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Alternator

I guess you are looking at the later squareback (revised) version, which is as you noticed wider. Those are the ones PowerMaster and Mopar Performance offers. Using that one makes to demand a small trimming on rear spacer and longer belt to sway away the alt from the block, but longer belt also makes to slaps the belt more. The slapping makes also to damage the upper radiator hose on BBs at least with A/C

(Don’t ask how I know everything of this)

The best bet is try to get of course the closer on specs than the one you have at this moment.

Go to Tuff Stuff and find the one you want on stock casing (based on the first squareback alt version which is the one you have)

Chrysler alternators

They have 60 amps, 100 amps, 130 amps… cast finish, chromed, black finish. Stock dual field, one wire…

If A/C, they have single and dual groove setup made with the small pulley (later) version, able to hold better the load supplied at low RPMs

Aside this and noticing you are proceeding with some other upgrades (per the rest of your threads) I would suggest upgrade to 100 amps alt which are able to hold better the power at low RPMs, very critical to sensitive ignition systems… but that’s my opinion. Couple of upgrades on alt/amm paths and voilá

MAYBE this is the one you could get, which is the same I got couple of months ago, not in hands yet but at a friend’s home. Waiting to be overseas shipped yet maybe at the end of the year.


View attachment 1836113


But I will remove the attached regulator and will change the brush to get back the field prong for the dual field setup. I don’t care the one wire setup. Just got it for the price. (Was on the hunt for years untill find it affordable to me). Description said mounted but never used.
I am also running Edelbrock rpm heads. I had to modify the lower bracket to make the original one fit. Wasn't hard at all but left me with maybe 1/8" clearance.
 
Then you don't purchase from someone that doesn’t know his *** from a hole in th ground...by knowing the part nimbers/applications you know exactly what you're getting....I've been to enough parts swap outings, and I know EXACTLY what I'm buying and what I want.....if you don't...then when the part/item doesn't fit, who do you blame....the vendor? I go prepared especially with part/assembly numbers....
BOB RENTON
Bob seriously, I'm spending 10-20$ on a alternator if it does not fit my big block because the bearing boss in the rear is too big and hits the engine, I will just use it on a small block or a slant or just break it up for parts to fix units that the rotor or rectifier is bad. I need a alternator that charges, not filling someone's **** retentive need for NOS date coded horseshit on a 383 2bbl car.
 
Bob seriously, I'm spending 10-20$ on a alternator if it does not fit my big block because the bearing boss in the rear is too big and hits the engine, I will just use it on a small block or a slant or just break it up for parts to fix units that the rotor or rectifier is bad. I need a alternator that charges, not filling someone's **** retentive need for NOS date coded horseshit on a 383 2bbl car.
It's your $$$.....spend it anyway you want......I prefer NOS stuff.....and I'll spend my $$$ anyway I want.....my car is a numbers matching vehicle not one that looks like it's been shoemaker together with oddball stuff, just becaus its cheap.....my vehicle has been appraised at $85+k...how about your's???......
BOB RENTON
 
It's your $$$.....spend it anyway you want......I prefer NOS stuff.....and I'll spend my $$$ anyway I want.....my car is a numbers matching vehicle not one that looks like it's been shoemaker together with oddball stuff, just becaus its cheap.....my vehicle has been appraised at $85+k...how about your's???......
BOB RENTON
$50
Does that make you feel better about yourself BoB?
Nobody cares it's just a alternator.
I'm glad I do not have to live with the burden that is in your head, it's exhausting.
 
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To the OP sorry to hijack your thread. Was only trying to let you know it is a thing to be concerned about when buying a alternator. Apparently I'm a dumbass because I do not have part numbers imprinted on my brain for my cobbled, shoemaker car that has done over 20k in the last couple of years. Hope to see you on power tour. Look for my kids junk/cobbled mess rolling along at 80+ mph with the new 5 speed onboard.
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I am also running Edelbrock rpm heads. I had to modify the lower bracket to make the original one fit. Wasn't hard at all but left me with maybe 1/8" clearance.
Yes, if on stock setup, they have small clearence problems (easy to save thought), I can imagine with some other add ups
 
$50
Does that make you feel better about yourself BoB?
Nobody cares it's just a alternator.
I'm glad I do not have to live with the burden that is in your head, it's exhausting.
I'm glad you asked.....YES....I ABSOLUTELY DO FEEL BETTER....f you cared, then you wouldn't have brought it up......I was referring to all parts not just the alternator but it can apply to ALL parts related to the vehicle......perhaps, you do not have the mental acuity to realize the importance of using the correct parts for correct appearance.....but it's sounds like you don't......oh well.........
BOB RENTON
 
.oh well.........
BOB RENTON
Well bobby boy what is my correct part number for a 1968 Charger with A/C and a 383 2 bbl?
If you don't know them my "who cares" is relevant.
Those cars make your skin crawl huh bob
 
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The @cudaize alt came in today. He had to do a repair where they had a dual field conversion on it before, but this one is a correct date code and obviously much nicer looking than what I have now. My underhood spruce up for this year is coming together nicely.

Thanks to Mike!

IMG_4468.jpeg


IMG_4470.jpeg


IMG_4471.jpeg
 
Why not just use the original alternator?
Good question......just because it's old, there is no need to replace it...if it's working WHY replace it with an alternator of unknown quality.....(aka auto parts store "rebuilt" unit). If it's making noises....replace the bearings....if it's charging erratically, replace the brushes.....everything else is static and doesn't wear out.........just my opinion.......rebuild it yourself........
BOB RENTON
 
The @cudaize alt came in today. He had to do a repair where they had a dual field conversion on it before, but this one is a correct date code and obviously much nicer looking than what I have now. My underhood spruce up for this year is coming together nicely.

Thanks to Mike!

View attachment 1844153

View attachment 1844154

View attachment 1844155
That is not actually dated correct for 74 but roundback for 70/71 having both provisions available (single and dual field). Probably replacement for those.

The correct date alt will look like this:

1745911693305.png


Which from back looks pretty much similar to the revised version used by Powermaster and Mopar Performance. The brush holder pointing up on pic is diff between both squareback (as is of course the cases to the shape and to the provision for this brush holder)

Look at your factory alt and will notice.

On this article there is the comparison between both squareback alts versions

Gallery: Vying For Voltage With A Mopar 110-Amp One-Wire Alternator - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech
 
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Earliers got the one on the left, laters the one on the right
1745912612811.jpeg


The other one is the same on both
1745912642779.jpeg


And this is a quote from another thread where I posted the brush holder diff for the squareback alt versions. While brushes interchanges, the top holder doesn’t
 
LOL…

WELL I don’t get the lol comment. Is true, that alt is a replacement alt for 70/71 (able to be assembled for previous years too) and is actually set for a single field setup (pre 70). Is not correct for 74, neither on look, or the actual setup.

:)

Is posible to become it into a single wire using one of these mounted on regulators to feed the visible field prong.


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1746004675441.jpeg


Alt needs to be dissasembled yet thought
 
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