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About to buy a 440, need some help!

Pillarstatic318

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Hello guys, I'm about to look at a 1968 440 TNT out of a 300.

Anyways, I can't hear it run so what are some things I should ask him?

Here's what he's told me so far.

He pulled it last year and had it in his charger for the summer, It's got approximately 70K miles on it and He SAYS it's never had any major problems.
 
Whats he asking for it,make sure its a 440,make sure its a 68 and whether it runs or not it may be worth it.
 
Does it turn over? Will he let you pull the heads, intake and oil pan so you can look at the internals?
 
In my experience big MoPars don't tend to have cracking issues with blocks or heads (assuming someone didn't try to cool them with air) and every one made between 68-70 will have everything you need to build a high HP solid street engine.

Start by looking for non discriminatory problems like rust, water in the cylinders, spun bearings, etc... As mentioned bring a 1.25" socket and breaker bar to turn the engine over. Pull the pan and even heads if he will let you. You can always offer to split the cost of a mag check of the heads and block and if it passes you pick up the tab.

Good luck!
 
Though I don't know if this is timely enough to help you make a purchase decision, it is still possible to find under 100K mile engines from C bodies. For some reason many of them didn't get driven much.

Seeing that you come from a cold climate, check for any rusting or discoloration from seepage around the casting plug areas that would indicate block cracks from freezing. If it always had antifreeze in it, it should be OK.

You must factor in the cost (minimal) of changing the timing chain assembly, valve seals, valve cover and pan gaskets, and pick-up screen as 43 years will have pretty much disintegrated the seals, nylon timing gear coating, and gaskets regardless of mileage, and deposited all the chunks in the pan and screen.

If you can drop the pan, and it's a stock original engine, you will find a ton of horrific looking junk in the pan and screen, as well as a thick coating of sludge on the bottom of the pan.

The sludge will have a metallic sheen to it if you scrape some off with your finger, but all of this is quite normal as long as there is no big chunks of metal from bearings (that you can actually pick up with your fingers). All this can be a big bargaining chip while negotiating price.

If none of the above is present, it means that someone has had it apart at some time or another, which may or may not be a good thing depending on why it was disassembled, such as timing chain replacement (good), or some other problem (good or bad).

with the pan off you will also be able to see if there is any rust in the cylinders. Light discoloration is fine, but heavy rust is definitely bad.

Hope any of this helps.
 
I would make sure the engine is stamped with the right year code (68=D), engine displacement (440), and it should have an HP stamped also on the pad on the drivers side front pad. pulling a valve cover can tell you if the engine was properly maintained if the heads are clean and not all gunked up but it could also mean recent engine work. if you can rotate the engine with a breaker bar is a plus. Stay away from frozen engines.
 
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