FOR SALE Almost complete 440

[BeepBeepRR]

I have a 440 with 60 over pistons the engine ate a cam and needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Pretty much a complete engine minus a cam and lifters. Has a MSD RTR distributor but needs a cap. And a set of valve covers. Other than those items and a good clean up should be a solid 440. I had plans to keep this engine but I need to sell it to pay some bills. I will throw a price up of 2000.00 Make a decent offer and it can be yours. I have the heads off the engine out in my shed because I wanted to make sure it had no burnt valves. Heads are in good shape. I can get you more information on the block if needed. I think its a 70's era block. Did not see a number on the pan rail.


Pad Information 4T440 E

Block Casting Number 3698830-440 I think it says 78

CH4B intake Great intake if you have a N96 car. Probably not the best performing intake but it fits under the hood.
906 Heads
Rocker shafts
Rockers
Push rods
Water pump housing
Oil pump
Timing set
Forged Crank
Forged Pistons.
ARP Rod bolts


Valve covers are used on new 440
Aluminum Water pump as well as pulleys

 

[GTX 70]

HI, Is it a HP block and I would like to see the vin on it if it is?

 

[dadsbee]

Might as well get a picture of the casting # and date while you're at it!

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I do not believe its an HP I will get the numbers off the pad and the casting info as well as the pan rail.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I may have a set of valve covers for it as well. They should be aluminum fabbed valve covers. The ones you will see in this picture.

 

[RemCharger]

It's a 74 cast crank 440.
Question is, what crank is in it now?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

It's a 74 cast crank 440.
Question is, what crank is in it now?

What is the best way to check for cast or forged without pulling the engine apart further? I know the tink test will tell you if its cast or forged.. But with the rotating assembly together and the pan still on it its hard to tell.

 

[RemCharger]

What is the best way to check for cast or forged without pulling the engine apart further? I know the tink test will tell you if its cast or forged.. But with the rotating assembly together and the pan still on it its hard to tell.

So I take it you can't connect with who would know , or have any paper work.
The balancer should tell( if it ran without vibration)

Best way for sure, is drop the pan and inspect. The pan will end up having to come off anyway.

 

[RedBeard]

HI, Is it a HP block and I would like to see the vin on it if it is?

I don't see "HP" on the pad he is showing.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

So I take it you can't connect with who would know , or have any paper work.
The balancer should tell( if it ran without vibration)

Best way for sure, is drop the pan and inspect. The pan will end up having to come off anyway.

Yea I know... lol I just didn't want to pull the pan but I will if need be and have actual interest in the engine. I can put it on my stand and drop the pan. I know the crank was hooked up to a 4 speed... So it is drilled for a pilot bushing/bearing. I will drop the pan tomorrow. I need to see what kind of debris is in the pan anyhow after the eating of the cam. I will also pull a main cap to check bearings for damage. The cam got ate on break in.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I made some videos of the rotating assembly and I believe it is a forged crank. Was looking for thin parting lines and they were not present. However there were larger parting lines. If I can get the videos uploaded I will do so very shortly. The Rods look excellent however some flash rust is showing up but the engine has been in my shed since it was pulled. Might be a little bit of moisture in the shed since its not insulated or heated. Judging by this thread its indeed a forged crank.

 

[RemCharger]

Yes sir it's a forged crank. Also looks like ARP rod bolts

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I thought so too. on the ARP bolts. This engine looks super clean on the inside except for the flash rust. I need to get it back into my garage so I can climate control and keep it out of the damp air. But otherwise could be a great engine for the price of a camshaft, lifters and a little bit of time cleaning it up.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Drained the oil yesterday and no chunks of lifters or flakes for that matter. I need to cut open the filter to see what it looks like inside. But so far clean. I have to check it out in spurts because the shed is a cold nasty place that I dare not go................

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Update..... Just want you to know what is going on. Perhaps too honest lol.

Probably going to need the crank polished and new main bearings. It was not terrible but I would not feel comfortable running the bearings. They are .010 bearings MB2219P but I cannot find info for that particular set. I assume the bearing date was 01/14 So that's approximately when the engine was built. So with that said.. Probably needs main bearings, rod bearings and might as well do cam bearings too. Plus a crank polishing, didn't look bad but just to be sure its in good shape. I have not pulled a rod cap yet but assume its the same.