Ammeter/voltmeter gauge

[Willy The Kid]

To start I’m not sure what the correct name for it is. But this is the first time I have wired a mopar and they have some stuff chevys don’t have. I’m using a painless kit and I wired the car up but the alternator isn’t charging. According to the kit I’m going to tie it in line with a hot wire that goes to battery source and fuse block. There’s gotta be more to it though. I don’t understand how by doing that it will make the alternator start charging. Excuse my ignorance also I’ve never messed with wiring on a mopar.

 

[Gus chiggins]

To start I’m not sure what the correct name for it is. But this is the first time I have wired a mopar and they have some stuff chevys don’t have. I’m using a painless kit and I wired the car up but the alternator isn’t charging. According to the kit I’m going to tie it in line with a hot wire that goes to battery source and fuse block. There’s gotta be more to it though. I don’t understand how by doing that it will make the alternator start charging. Excuse my ignorance also I’ve never messed with wiring on a mopar.

Never worked with painless before, but I have some known people who call it painful. Forgive the ignorance on my part, do you have any service manuals, and wiring diagrams for the car you are working on?

 

[yella71]

You have a mopar alternator? theres more to it then just the hot wire from the alternator. it needs a external voltage regulator to charge. that also gets wired into the ignition switch . you need to be more specific.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Page 9 and 10 of the manual.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10127.pdf

 

[wagonman]

Never worked with painless before, but I have some known people who call it painful. Forgive the ignorance on my part, do you have any service manuals, and wiring diagrams for the car you are working on?

I have used Painless a few times painful is right. M&H from now on. As for the Amp meter by pass it and run a Volt meter from any keyed 12 volt source.

 

[Willy The Kid]

I have used Painless a few times painful is right. M&H from now on. As for the Amp meter by pass it and run a Volt meter from any keyed 12 volt source.

Yes this is my first time with painless as well as mopar and they are very hard to follow along. They don’t even offer a simple wiring diagram. The system they use is not very smooth. But yes whatever you are trying to tell me sounds like the advice I’m looking for. You are telling me to bypass the factory one because it’s a fire hazard correct? And how do I wire it so It actually charges?

 

[Willy The Kid]

Page 7 and 8 of the manual.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10127.pdf

yes that is the exact instructions I’m using. See how it says to just splice it In line with the hot wire? There has to be more than that. I’m missing something obvious I’m sure

 

[BeepBeepRR]

yes that is the exact instructions I’m using. See how it says to just splice it In line with the hot wire? There has to be more than that. I’m missing something obvious I’m sure

It was pages 9 and 10 not 7 and 8. I was looking at the section number.

Maybe this will help you.
http://www.mopar1.us/charge.html

Mopar Charging Systems

• up to 1969
  Diagram #1 shows the basics of the early alternator / voltage regulator (VR) design. There are 2 brushes in the alternator, each one has a field terminal, one is labeled "FLD", the other is labeled "GND". The GND brush is grounded with the brush mounting screw. the other brush is the (+) brush (or field) and attached to it is a green wire that routes over to the voltage regulator (which is behind or near the brake master cylinder) this green wire is connected at the voltage regulator at the "FLD" connection. The other connection on the regulator is a blue wire with a female plug end. This is the "IGN" Ignition side.
  
  Basically, the voltage regulator completes the charging circuit and allows the alternator to charge the system. When a certain preset voltage is obtained, the regulator "opens" (or turns off) the circuit until the electrical system's voltage drops below a certain point, then it turns on again. The old Voltage Regulators are repairable and rebuildable. The 1969 Dodge Shop manual (available from Year One) details how to do this. If you think your regulator is failing, open it up and clean the "points" with some emory paper or light sandpaper. Sometimes these points get corroded and this stops them from working.
  
  NOTE: in dia. #1, the FLD is generally green, and the IGN wire is Dark blue on stock Chrysler wiring harnesses.
  
  
  
  dia. #1
• 1970 and up
  • In 1970 Mopar switched from an analog type voltage regulator to a transistorized regualtor. The basic circuit is completely different. Before the voltage regulator monitored the (+) ignition voltage and opened/closed the (+) Field circuit as needed to maintain a steady voltage. The 1970 design, instead, monitored the (+) field voltage and open/closed the (-) ground field as needed to maintain a steady voltage.
  
  dia. #2
  60's Charging System upgrade using a 70's style Voltage Regulator
  There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a pre-1970 charging system to a newer solid state (transistor) voltage regulator. The list of reasons include:
  
  • Chrysler recommends you switch to a solid state voltage regulator if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
  • If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistor unit. Also, the quality of replacement early style VR's is unacceptable by todays standards.
  • The solid state regulator will have a longer life and need less maintenance.
  Below is a diagram showing how to install a 70's Voltage Regulator on a sixties mopar:
  
  dia. #3
  Basically, a wire is added to the second Field brush on the alternator. On the orignal alternator, this brush is grounded to the case of the alternator, so you'll need to either change the alternator to a 1970 or new style, or adapt the newer brush set to the old alternator. The brush set costs about $5 at your local parts store. The second field wire is connected to the outside plug on the newer voltage regulator. (two plugs, one is in the middle, one is on the outside). The original field wire that ran to the "FLD" plug on the original regulator (green wire) needs to be connected with the wire that ran to the "IGN" side of the original regulator. This wire (both the old FLD and the old IGN) need to be connected to the center plug on the newer regulator as well. One other important thing is, the new regulator must have a good ground (-) signal to its case. Mount the new VR to a fender or the firewall and be sure to sand a little paint off the fender and the case so you have a good ground. If there isn't a good ground to the new regultor case, the charging system will not work properly!
  Another wirning diagram.
  
  
  
  
  

 

[MoparGuy68]

You are telling me to bypass the factory one because it’s a fire hazard correct?

That is definitely “real” misinformation..