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Aftermarket oil pressure gauge install - electric or mechanical?

moparedtn

When we want your opinion, we'll ask for it
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My 1968 GTX only has the idiot light and apparently these cars didn't even have the option for an oil pressure gauge, so I'm going to install an aftermarket one.
It's a street/weekend/cruising car, not some strip beast.
We've all known or heard of someone who had a mechanical gauge let loose/leak inside the car, which I'd just as soon not have happen in mine, either.
Opinions requested:
a. mechanical or are there decently accurate electric ones?
b. recommendations of a fairly priced, decent quality one?
TIA!
 
I like the mechanical. You get what you pay for with them too. I also like to "T" the origanal sending unit with the mechanical, just for that Red Light, if by chance I'm not paying attention.
 
I use a basic autometer mechanical (I forget the exact style). Just be sure to scrap the plastic capillary tube and get some metal. Home Depot sells cool of copper capillary tube for next to nothin - cheap insurance.

I decided to keep the idiot light too, just as insurance.n that way every time I start up, I see the gauge rise and idiot light turn off, confirming both are functioning before every startup. Again, cheap insurance.
 
I like the mechanical. You get what you pay for with them too. I also like to "T" the origanal sending unit with the mechanical, just for that Red Light, if by chance I'm not paying attention.
Yep, exactly what I'm going to do also. What is the thread on the sending unit? 1/4" pipe thread?
 
I use a basic autometer mechanical (I forget the exact style). Just be sure to scrap the plastic capillary tube and get some metal. Home Depot sells cool of copper capillary tube for next to nothin - cheap insurance.

I decided to keep the idiot light too, just as insurance.n that way every time I start up, I see the gauge rise and idiot light turn off, confirming both are functioning before every startup. Again, cheap insurance.
Agreed! Do you know what thread the sending unit is?
 
Agreed! Do you know what thread the sending unit is?

1/8" npt - all the gauges come with everything you need (except for the copper capillary tube). For big blocks, look at the top / back of the motor just forward of the bellhousing. You'll see 2 spots to tap into the oil galley - perfect for the idiot light and the mechanical gauge. Maybe the same for small block, but not sure.
 
1/8" npt - all the gauges come with everything you need (except for the copper capillary tube). For big blocks, look at the top / back of the motor just forward of the bellhousing. You'll see 2 spots to tap into the oil galley - perfect for the idiot light and the mechanical gauge. Maybe the same for small block, but not sure.
There's TWO? Great, didn't realize that.
Yes, I know where the one existing sending unit is, but I had no idea there was a second - I had already figured on using a tee to retain my idiot light.
Thanks!
 
There's TWO? Great, didn't realize that.
Yes, I know where the one existing sending unit is, but I had no idea there was a second - I had already figured on using a tee to retain my idiot light.
Thanks!

Yep! Not often that things work out in our favor like that.
oil sender.jpg
 
WHEN I GOT MY 68 ROADRUNNER IT HAD A PLASTIC OIL PRESSURE LINE. IT WORKED. ONE DAY THAT LINE BLEW AND SPRAYED AT LEAST 4 QRT'S ALL OVER THE PLACE BY THE TIME I GOT IT PULLED OVER AND SHUT DOWN. WAS LUCKY THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT DIDN'T GO UP. HAD TO WALK A MILE IN THE RAIN TO FIND OIL AT A SUPERMARKET. YOU GET THE PICTURE I ALWAYS RUN A MECHANICAL GAUGE WITH A STEEL BRAIDED AN-3 LINE AND FITTINGS, TEED OFF OF THE FACTORY OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT SWITCH COPPER LINES ARE TIME BOMBS ,VIBRATION, FATIGUE,FERRULE NUT CONNECTION'S SUCK. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME . SET IT AND FORGET IT.KNOW JUST IMAGINE IF THAT LINE BLOWS INSIDE YOUR CAR WHAT A MESS
 
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Yeah, I eyeballed mine tonight and saw the plug on the other side of the factory switch. Going to be a BEAR to get to it way back there, especially for this old fart.
I'll wind up laying on top of the engine, looks like. :mad:

You guys are certainly making the case for me to do an electric one, that's for sure.
 
WHEN I GOT MY 68 ROADRUNNER IT HAD A PLASTIC OIL PRESSURE LINE. IT WORKED. ONE DAY THAT LINE BLEW AND SPRAYED AT LEAST 4 QRT'S ALL OVER THE PLACE BY THE TIME I GOT IT PULLED OVER AND SHUT DOWN. WAS LUCKY THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT DIDN'T GO UP. HAD TO WALK A MILE IN THE RAIN TO FIND OIL AT A SUPERMARKET. YOU GET THE PICTURE I ALWAYS RUN A MECHANICAL GAUGE WITH A STEEL BRAIDED AN-3 LINE AND FITTINGS, TEED OFF OF THE FACTORY OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT SWITCH COPPER LINES ARE TIME BOMBS ,VIBRATION, FATIGUE,FERRULE NUT CONNECTION'S SUCK. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME . SET IT AND FORGET IT.KNOW JUST IMAGINE IF THAT LINE BLOWS INSIDE YOUR CAR WHAT A MESS

I have to agree. Braided line is definitely the best choice and for the money t just makes sense. My car came with copper and you're correct, whenever I'm fiddling under the dash I'm always super careful around the copper line. A kink would be a total pita.
 
You guys are certainly making the case for me to do an electric one, that's for sure.

Yeah and dont let me talk you out of an electric gauge. I'm running a mechanical and i kinda like the simplicity of a mechanical gauge, but it's not like any of us have ever heard of an autometer electric oil pressure gauge giving a missed reading and causing an engine failure. I say go for what ever gives you the most peace of mind; several ways to do this thing right.
 
I'm with mmissile on this one. I just installed a 4 1/2" speedhut quad gauge in my charger. It's all electric with stepmotors . very fast and accurate. You can get it custom made how you would like it to look too. Pat
 
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