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93 Dodge Ram 250

Donny

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:58 PM
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
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Location
North East San Antonio TX
Sometimes I forget why I am not wrenching on my GTX and Satellite, it's because this, and a 49 Chevy are taking all my time, AND some side media blasting jobs that come in here and there!

The 93 Dodge is a highly optioned truck, it belongs to my ex bro-in law, he bought it new, and, has had it in Alaska. So, it had its share of rust and rot, and paint peeling.

When he gave me the missive last October of "Rust Eradication and Paint Peeling" repair, well, that's a near total restoration! The wheel arches had flares on them from Dodge, and 3 of the 4 had rust forming, and totally penetrated the bed and one fender whereas there is (was) holes.

I started on the bed first, put it in my rotisserie #1, nothing like a heavy body piece like this on the rotisserie! Blasted it, primed it in self etch, fixed the rotted wheel arches, and two cross member beams that also were rotted. Put it in white epoxy primer, and it's at the bodyman right now getting final prep for paint.

I blasted the rear frame areas, and put self etch down on the frame. The cab mounts (front) were totally compromised with rust, and were absolutely junk. I cut 'em out, and fabricated some replacement mounts, go to the dealer to source some new cab mount bushings; MOPAR discontinued them, so, PST make a complete cab bushing kit and radiator core support bushings which I bought (should be here tomorrow) made of Polyurethane. The cab floors are mostly rotted out, the rocker panels are junk too. The doors are pristine as is the hood and radiator support. Media blasted them all anyways. The inner fenders were starting to rot away.

The owner was not prepared for the extensive task he undertook. We are still trying to do it all for 12K or under, but...you know how that goes!

Instead of populating here the original pics...they already are on my site, so, go here and see them, cheers! http://www.drblast.com/index.php?id=107
 
The flat sides of this truck makes is very easy to block it down! Spies Hekker paint, 1 gal and 1 gal clear with all activators and hardeners is just over $1000.00. I've used this stuff in Germany, it was more expensive than the Lesonal stuff I used and liked while over there. I'm working on fitting the rockers and floor panels now, the mount/bushings should get here today, lets hope!
 
I know it's not a B Body, but, it's a MOPAR, and I won't ask if its ok to post some Chevelle pics etc, here, hehehaha!

After weighing this and that on this truck, I have decided to go all the way. Let me explain. As you can see (if you looked) the general status of this vehicle.

I finished fitting in, and welding in the new floor pans, sectioned them in, and butt welded them in, got the welds ground down etc. Also, the new front cab mounts were completely shot and rusted beyond repair, which I had to fabricate new ones from scratch, and then weld them in, then, set them into the floor underside junction to maintain the strength and integrity, and of course look appealing too!

For a few days I've been weighing how to remove or treat the rust on the front frame rail sections. But, having an engine, transmission, transfer case, drive train, exhaust system, wiring harness, fuel lines, etc in the way prevents me from getting a good media blast stream in there to get rid of the rust, crud, old undercoating, etc. I weighed the route of Rust Bullet, but, having old undercoating there that's starting to flake off just sounded like a labor-intensive route and never getting it 100% to my personal standard I demand from myself.

So, today, I said it's all coming out, all of it! So, early next week, I'll have a frame, with a cab on this frame with no engine, and guts, I will have some fabricated frame end dollies on new caster wheels I bought today to handle this weight, both front and rear axle assembly's are also coming out. Evaluating everything, taking it apart is a few less hours than if I went the Rust Bullet route, but, the end state will be far superior and excellent.

When I was in the Army in Korea, we had a boss who demanded to be be 'Wowed' and impressed. I learned then and there that having a jaw-dropping experience often is priceless and worth it on so many levels! Plus, having all this stuff out, I can blast the entire underside of the cab, front frame rails, front and rear Dana axle's with leaf springs, then I can put some wash primer, then epoxy. I talked with the painter and he said he has NO objection to not having the drivetrain installed, as he said it comes out way better too. So, after careful analysis and weighing the pros and cons I decided to go this route. What does the owner say? I have not told him, but, he won't care, he just wants it 'right' and 'fixed'.

