Air Conditioning..who has done it?

[MiamiMopar]

I'm in Miami Beach and it's getting to ba about the time the old gal gets put into mothballs because when the winter is done, here comes the rain and the heat. Driving around without a/c isn't an option and putting the top down is actually 10x worse than keeping it up. The sun in the spring/summer here is "Africa Hot".

I have one of the two popular A/C retrofit companies here in central Florida (I think it's Classic Air...the other one is in Texas I think) and the cost of the system plus installation by a former employee is over $3K (yeah... 3 grand+).

Considering that for the past 10 years or so, I haven't been able to drive my car except for Dec, Jan and Feb I am thinking about it so that I can get more use out of it.

BUT, I would be really upset if I spent that kind of money, made a hole in the firewall for the drain (yes it can be reversed) only to find out it doesn't work, or breaks down every 2 months. SO....if anyone has any experience with this kind of thing, I would sure like to hear about it.

 

[Revhendo]

I've installed Vintage Air, Hot Rod Air and Classic Auto Air systems. Probably the biggest problem any of them have at this point is long periods of being unused. Most of these systems use similar components and if you exercise the units periodically in "off" season, they work rather well for quite a long time. Which systems are you looking at? What type of car? Is there a specific kit for your car or are you adapting in a general kit in?

 

[MiamiMopar]

I've installed Vintage Air, Hot Rod Air and Classic Auto Air systems. Probably the biggest problem any of them have at this point is long periods of being unused. Most of these systems use similar components and if you exercise the units periodically in "off" season, they work rather well for quite a long time. Which systems are you looking at? What type of car? Is there a specific kit for your car or are you adapting in a general kit in?

It's supposed to be one of those "perfect fit" kits made for the Road Runner/B-Body with only a heater. As far as I can tell, it uses the existing heater controls. It's a 69 RR convertible that I am looking to cool down in the summer... which is all year here.

I am familiar with Vintage Air, which is the Texas firm, Classic Auto Air is the one that makes the "perfect fit" system and they are in Tampa. Earlier last year I called them and they n longer do the installs, but referred me to a former employee and that's where I got the figures. Hot Rod Air is new to me, but I will take a look online. Is any one of them any better than the other? The people at Classic were very polite when I called them.

 

[HI!]

Having done plenty aftermarket A/C installs. I can tell you this.
If you can get a factory A/C setup youd be better off. The aftermarket stuff is good for small cars( street rods). When you get into larger cars I find they dont have the volume needed to cool off enough of the car. It will only do so much. Unless they have come out with something new in the last year, I dont think youd be happy.
Although something is better than nothing.

 

[Revhendo]

Having done plenty aftermarket A/C installs. I can tell you this.
If you can get a factory A/C setup youd be better off. The aftermarket stuff is good for small cars( street rods). When you get into larger cars I find they dont have the volume needed to cool off enough of the car. It will only do so much. Unless they have come out with something new in the last year, I dont think youd be happy.
Although something is better than nothing.

Yes and no. The efficiency of the system depends on evap size, condenser and compressor. The standard Sanden compressor is the same size as most new car compressors. Alot of the problems with aftermarket systems comes from placement of components, routing of ducting or the vehicle not being optimized. If you add a/c to a vehicle, make sure your seals are good. Check your firewall for areas where engine heat can enter. How well is the interior insulated and adding a light tint to the glass can add a lot to how well factory and aftermarket air works. All of the flexible ducting is great, but make sure you route it as directly as possible with few bends and not a lot of exess ducting. (The ducting works much better when stretched out). One of the most important things is to make sure you have plenty of air flow across the condenser. They build heat fast and if there is not insufficient air flow, it will heat up, build pressure and shut down.

Adding factory air to a non air car is an option. It is usually an expensive proposition that involves finding used parts that can be almost impossible to find for some models. Using parts that aren't as reliable as their modern day components (anyone remember the hose clamps with hooks for early a/c systems?). Or parts/systems that weren't all that great to begin with. (Factory air on a 57 Chevy, Chrysler compressors that are big, impressive and brutish that can be outworked by a compressor half it's size and a quarter of it's weight). If you have a factory air car, it's usually easier and less expensive to convert to R134 refriedgerant and a Sanden compressor than it is to restore all of the original components and use R12. Unless of course, you are restoring a car to original spec.

If you can get ahold of original air deflectors for your dash, they do work better than the under dash outlets supplied by most aftermarket manufacturers.

 

[HI!]

