Advice on my 383 stroker

Engine, Trans & Driveline

  1. Jim Liddle

    Jim Liddle Member

    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Location:
    Lebanon TN.
    Local Time:
    2:31 PM
    I bought a 400 from CL on Saturday to build a 451 stroker. On Sunday I found on CL what the guy Said was a 400 stroker that was taken apart and a lot of parts for what I thought Was a good deal.
    After I got home with it I found out it was a 383 stroker. The bad is the rear motor mount ear on the driver side is gone. Is there a fix for this or maybe run with out it.I could use some advice On this. I just converted to mopar from Chevy so some of this is new to me. If I am able to use this block I will have
    More questions.
    Jim

    IMG_1674.JPG
     
  2. Jeff_383

    Jeff_383 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    249
    Likes Received:
    173
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Location:
    bentleyville, pa
    Local Time:
    2:31 PM
    What parts are left? Crank, rods, etc...? May be easier to find a new block for cheap
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • 1967coronet440

      1967coronet440 Well-Known Member

      Messages:
      7,092
      Likes Received:
      10127
      Joined:
      Oct 26, 2016
      Location:
      Indiana
      Local Time:
      2:31 PM
      If you don't want to use it there's plenty of 400-440 blocks out there for sale pretty cheap.
       
    • not so famous bob

      not so famous bob Well-Known Member

      Messages:
      1,816
      Likes Received:
      1184
      Joined:
      May 20, 2016
      Location:
      okla. 74021
      Local Time:
      2:31 PM
      motor plate ---------
       
      • Like Like x 1
      • lewtot184

        lewtot184 Well-Known Member

        Messages:
        4,641
        Likes Received:
        2943
        Joined:
        Aug 21, 2011
        Location:
        indianapolis
        Local Time:
        3:31 PM
        the block has bosses on the front that a c-body or perhaps an a-body motor mount would attach.
         
      • 66Satellite47

        66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

        Messages:
        4,619
        Likes Received:
        3575
        Joined:
        Jan 15, 2015
        Location:
        St Paul MN
        Local Time:
        1:31 PM
        A motor plate is the easy answer. If that works in your application.
         
      • 68 HEMI GTS

        68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

        Messages:
        1,917
        Likes Received:
        2707
        Joined:
        Oct 12, 2011
        Location:
        michigan
        Local Time:
        3:31 PM
        Put the stroker parts in the 400 with new pistons.
         
      • PurpleBeeper

        PurpleBeeper Well-Known Member

        Messages:
        4,645
        Likes Received:
        3386
        Joined:
        Mar 20, 2011
        Location:
        Chicago
        Local Time:
        2:31 PM
        If you have the stroker crank/rods/pistons for a 383 block, then I say build the 383 stroker. If you can find a different 383 block, good. If not, you can run this one with motor plates (elephant ears) or probably as-is if you get creative with the motor mount & maybe run a chain on from the frame on the driver's side to a water pump bolt or something. The driver's side of the engine is what lifts up when you hit the gas & that side's motor mount takes the most stress.
         
      • 66Satellite47

        66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

        Messages:
        4,619
        Likes Received:
        3575
        Joined:
        Jan 15, 2015
        Location:
        St Paul MN
        Local Time:
        1:31 PM
        A stock drivers side motor mount with a really good torque strap would probably work just fine.
         
      • Jim Liddle

        Jim Liddle Member

        Messages:
        18
        Likes Received:
        16
        Joined:
        Sep 27, 2016
        Location:
        Lebanon TN.
        Local Time:
        2:31 PM
        Thanks for the reply
        I have a 440 forged crank that has been machined to fit the b blocks. 383 forged rods that have full floating pins.
        The block has been bored .030
        And is in good shape no ridge.
        From the research I have done the Pistons are older TRW forged dome possibly 12:1.
        It also came with mildly ported 906 heads. The guy I got this from said he pulled the motor apart to freshen it up a few years ago to put in his car
        Since then sold the car and lost parts.Some parts ended up in a bucket full of water.
        So I could go back together with this only needing rings, bearings,oil pump,cam,lifters and gaskets.
        Before I go any further with this
        I need to do some measuring to fine out the real CR. I was not looking for a 12:1 motor.
        If I use the 400 block it will
        Need boring and new pistons
        The 383 block is 1968
        The 400 is late 70's
        If this makes a difference.
        With the parts I have what do you think is the best route to go to get the most power per dollar?
        If not for the motor mount tab gone and possible 12:1 CR I would not even be asking questions.
        This is going in a 1968 coronet
        Auto trans
        I would like the Rear end gear in the 3.7:1 range.

        The rest of the parts that came with it.
        Hooker Super comp headers 1 7/8
        MSD Pro billet distributor
        650 double pumper
        Eldelbrock TM5 (I think )
        The heads have adjustable iron
        Rockers.
        Billet pulley set
        MSD wires
        Mopar cast aluminum
        Valve covers and air cleaner.
         
      • CoronetDarter

        CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

        Messages:
        1,562
        Likes Received:
        1735
        Joined:
        Oct 13, 2013
        Location:
        Lincoln, CA
        Local Time:
        12:31 PM
        Check out www.440source.com; they specialize in BB stroker kits and they have an informative landing page that goes into detail about the different blocks. A lot of builders prefer the 400 block because of the thicker main webbing.
         
