question

1967coronet

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2 yrs ago I was replacing rear brakes and found my right side axle had some vertical movement aprox 1/8 of a inch with the drum off.
axle end play was to loose also but no leaks or noise.
So I took the safe route pulled both axles and had new oem style tapered bearings pressed on.
I installed new seals and flange gaskets, packed the new bearings with wheel bearing grease with a gun and needle tip , button / spacer was / is still in the sure grip. I stuck the left side in axle was lubed to keep the seal safe, dead blow seated the left side and tightend it up. Backed off the adjuster on right side and installed it the same way dead blow hammer wack put bolts in and set the end play at .010 ,
had to back off one notch to get the keeper in a slot.

Now 2 yrs later I am checking rear brakes & pull the drums my vertical movement is back on the right side aprox 1/8 mabey a touch more , checked the end play its right at .018 on the dial, no leaks or noise.
Is this vertical movement common after run in / breakin on the bearings or am I missing something and need to repack and reset everything again ?
 
If you adjust it back to .010 or a bit less, how much vertical do you have? But I'm thinking that 1/8" up and down is a bit much even for .018.......
 
Thanks for the fast reply cranky, I will reset it in the morning and check. with only 2 yrs and aprox 2,000 miles do you thing I should pull the right side out and repack that bearing also or just reset it as it is ?
I did do a good job grease packing the 1st time.
 
I would just reset as is, maybe shoot for .008-.010.
 
I always start at .000" it widens up with use.
Doug
 
Thanks guys, I will reset and check the up and down play today.
 
You need to spend some time setting the end play on those bearings. I go side to side numerous times wacking the axles with a dead blow, cranking the adjuster in, turning the axles forward and back until it gets tough to turn the axles. After that, I put the dial indicator on and back off until there is some play in the proper range then do the wack and axle turn some more, check the indicator again[ remove it while you are thumping] and either stop because I'm in range or do it some more. It takes more than one round of thumping to get the bearings set. Also, did you put the lock tab back on?
 
Thanks ckessel, yep I was going back and forth like I was playing musical chairs with a dead hammer and rotating the axles. Yep lock tab is on.
dvw thought mabey a dead zero and let them wear in, since they already have aprox 2000 miles on them I got the end play set at .005 now
Might be a little snug but it did help the vertical movement, what was aprox 1/8 inch of up and down play is now .030
Hard to figure that just .013 of adjustment on end play would cure the up down slack or at least help a lot.
I will keep a ear on things and pull the right wheel & drum after a 100 miles or so and recheck the vertical movement and end play.
If it comes back I will figure I have a crap bearing and take things apart but with no prev noise or leaks I am betting things will be ok.

Thanks again guys for the replies and advice.
 
cdr, Its a 742 case 3:23 ratio, clutch pack set up.
 
Sounds like if you have that much vertical play, the bearings didn't seat during the whack and rotate session. I wonder if the bearing adjuster, not you but the one on the axle, is dorked up. Another possibility: when you had the bearings swapped out on the axles, did you do it or did you sub it out? The reason I'm asking is maybe the axles you have are not for your car but maybe a c, e or truck/van application and are longer?
 
The A axles would be way too short, C and E would be way too long.
 
I pulled the axles ckessel and cut off the old bearings. Got the new set through napa here local and had them pressed on at a local shop we trade work with.
We are a body shop , he's a mechanic, old dog like me LOL , small town, not a stop light in the county. Im sure they were my original axles,
Bearings were seated to the same spot as the old set.
Only thing I can think of since the old set had the same problem is perhaps they ran loose to long and messed up the housing end dia. on the right side and the whole dang bearing, races and all are moving up and down ? May have to get .030 of shim stock ?
Then I question that since resetting up the end play helped take out some of the vertical movement.
Funny deal, I was just switching wheels out and thought I would pop a drum and look the brakes over this spring . I thought I had this deal covered 2 yrs back.
Also I think the adjuster ring is good, I can take it clear down tight to zero end play and still have the .030 up and down , back it off .005 and its were it is now.
 
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Only thing I can think of since the old set had the same problem is perhaps they ran loose to long and messed up the housing end dia. on the right side and the whole dang bearing, races and all are moving up and down ? May have to get .030 of shim stock ?
Might be off the wall, but yeah, sounds like the I.D. in the housing end has wear. Outside bearing fit isn't tight, but should be closer...might look at .010 shim(per side), that would give you .020 tighter, leaving .010 loose.

Don't know if they can be had these days, but used to be able to get ss repair sleeves for that type thing.
 
Yep miller, I am starting to think that may be what is going on.
I will find out this weekend I will pull both sides and check the dia. I know the left side is good because it fits fine with no vertical play.
So I will have a good measurement to compare the right side to. I will pick up some shim stock in .010. If nothing else it will be a good way to check it and narrow down the problem.
I remember my dad used to shim mains and rods in straight 6s and it seemed to hold up fine.

I know its a band aid but if that's the problem it will get me by until a run down a housing or get mine corrected with a insert ect.
Thanks.
 
Yeah, kinda oddball how some of these old parts can wear. Pretty much have to replace that housing end (lol). But, nothing wrong with a good shim to get things back to snuff.
 
It looks like you need to either come up with another housing or have the housing ends replaced. Time to hit up the Mopar brethren and put the word out with requests.
 
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