A833 slips out of first gear.

[Cornpatch MO]

4 speed inspected without tear down and appears OK. Pilot bearing fits the input shaft good. Input shaft bearing good. All clutch linkage is correct and ex. condition. Bell house run-out is OK. New, long handle, Hurst shifter (1964 Dodge) Tranny is quiet with no vibrations. When I start out in 1st gear, I have to lightly hold the shifter in gear or it will slip out. As long as I am accelerating or de- celerating, It stays in gear. If I am stopped , with it in 1st gear , the shifter will go to neutral with very light 1 finger pressure. It just doesn't seem to " click " all the way into gear like the other gears. Shifter levers have been checked for lining up in neutral . ....Any help appreciated...................................MO

 

[Daves69]

Are you against an adjustable stop in 1st?
Sometimes 1 turn longer/shorter rod length can make a big difference.
The neutral pin lineup is what I use to start, then fine tune from there.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Are you against an adjustable stop in 1st?
Sometimes 1 turn longer/shorter rod length can make a big difference.
The neutral pin lineup is what I use to start, then fine tune from there.

I don't think 1st gear has an adjustable stop, just 2nd and third? Maybe I should take the shift rod off and see if the trans lever will move a little further. Thanks..............................MO

 

[Detroit Iron]

Most likely no adjustment can fix this. Gotta tear in to it. Input bearings need to be replaced and possibly the gear. Jamie at Passon Performance can sell you the parts and provide guidance.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm no transmission expert, but mine does this same thing in 2nd gear & I've always thought it was a worn synchronizer.

I think what Dave69 is referring to is aligning the shifter linkage. On my '70 Hurst linkage, if you look at the linkage itself (not the shift arms) & the transmission is in neutral, the linkage "plates" all have about a 1" notch on the bottom side. If the linkage is adjusted properly, all of those notches will line up. I think factory service manuals show you how to make a "shim" to fit inside the linkage plate slots, but you can eyeball them.

If you're idea that 1st gear isn't "clicked in" like the other gears, then you might find the 1st/2nd shifter plate's slot a little more towards the 2nd gear side, if that makes any sense.

 

[Daves69]

IMO, The shifter gate line up is not necessarily the optimal line up for the trans. Tolerances and wear will likely cause differences from one trans to another also.
How I do it.
The very first thing I do is to make sure the trans is neutral centered with the shift tabs off and the shifter is pinned to line up the shifter gate. Before attaching the shift tabs I adjust them just past where the tabs line up with the fork flats in both directions (shorter/longer) to find closest to center. When tightening the tab nuts down I hold the tabs with an adjustable wrench so the tabs don't move the shift forks.
I then road test for feel. If I find I'm dropping out of a gear I'll work with rod length, trial and error, a tedious one turn at a time on that rod.
Provided I have the correct shifter and linkage, if I can't get it to hold in gear by mechanical adjustment before the shifter gate starts binding, I'm thinking I have problems in the box.

Curious. What gear lube are you using?

 

[polywideblock]

mine jumped out of second had it inspected was told nothing wrong ,kept doing it and when an "expert "looked it was VERY slightly worn dog teeth .you would never have picked it without knowing what to look for

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Most likely no adjustment can fix this. Gotta tear in to it. Input bearings need to be replaced and possibly the gear. Jamie at Passon Performance can sell you the parts and provide guidance.

Thanks, I know those parts can cause problems. I will try everything else first..............................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I'm no transmission expert, but mine does this same thing in 2nd gear & I've always thought it was a worn synchronizer.

I think what Dave69 is referring to is aligning the shifter linkage. On my '70 Hurst linkage, if you look at the linkage itself (not the shift arms) & the transmission is in neutral, the linkage "plates" all have about a 1" notch on the bottom side. If the linkage is adjusted properly, all of those notches will line up. I think factory service manuals show you how to make a "shim" to fit inside the linkage plate slots, but you can eyeball them.

If you're idea that 1st gear isn't "clicked in" like the other gears, then you might find the 1st/2nd shifter plate's slot a little more towards the 2nd gear side, if that makes any sense.

Makes good sense, I will check that out. I have been told that the shifter" stops can also affect 1st gear. Even a shifter boot could be interfering..............Thanks...........................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

IMO, The shifter gate line up is not necessarily the optimal line up for the trans. Tolerances and wear will likely cause differences from one trans to another also.
How I do it.
The very first thing I do is to make sure the trans is neutral centered with the shift tabs off and the shifter is pinned to line up the shifter gate. Before attaching the shift tabs I adjust them just past where the tabs line up with the fork flats in both directions (shorter/longer) to find closest to center. When tightening the tab nuts down I hold the tabs with an adjustable wrench so the tabs don't move the shift forks.
I then road test for feel. If I find I'm dropping out of a gear I'll work with rod length, trial and error, a tedious one turn at a time on that rod.
Provided I have the correct shifter and linkage, if I can't get it to hold in gear by mechanical adjustment before the shifter gate starts binding, I'm thinking I have problems in the box.

Curious. What gear lube are you using?

Good info there.
As per Brewers, I am using a gear lube that they sell. I have heard to use motor oil, Dexron II or III auto tranny oil, or synthetic oil. Brewers lube is a brand I don't remember at this time, but it has a specific SAE service number that is not common. Parent company is CRC..
I do notice that it shifts better if I shift slow to give synchro's time to work. ..................................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

mine jumped out of second had it inspected was told nothing wrong ,kept doing it and when an "expert "looked it was VERY slightly worn dog teeth .you would never have picked it without knowing what to look for

I have a feeling mine is like yours. Looks good, but something beyond accepted tolerance..Thanks..........................MO

 

[polywideblock]

its literally just the sharp corner taken off

 

[383man]

As many have said first thing to do is check the shifter linkage adjustment as you just need to be sure its going all the way in gear. The sycro itself will usually give trouble when trying to get it in gear. It may be worn dog leg teeth on the gear itself which if it is you will have to replace the gear itself or a worn (sloppy) bearing that will put pressure on the shaft when on the gas and many times the worn bearing will let it kick out of gear since it can move a little when on the gas. Once you make sure the linkage is right and it goes all the way in gear then try it again and if it still does it I think you will have to pull the trans. Good luck with it , Ron

 

[moper]

its literally just the sharp corner taken off

x2. Sounds like it's just worn out. Sometimes they wear and crunch going into gear. Sometimes they just won't stay.