So, in my removal of 'stuff' this afternoon, the mid exhaust pipe was all rusted out, and nearly failing, the U-Joints were stiff, which I will replace them all, but, this old truck is very simple, very well-built, and very stout, but man, rust SUCKS! Plus, the oil pan needs some attention, rust has really set in on this item, I don't want to sand/grind on it, but, where to get a new oil pan for a 12v Cummins? Almost everything on this truck has been discontinued and can't be located. Plus, having the engine out I remove the very real risk of getting blasting media in items like the Turbocharger, even though covering, taping, blocking everything up NEVER prevents that darn media from getting in there. My dryer at home ALWAYS has little bits of plastic blasting media in the lint trap, so, this whole decision making process really should have been a no-brainer! :)
 
Here's one of the cab mounts before and after media blasting, and the newly fabricated from scratch I created.
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i can't believe there is that much rust on a 93.the person must have done some serious mud runnin.
 
Salty Alaska roads roadrunnerman! The owner also can't believe how much rust was on it too! Trust me, we've danced a bit when it comes to invoice time, etc, but, he's tracking, just another case of a guy thinking he knows how much he wants it to cost, but, what it actually DOES cost are two different numbers!
 
Jealous, 1st gen Club Cab Cummins!
In my mind that is the perfect truck to go all out on. Only way it could be better is have a 5spd. Glad to see your taking the time to do it right.
Replace that truck with a new one would be 40 grand.
 
This is a $31K truck in 1993, I have the invoice! To replace it today, more like $55K! This truck only has 100K miles, engine comes out tomorrow, tranny, and txfer case after that, pics tomorrow.
 
Got the Cummins engine out with no issues at all, but man, this thing is HUGE and HEAVY! I bought a new 1000 lb engine stand, had to make extension pieces to connect to the stand to allow it to cover the bell housing circumference, started to ease pressure off the engine hoist and transfer weight to the engine stand; the stand started to collapse, but, I was only watching the flywheel for damages; stopped the weight transfer as the stand was utterly inadequate for this Cummins powerplant! Currently, the engine is on 4 jack stands, with some of the weight still maintained in the hoist. It will likely remain in this configuration sans the engine hoist as I don't need to move this beast around; just blast the frame/cab, put in self etch, then epoxy, then the frame in chassis black, then the set up goes to the painter!
 
I have no idea why flywheel was tagged as a link, I didn't do this. I modified the new engine stand to handle the big Cummins today. Lengthened it 5 inches, and widened the front set of wheels by 5 inches. welded two 2" sq. tube 18 inches in length across the lengthened center arm to provide rear and front support for this massive powerplant. These are all tasks that need to be done to reach my objective(s), I wish these tasks didn't take so long to do, but, I can't have a Cummins engine tip over, collapse the stand, or be 'cheap' in anyway. Good thing is the newly modified stand handles 100% of the engine weight, just need to weld on a few braces Tuesday, then, push it in the corner, cover it up, blast the remaining truck, prime it, chassis black the frame, then, off to the painter -- can't get there soon enough it seems like sometimes!

Anyone here think I can sell this stand on CL? I sure will try to when I'm done!
 
As always...top notch work Donny. Looks like the wicked witch of the north cursed one hell of a cancerous spell on that poor Dodge. Keep the pic's a coming.
 
Thanks Prop! Appreciate the good words! I finished up the engine stand today, its a beast, it hold the Cummins with NO problem, pushed it in the corner with ease; all that work just to push it a few feet and properly store it too!

I lifted to truck off the Transmission and Transfer case today! Set jack stands under it on all 4 corners, loosened all 6 bolts off the crossmember, and lifted the truck off it! Then used a spine-type hoist with 2 chains off each end to lift it up complete with Crossmember as one unit, now, I'm thinking I need another engine stand to hold this assembly up so I can clean it, and service it as needed, but won't need to make tons of modifications to it like the one to hold the Cummins engine, however I may need to lengthen it a bit as this is a large and long unit.

I also made 4 poles on the near corners of the frame with large heavy duty casters on it so I can roll it puppy around -- good lord, all this prep work just to do the deed is insane!
 
Lots of hard work, Looks like, sounds like a great truck in the making!
 
Transmission and Transfer case I just left in place, and lifted the truck off it! LOL!
The underside is now nearly ready to media blast, and this poor HF engine stand on sale is getting a work out! The bell housing area is too big for the allowable area the engine stand gives, so, who needs to rotate this beast anyways?
 
you're right donny,that engine does look like a monster.No wonder your stand wanted to bend.I can honestly say i've never seen a trans that long,i don't think they're even that long on my semi.Hope that was the hardest of the disassembly for you and everything else goes smooth.I always admire the challenges that you never back down from.
 
It is long, looks like a 727 family, but its a 4 spd, and the transfer case is mounted to the end of it. Speaking of this assembly, any ideas on how to plug the oil lines so cleaning solvents don't get into it when I clean it up?
 
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