Aftermarket Air

[Dave6T4]

Thanks for your post. Do you find the Gen 2 has enough capacity for your car to keep it cool? That is a pretty nice looking custom dash. My car has the factory vents, so I am OK there.

 

[Centerline]

The Gen II unit is more than capable of cooling a full sized car.

 

[Dave6T4]

I thought I would post an update on my Vintage Air installation project. I ended up buying a Gen II Super evaporator and 24" condenser. I also bought the Sanden compressor and the mount kit to mount it to my power steering pump bracket. Unfortunately, this mounts to the '67 and up 2-piece steel TRW pump bracket, while my car had the earlier sheet metal piece. So, I had to buy a repro TRW pump bracket. I have been buying the Vintage Air parts from Horton Hot Rods in Milton, Ontario, saving me all the screwing around with shipping across the border.
I got the evaporator mounted to the firewall after making and modifying some brackets. After modifying the VA condenser brackets, I mounted the condenser to the radiator support. I originally ordered a 22" condenser, matching the radiator size. However, due to the way the condenser is constructed, I found it was too narrow. I returned it in exchange for a 24" wide piece and it fits nicely. The compressor mounted to the new power steering bracket per the enclosed instructions. The mount kit included a new alternator bracket as well. After looking at the instructions for it, I concluded that it would look like a cobbled up POS. Since my car had a factory A/C system in it at one time, I had the 4-groove crank pulley, and the required alternator bracket as well as the small water pump pulley and idler pulley and bracket, so I used them. Every thing lines up. The front groove of the crank pulley runs the water pump through the idler pulley. The second groove runs the power steering pump. The third groove runs both the compressor and alternator on the first groove of their 2-groove pulleys. The rear groove of the crank pulley is empty.
All the heater and A/C connections are grouped on the right side of the evaporator. Vintage Air makes Surefit systems for newer Mopars, and run all the lines out through the inner fender panel and into the cowl under the passenger side front fender, due to space considerations. I found a neat Dayco 5/8" molded hose that can turn the heater water around and run it across the top of the evaporator to the area where the heater hoses originally came into the car. I have plumbed the heater lines and have the hot water shut off valve mounted inline on the inlet hose out in the engine compartment. I would have preferred to mount it inside, but found I had no room to do so. Running the heater lines as I did now gives me room to plumb the A/C lines through the cowl so they are inside of the inner fender panel. I plan to run these flexible lines down the inner fender in the same fashion as the '66 and up B-bodies routed their heater lines. This is the next step in my project. I thank the many FBBO members who have offered help and suggestions.

 

[dmoore]

Whatever design or system you use making sure of the correct charge is highly important. I'm assuming your using 134a with a fixed orifice tube?

 

[Dave6T4]

Whatever design or system you use making sure of the correct charge is highly important. I'm assuming your using 134a with a fixed orifice tube?

Yes, this Vintage Air system is designed for 134a. I have no idea what a fixed orifice tube is. Never heard of it before. I m going to have it charged by someone who knows what he is doing.

 

[dmoore]

Found in the liquid line before the evaporator it meters the correct amount of refrigerant VAPOR into your evaporator. It is the division point between the high and low pressure side of the system.

 

[Dave6T4]

Here is another update on my Vintage Air installation. I talked to Mark, the tech guy at V.A., and he said their system does not use a fixed orifice tube. I now have the A/C lines constructed and plumbed. By running the heater lines to the opposite side of the cowl, near where they originally exited, I was able to bring the A/C lines through the firewall just inside the inner fender panel. I was able to route the flexible A/C lines through '66-'70 B-body heater hose brackets to the passenger side inner fender to tidy things up. I formed hard lines from the condenser. A/C plumbing is now complete except hooking to drier. I don't want to open that up until closer to getting system charged. Now I have wiring to do, as well as mounting control panel to factory instrument panel.

 

[dmoore]

Ohhh, Ok..I see their using an expansion valve, old school. This is better due to the orifice tube in some instances sometimes allowing more oil to leave the compressor which shortens compressor life. I replace a LOT of compressors during our hot months thanks to the CCFOT! Cycling Clutch Fixed Orifice Tube. Your installation looks great.. That electronic water cutoff valve at firewall was a great idea. No need to introduce more heat into the vehicle when your trying to remove it! Will you be at Carlisle Dave?

 

[Dave6T4]

Ohhh, Ok..I see their using an expansion valve, old school. This is better due to the orifice tube in some instances sometimes allowing more oil to leave the compressor which shortens compressor life. I replace a LOT of compressors during our hot months thanks to the CCFOT! Cycling Clutch Fixed Orifice Tube. Your installation looks great.. That electronic water cutoff valve at firewall was a great idea. No need to introduce more heat into the vehicle when your trying to remove it! Will you be at Carlisle Dave?

With our border still

Ohhh, Ok..I see their using an expansion valve, old school. This is better due to the orifice tube in some instances sometimes allowing more oil to leave the compressor which shortens compressor life. I replace a LOT of compressors during our hot months thanks to the CCFOT! Cycling Clutch Fixed Orifice Tube. Your installation looks great.. That electronic water cutoff valve at firewall was a great idea. No need to introduce more heat into the vehicle when your trying to remove it! Will you be at Carlisle Dave?

I think my Carlisle days are over. Besides our border still being closed, I no longer have the stamina required to do the swap meet. Double knee replacement and just general old age. Plus it is a full day's drive each way. The last time I attended was about 5 years ago when I sold my 1964 Polara 500. convertible.

 

[dmoore]

With our border still

I think my Carlisle days are over. Besides our border still being closed, I no longer have the stamina required to do the swap meet. Double knee replacement and just general old age. Plus it is a full day's drive each way. The last time I attended was about 5 years ago when I sold my 1964 Polara 500. convertible.

Understand fully!

 

[rustytoolss]

The Gen II unit is more than capable of cooling a full sized car.

I've been looking at AC systems. Going betweeh Vintage air GEN II Super and Vintage air GEN IV magnum. I have a 62 Fury wagon. Would you think that the GEN II would be up to job .

 

[Dave6T4]

I don't know. Your wagon has bigger area to cool with more glass. Your climate would be similar to ours in Ontario. Looking at instructions sheets that come with Gen II, it looks like it is engineered to cool '30's - '40's sedan hot rods. You might need a larger unit. If you get too small a unit, then the compressor runs more, trying to keep up, just like home A/C.
If you look at some of my pictures in previous posts, one shows relationship of mounted unit in proximity to console, to answer to another of your questions. In this picture, there is still about 6-7 inches of room from left side of unit to brake pedal support for larger unit. On the right side, it is about 11" from the bottom of the unit to the flat of the front floor. I hope this helps in your decision.

 

[rustytoolss]

I don't know. Your wagon has bigger area to cool with more glass. Your climate would be similar to ours in Ontario. Looking at instructions sheets that come with Gen II, it looks like it is engineered to cool '30's - '40's sedan hot rods. You might need a larger unit. If you get too small a unit, then the compressor runs more, trying to keep up, just like home A/C.
If you look at some of my pictures in previous posts, one shows relationship of mounted unit in proximity to console, to answer to another of your questions.

Yeah I've seen that...I tried to PM that person, but he has not been on this group since 2020. And I can't send him a message ( box full)

 

[rustytoolss]

Yeah I've seen that...I tried to PM that person, but he has not been on this group since 2020. And I can't send him a message ( box full)

Sorry the guy I was talking about had a GEN IV

 

[Dave6T4]

Sorry the guy I was talking about had a GEN IV

Vintage Air sells empty mock up boxes to help you decide what system will fit your space.