Add Factory A/C?

[Foamstacker]

We are building a 68 Roadrunner. It is a non A/C car. I bought a 68 Charger for the A-pillars and floor pans. It has factory A/C in good condition. Is it worth installing the factory system or should I go after market. The biggest hassels I see are we would need to cut the proper holes in the firewall and all controls are vacum actuated. Any opinions? Thanks

 

[HawkRod]

That's a tough question - it all depends on what you intend to use the car for. Show car or drag car - no. Cruiser - maybe. Live in Arizona - definitely.

I am adding A/C to my 70 Road Runner. I plan to drive it a lot, and want my wife to actually come with me sometimes. This means the A/C is a must. It is an air grabber car, so I wanted the A/C hidden. The aftermarket has a nice under alternator bracket that makes the A/C very hard to see. It also does not interfere with the air grabber. For me, I would never have wanted to install the huge Chrysler compressor on top of my engine.

My 73 Road Runner has a complete factory setup, and it works fine. If you have the whole A/C setup and a non-pristine original car, I would suggest you install it. If you really don't like the compressor, you can upgrade it later to a hidden compressor...

See below for a picture of the hidden A/C bracket. A bit hard to see, but hopefully you get the idea.

 

[bigblock]

The fire walls are diff,But the aftermarket has you covered either way you decide. Pick one and go for it!

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

R12 vs R134? R12 is illegal now and I have never heard of being able to convert a factory unit over to the new 134a system so I don't think that would be a good idea unless you want to mount a boat anchor in your engine bay?

 

[Dennis H]

Recommend Classic Auto Air/Tampa or Vintage.

 

[68GTX440]

Actually R-12 is still being made but a little on the pricey side. To convert to 134A replace compressor and receiver/drier and flush the system. i have done several. They even have alternate freon for R-12, it used to be called freeze 12 and now called something else and works very well.

R12 vs R134? R12 is illegal now and I have never heard of being able to convert a factory unit over to the new 134a system so I don't think that would be a good idea unless you want to mount a boat anchor in your engine bay?

- - - Updated - - -

Here is the replacement and you won't need to flush or change anything out as it will mix with all oils.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enviro-Safe-R12-R134a-Industrial-134a-Replacement-Refrigerant-Case-of-12-cans-/111284892133?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e918b1e5&vxp=mtr

- - - Updated - - -

Here for $19.95 you can do an onlune test and become certified to purchase freon from anywhere.

http://www.epatest.com/609/

 

[Grabinov911]

I don't know if the Charger you bought has the engine in it, but the pulley setup on the front of the 68 Roadrunner engine is totally different in the factory air cars than in the no A/C cars. Putting factory air on a no A/C engine requires changing a lot of pulleys and brackets. You CAN mount a Sanden compressor, either hidden or up on top and it doesn't look too bad. Bouchillon Performance has the part you need either way...

 

[Foamstacker]

I don't have anything for under the hood, but do have all ducting, heater box and dash frame. I removed the heater core and will have it checked for leaks. (looks good to the naked eye) I will also have the evaporater core pressure tested. The system has been open for years. The Roadrunner has a 67- 440. The original 383 was removed in Arkansas by the 2nd owner. I have tried to find it but no luck. (posted in lost and found on this site) The car is very straight, never wrecked just the usual rust issues that most B-Bodies have. We are making a cruiser A/C a must in Dallas TX. My main hesitation is to start hacking away at the firewall to fit the blower motor and the heater core shut off valve. I guess I can save the pieces to put it back to original if someone wanted. What are your opinions as to the value of the car if I cut on it.

 

[Dennis H]

Opinion: put aftermarket in and enjoy the car.

 

[Foamstacker]

Thank you every one for your opinions. I will go with after market A/C. I don't remember how good or bad the chrysler systems were in the late 60's. Lived in PA and did not need A/C very often.

 

[q-ship]

Thank you every one for your opinions. I will go with after market A/C. I don't remember how good or bad the chrysler systems were in the late 60's. Lived in PA and did not need A/C very often.

Were it me, I would go with a hybrid. --- Use the factory A/C dash frame, Heat-A/C box, and stock ducting from the Charger, and go modern under the hood.

The stock evaporator is far more efficient than any of the aftermarket offerings, and a new rotary type compressor and parallel flow condenser, is equally far more efficient than any of the old stuff.

Stock A/C venting is better than the aftermarket versions, so for a true improvement, the hybrid is the best way to go.

Converting a non-A/C firewall to an A/C version is fairly easy.

I do lots of A/C work on old muscle cars for other desert dwellers and the hybrid is better than either stock, or aftermarket, everytime.

As a side note, are you going to part out the rest of the Charger? If so, I need the passenger side "chunk" (the 1/2 pillar that holds the door latch, and the rear quarter mounts to). If you have it, please let me know.

 

[Foamstacker]

I do have that. The car is at a friends place right now. I don't remember if the door pillar is damaged. I will check it this weekend. I think the passenger side is in good shape.

 

[q-ship]

PM sent on the part so as not to get the thread off topic.

Thanks.

 

[Foamstacker]

So I have decided to do the hybrid set up. I tested the heater core. It checks out good, however there is an internal valve between the 2 cores. (A/C cars have a double core)
This valve leaks. My question, is this valve needed or can you cut it out? There is the external cut off on the firewall. I spoke to the guy at the radiator shop and he said Chrysler had that valve and it would close when you put the A/C to max. Anybody know for sure?

 

[HawkRod]

So I have decided to do the hybrid set up. I tested the heater core. It checks out good, however there is an internal valve between the 2 cores. (A/C cars have a double core)
This valve leaks. My question, is this valve needed or can you cut it out? There is the external cut off on the firewall. I spoke to the guy at the radiator shop and he said Chrysler had that valve and it would close when you put the A/C to max. Anybody know for sure?

I don't know the specific function of this valve, but remember this: Car companies calculate costs to the fractions of cents. Why? Because when you make 100,000's of cars, those costs add up. Chrysler put it there for a reason - I'd fix it...

 

[AMX364]

Replace that heater core! If it has been repaired, then it will not heat as well. Loses about 20% for each repair and a total bear to get at by itself. X3 on hybrid system.

 

[AMX364]

In reply to PM, heater core is just my opinion. On the valve, take and post picture and someone will know the answer. I myself do not know the answer.