      • 66Satellite47

        66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

        Messages:
        4,619
        Likes Received:
        3575
        Joined:
        Jan 15, 2015
        Location:
        St Paul MN
        Local Time:
        1:31 PM
        Heck if the 383 block looks OK other than the motor mount boss I'd sure run it. The TRW pistons should be verified ( what's the number on them), decide what CR you really want. 9.5 with iron heads & today's premium seems like the top. Aluminum heads can easily take 10.5 on pump premium. The TM6 will work very well, I welded up the outside of the intake ports & ground the pushrod lump out of the Inside of the intake port, angle ground the bolt holes. A 440 crank in the 400 block works great. I built two of those. The first with stock low deck rods, shot peened, good bolts 12.8 actual CR. Second LY rods shot peened, good bolts 12.4 actual CR. Both of these made about 600 HP with my home ported 906 heads. The 383 w/440 crank would do close, although the bigger 400+ bore makes some more HP.
         
      • moper

        moper Well-Known Member

        Messages:
        1,044
        Likes Received:
        638
        Joined:
        Sep 25, 2014
        Location:
        Eastern CT
        Local Time:
        2:31 PM
        If the casting date is right - Dude - that is an A body ONLY 383 block. A VERY good score. You can build it just like anything else, but you might want to post the VIN number off the ID pad near the pan rail, plus any other stampings on it, and see if the owner of the car wants it. Post on FABO about it but that's what it looks like to me...

        I've built a few 383 based strokers. The last one is a 496 and makes close to 550hp.
         
        • Like Like x 1
        • Jim Liddle

          Jim Liddle Member

          Messages:
          18
          Likes Received:
          16
          Joined:
          Sep 27, 2016
          Location:
          Lebanon TN.
          Local Time:
          2:31 PM
          a few more pictures
          The pistons don't have a part number on them there is
          231-99 in the bottom.

          IMG_1678.JPG IMG_1680.JPG IMG_1681.JPG IMG_1682.JPG IMG_1683.JPG
           
        • 68 HEMI GTS

          68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

          Messages:
          1,917
          Likes Received:
          2707
          Joined:
          Oct 12, 2011
          Location:
          michigan
          Local Time:
          3:31 PM
          those are gonna require race gas. Looks like pitting on the top? Could have been detonating the last time it was together. if this is gonna be a street motor I wouldn't be using those.
           
        • Jim Liddle

          Jim Liddle Member

          Messages:
          18
          Likes Received:
          16
          Joined:
          Sep 27, 2016
          Location:
          Lebanon TN.
          Local Time:
          2:31 PM
          Well the more I check things out The worse it gets.
          It's not a stroker after all just a 383 with forged crank and rods
          With big dome pistons.
          When I went to look at it
          It was obvious the OD of the counter weights had been turned down for some reason.
          I just assumed 440 crank turned down. I am pretty sure
          The guy I got it from did not have a clue what it was and I did not check the stroke.
          So now I don't have the parts I thought I had. My options are now put the 383 back together
          or use 383 parts to build the 400. I could still stroke the 400
          Just more cost on top of what
          I already spent on parts that
          Won't be used.

          IMG_1684.JPG
           
        • moper

          moper Well-Known Member

          Messages:
          1,044
          Likes Received:
          638
          Joined:
          Sep 25, 2014
          Location:
          Eastern CT
          Local Time:
          2:31 PM
          Guessing the ioriginal builder was quite good. The pistons in a 383 are only high tens low 11s for static compression. The crank was probably turned down because the weight on the counterweights is just dead weight. It's better to lighten them. Measure the bores and see where they stand.
          That 383 can go to 496 if the sonic test shows it good enough.
           
        • Mike67

          Mike67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

          Messages:
          6,413
          Likes Received:
          10218
          Joined:
          Nov 23, 2014
          Location:
          Woodlands Tx
          Local Time:
          2:31 PM
          As far as the tab goes I've heard of good welders using nickel to build the up broken mounts.... And a lot of grinding to shape it... Wives tale??? Maybe one of the more experienced guys could validate...
           
        • Jim Liddle

          Jim Liddle Member

          Messages:
          18
          Likes Received:
          16
          Joined:
          Sep 27, 2016
          Location:
          Lebanon TN.
          Local Time:
          2:31 PM
          The cylinders measure right on .030 over. 4.280.
          The pistons have about .008
          Clearance though.
          Seems like a lot movement in the hole but, I guess that is normal for an older forged piston. I would think they would make a lot of Noise when cold.
          Well I am thinking of building the 383 back. That will be the most economical option right now if I can make a useable
          Motor out of it.
           
        • moper

          moper Well-Known Member

          Messages:
          1,044
          Likes Received:
          638
          Joined:
          Sep 25, 2014
          Location:
          Eastern CT
          Local Time:
          2:31 PM
          If the bores are still straight and round, you can do whatever you want. Usually the piston to wall is a function of the bore and piston. So if you don;t have a dial bore gage, have a shop measure it for you. If you really want budget - have the shop take the pistons and whack the top of the dome flat and just re-ring it. The available domed hypers still only get up to about 9.5:1. So you can cut yours down a little that way and not need anything else.
          Old forged piston could be noisey. But if you have headers and an open element air cleaner, and aluminum valve covers with roller rockers, there's all kinds of similar noises there anyway. It also goes away before the thermostat even opens. So lower the static ratio with cutting the pistons and maybe using a thicker head gasket, re-ring it, and run it. It does look like a great 383 from back in the day.
           
          • Like Like x 1
          1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
            By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.