Alternator Replacement

[Tyron68]

On a side note, I predicted the brush fail as a posibility on my last post (last paragraph) LOL

Credit given! Lol.

 

[Tyron68]

To

Still with original setup, unfortunately factory alt capacity is tipically not enough. Sooner or later the lack of power blows up something somewhere. Is better get an 80 amps feeding allways a constant 35-45 amps capacity even at iddle but a batt resting, than loose iddle capacity and get up to 60 amps throught the circuit to feed back the batt after get lost the load while alt was not enough.

Cool was an easy/cheap fix. I perfectly understand the goal on keep the original piece in working order.

To your point, I still may at some point need to upgrade, especially when I put the AC back in the car. I have been just trying to get this thing to where I can drive it, since I bought it two years ago. I am down to needing an exhaust and an alignment.......

 

[Mr. Mike]

Looking for an original look under the hood or something that gets the job done?
Also look for an Ammeter workaround so all the current of a high output alternator doesn't melt your bulkhead connector.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Also look for an Ammeter workaround so all the current of a high output alternator doesn't melt your bulkhead connector.

Higher output alternators alone don’t cause additional current flow through the bulkhead charge circuit terminations. The loads determine the current flow, with correctly placed loads, there should be little to no current flowing through the ammeter, no matter the alternator capacity. The charging circuit bulkhead connectors are the weakest link in this original charging system, start there.

 

[threewood]

The Mancini install kit for the Denso type alternator is not needed. It bolts up to factory brackets and only needs two 5/8" spacers added. And the pigtail connector can be found for $14.