Adjusted bands, now trans acting funky.....

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I had been putting off installing my cheap deep pan and brass filter until I got an 8 point socket for the band studs in the mail.


It finally arrived this week, so I pulled the old pan down, adjusted the bands according to Hughes' specs (2 turns front band w/3.8 lever, 2.5 turns rear band, both pre-torqued to 72 inch/lbs.)


My only reason for adjusting the bands was because I had a 400-500rpm flair during WOT 2-3 shifts (I've got a reverse manual valve body btw)


Anyways, after putting everything back together, I noticed it wouldn't go into reverse from neutral and I would have to put it in park first, then back down to reverse for it to catch :confused:


And if I try to put it in neutral from 1st, it would stay in 1st until I put it into reverse first, then back down into neutral (weird)


While driving in 3rd, if I try to downshift quickly into 2nd, there's a bit of a delay before it actually downshifts (it was instant before).


Under normal driving from a stop, 2nd seems to hit a bit harder now, chirping the tires at low throttle.


As for my initial problem, the 2-3 flair is pretty much gone, but I guess I opened up a can of worms by adjusting the rear band


Perhaps 2.5 turns is too tight??


Didn't check what rear lever I had :eusa_eh:

 

[Photon440]

Double check that the fluid level is correct.

Your 2-3 flair problem going away is likely indicating that your front band was out but is now in proper adjustment. The 2nd gear chirp backs this up. But I wouldn't think 2.5 turns is too tight for the rear. How many turns did it go in before reaching 72inch/lbs initially?

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Double check that the fluid level is correct.

Your 2-3 flair problem going away is likely indicating that your front band was out but is now in proper adjustment. The 2nd gear chirp backs this up. But I wouldn't think 2.5 turns is too tight for the rear. How many turns did it go in before reaching 72inch/lbs initially?

Fluid is level (checked hot in neutral after letting it sit in each gear for a bit)

As for the rear band, it was actually 2.5 turns out to begin with, however, when I adjusted it, I didn't have a wrench skinny enough to get around the lock nut and clear the sides of the lever, so I used a socket.

I marked the adjustment stud, but because I used a socket, there was no way to hold the stud with a wrench, so I kinda went back and forth with the stud a few times, but made sure it lined up with the same 2.5 turn position after tightening the locknut.

 

[ky509]

Loosen the rear band a little and it`ll probably start working like it should. Common sense tells you that if it worked properly before the adjustment it should work properly if you put it back where it belongs. Jmtc

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I spoke with TorqueFlite Patty and he suggested readjusting the rear band to 2 turns out and the front band to 1.5 turns out, so that's what I'm in the process of doing now.


I had used Hughes' online specs for their manual V/B yesterday as that was all I had found while searching, but I'm not sure which V/B I have and TFP said the specs he gave me are pretty much standard for most manual V/B's.

 

[Photon440]

Those specs should work with most valve bodies, usually the only change would be a different lever ratio.
http://www.extrememopars.com/dodgetorqueflitespecs.htm#gsc.tab=0

http://maxwedge.com/articles/transmission-diagnosis.php

Odd that your rear band hasn't really changed settings but is shifting differently. But it's only the front band that needed adjusting, that's the one that can affect 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK, everything went back together fine (even installed a few heli-coils that I've been putting off).

Checked the linkage and it was still within spec, however, the lock nut for the pivot pin was loose, but that wouldn't change anything since the pin is threaded.

Went through the gears on the lift and everything appeared to work as it should, then I went for a romp out on a back street for about 30 minutes.

All is well

The 2-3 flare up is back, but much reduced from when I first started (only about 100-200rpm's @ WOT)

TFP said the flare could be from a result of a specific combination of release springs in the front clutch and/or the release spring in the servo, but I'm not about to dive that deep into her for such a minor niggle.

It's not like it's slowing me down.

In fact, it feels like a good hard powershift in a manual car :headbang:

 

[Garys1969RR]

When it shifts from 1st to second, the one way clutch is holding, (over running clutch) and the front (kick down) band applies to the front drum which causes an instant shift into 2nd. And the over running clutch then free wheels, or spins in the direction its allowed to. Then on 2nd to 3rd shift, the high clutch applies as the front band releases. There is actually a brief over lap period where both are applied slightly. This is why the 2-3 shift isn't quite as quick as the 1-2 shift. So your high clutch may be slow to apply, or slipping at first. Mine was doing the same thing, or not even going into 3rd at all sometimes. So I am swapping transmissions now. The high clutch seems to be a trouble spot, or weak spot when the trans starts to have problems. This is my basic understanding of how they work. Any other input is appreciated.Ty

 

[RustyRatRod]

I've always done 2 turns on both and never had a problem.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Thanks, Rusty. I had planned to go 2 turns on each band when I set up my next one. At 1.5 turns out, the kick down band is going to apply slightly sooner, and release slightly later. So on the 2-3 shift there will be a little more overlap when the high (front) clutch applies as the front band is releasing. I have actually improved the 2-3 upshift on some transmissions by tightening the front band 1/2 turn. This can be done from under the car w/o removing the pan.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I've always done 2 turns on both and never had a problem.

With a manual V/B?