Being that the car is a convertable will make it that much harder for the A/C system he chooses.
Now show me a factory 57 A/C unit? I know the cads had a little "A/C" unit, more like a house unit. LOL.

 

[Darter6]

Just a note. I have seen 'B' bodys that have had aftermarket air installed on two cars by two different installers and had the same mistake. On the passenger side when the heaterbox was removed the vent 'hole' from the cowl was not sealed shut and the A/C unit had poor performance. After making a cover plate and sealing it off the unit would freeze your co-co's off if you know what I mean...

 

[davidl13]

i live in palm beach county and i have a 69 barracuda convertible (non factory ac) ... the aftermarket ac system works great, blow steady and cold... i had to upgrade the alternator to 85 amps

 

[jaws]

I put the Classic air in my 68 Barracuda convert. If you can work a drill and some wrenches you can put it in, in a day. Mine works great, you need to pull a good vacume before you charge it back up. As you can see I also used a late model GM 120 amp alternator.

 

[Revhendo]

Hey Jaws, you're not running that alternator through your original amp gauge are you?
That's a nice install. Do I spy cruise control on that puppy, too?

 

[jaws]

By passed the amp gauge, now running a volt gauge. Pulled the cruise from a 70 Dodge Monaco many years ago. Fit perfect.

 

[bluefury]

I installed a "Classic Air" system into a 68 Coronet recently. It was a easy, smooth instillation that works great.

 

[74Satellite]

Stopped by a Air COnditioning shop today, thats been in business for over 40 years. I can get a underdash a/c system installed for around $1600 or I can get a factory type install with vents and all for around $3500-$4000. He said if I go with the underdash setup he would recommend I get my windows tinted because it will help keep the car cool. He was honest too, said the 1600 route wouldnt freeze me out of the car like the $4000 route would, but would make sitting in it in July/august tolerable.

 

[bluefury]

Stopped by a Air COnditioning shop today, thats been in business for over 40 years. I can get a underdash a/c system installed for around $1600.

A Classic air system, made for your car, comes in less then $1600.00.... And is an easy installation that directly replaces the original unit, Most use your original controls. Cools pretty good too.

 

[74Satellite]

Classic Air system makes a kit for a slant six?

 

[74Satellite]

Stopped by a Air COnditioning shop today, thats been in business for over 40 years. I can get a underdash a/c system installed for around $1600.

A Classic air system, made for your car, comes in less then $1600.00.... And is an easy installation that directly replaces the original unit, Most use your original controls. Cools pretty good too.

Maybe thats the problem, I dont have an original unit as this car was A/C delete from the factory. No vents in dash, no controls, no nothing.

 

[74Satellite]

Stopped by a Air COnditioning shop today, thats been in business for over 40 years. I can get a underdash a/c system installed for around $1600.

A Classic air system, made for your car, comes in less then $1600.00.... And is an easy installation that directly replaces the original unit, Most use your original controls. Cools pretty good too.

You are the MAN! Just got ahold of Steve at Classic Auto Air and he has a complete factory "Perfect Fit" system for my 225 for $1325 which comes with everything except the refridgerant and the belt. And better yet its in Dallas (About 2 hours from me) so I dont have to pay shipping. Said install takes on average about 14 hours but anyone with moderate mechanical skills can do it in a weekend or two. Then I just have to pay someone to charge it up and im good to go.

WOOT!

 

[74Satellite]

Quick dumb question, after I get this kit will I have to change my radiator to a "With A/C" radiator or do I keep the original one? Same goes for the without A/C Heater core?

 

[jaws]

Heater core is replaced with the unit from classic. When I put mine in I had already replaced the radiator with a larger one. I bought a cheap vacume pump from Horible freight, and charged mine my self for about $80.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I put the Classic air in my 68 Barracuda convert. If you can work a drill and some wrenches you can put it in, in a day. Mine works great, you need to pull a good vacume before you charge it back up. As you can see I also used a late model GM 120 amp alternator.

Looks good! I have a '68 Satellite with the original alternator and on my list this summer is to bypass the amp-meter gauge and go with a volt meter gauge instead and also upgrade the alternator. I read somewhere else that a slightly higher output 40/90 3 wire alt from a 88-89 New Yorker would be a direct swap. So I found one at a junk yard and it looks like it should fit except for this side housing thing where two of the wires come together that bumps into my valve cover. I'm desperately trying to find a better alternator that will bolt right up without making custom brackets. What car did your GM alt come from and was it an easy swap? (A year ago I suggested upgrading to a GM alt and got blasted for it here!) I'll take a mopar unit too, just want the output to be better and able to handle adding A/C.