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Another Camshaft Thread

M

MTGW

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I am building a 360 LA 1989 block into a 408 Stroker. I am using a Eagle 360-408 Kit (Part Number 20604030). 4" Cast Crank, I-Beam Rods, Forged 4.030" ICON -13CC Piston Heads.

I am looking for a good cam/cam kit, but apparently I cannot make a decision. I think what I am shooting for with the cam/stroker kit combo is a cam with 236-246* on Intake and 244-254* on Exhaust, with a Valve Lift around .580". I'd like that classic chop, so LSA around 106-108*. I am using ported stock heads, and I understand that this is a limitation, but so is my budget atm. I have a 750cfm 1411 Edelbrock and a Mopar Performance intake.

The motor is paired with a 727 and a 8 3/4 with 3.55s.

I apologize for the repetitive thread, I know there are a ton on here.

Thanks in advance.
 
The way I approach factory small block heads used with “biggish” cams is, get the valve spring situation sorted out first(for a cam along the lines of what you’re thinking), then nail down the cam after you know how to make it work with your heads.

Additionally, big lumpy tight lsa cams and Ede carbs often don’t play that well together.
 
PRHeads said:
The way I approach factory small block heads used with “biggish” cams is, get the valve spring situation sorted out first(for a cam along the lines of what you’re thinking), then nail down the cam after you know how to make it work with your heads.

Additionally, big lumpy tight lsa cams and Ede carbs often don’t play that well together.
Click to expand...

Are there springs that wouldn’t work with the heads themselves? I suppose I was leaning toward a cam kit for this reason… something along the lines of a Hughes Whiplash kit or a Comp Cams K Kit.
 
I assume this car is intended for mostly the street.

I'd suggest a LSA of 110*. This will give you more torque down low so it's not a dog to drive around at low RPM.
Everybody wants to go for race type specs, but in reality spend most time at low RPM cruising around. If you are going to cruise frequently, stick to LSA of 110*
 
HawkRod said:
I assume this car is intended for mostly the street.

I'd suggest a LSA of 110*. This will give you more torque down low so it's not a dog to drive around at low RPM.
Everybody wants to go for race type specs, but in reality spend most time at low RPM cruising around. If you are going to cruise frequently, stick to LSA of 110*
Click to expand...

You would be correct. Will do, thank you for the advice.
 
I have a some what similar combo. Though it has the standard stroke. It has an old Crane hyd roller 222/230, 112 lca. 1.6 rocker so lift is .543"/.563". Ported factory heads 2.02" intakes, LD 340 intake, Holley 650 dp, TTI headers and exhaust, 9.0-1, 3.55, 2.47 1st gear 4 speed. It's in a 73 Challenger. Drives great. Good low end, idles decent at about 800. Has gone 12.7@107 thru exhaust, air filter in place, 100% street trim. With slicks and a 4.30 (no other changes) 12.5@110. Runs on 87 octane to boot.
Doug
 
You don't widen the LSA for more low end tq, you reduce duration. The smallest cam in the Crane cams catalog has a 500-4000 rpm power range. It does not have a 116 LSA, it has a 104 LSA, below &........ from Erson cams.

img062.jpg


img295.jpg
 
More duration moves the peak horsepower values to a higher RPM. So a lot of duration is good for a drag racing car. So more limited duration is good for a street car. I fully agree with @Geoff 2

By the way, advancing any given (typical street) cam a couple of degrees helps low end torque.

Having said that, LSA, of course, also affects engines. A very wide LSA is really best for an engine that will only see race duty and at very high RPM. On the other hand, a very narrow LSA will have poor vacuum at idle and not be good off idle. So putting around town and at very low RPM a narrow LSA will have poor horsepower and torque off the line (transition from idle) until RPM builds up.

There is a good reason a lot of cams are ground at 110 LSA. It is a good overall compromise.
 
The 89 360 should be the factory roller cam block. There is no reason not to take advantage of that. Use factory style lifter with the factory holddowns and the spyders. There are not to many if any off the shelf cams available for this. Both Bullet and Powell have the long snout blanks for whatever grind you want. That way you can run the mechanical fuel pump. Over on FABO I see people cheaping up and putting flat tappet cams in the roller blocks-what a waste! And then you have to worry about the dreaded cam break-in again.
 
lemondana said:
The 89 360 should be the factory roller cam block. There is no reason not to take advantage of that. Use factory style lifter with the factory holddowns and the spyders. There are not to many if any off the shelf cams available for this. Both Bullet and Powell have the long snout blanks for whatever grind you want. That way you can run the mechanical fuel pump. Over on FABO I see people cheaping up and putting flat tappet cams in the roller blocks-what a waste! And then you have to worry about the dreaded cam break-in again.
Click to expand...
thank you for the response. Are you saying I should just keep the current cam, unless I get one custom ground?
 
Get a custom grind, although, I don't know how big you can go. There has been discussion over on FABO before on that. You would have to get a hold of the cam grinders and ask them. Bullet had the long snout blanks a few years ago, and I contacted Powell just recently and he had them on hand. But my stuff is more highway drivers, not big stuff like you need.
 
lemondana said:
Get a custom grind, although, I don't know how big you can go. There has been discussion over on FABO before on that. You would have to get a hold of the cam grinders and ask them. Bullet had the long snout blanks a few years ago, and I contacted Powell just recently and he had them on hand. But my stuff is more highway drivers, not big stuff like you need.
Click to expand...
Thank you again for the response.. tried contacting Hughes, but they were unsure since I didn’t have much data I could give them. First engine with a bigger cam so I have no idea what I need to be looking or watching out for.
 
496 polara said:
Better to build for torque on a street car IMO and you will have plenty.

DODGE Summit Racing SUM-5776 Summit Racing Equipment® Pro Mopar Hydraulic Roller Cams | Summit Racing

Ken @ Oregon Cams does a lot of small block hyd rollers and you have our very own @PRHeads to guide you.

The easiest thing to do is over cam an engine.Take what you think you want and go one maybe two sizes smaller on a street car. Ask me how I know. :screwy:
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info. That definitely gives me e a great idea, and ballpark. I was looking at the Comp Cams 20-670-4. With stock rockers, 1.51, they advertise .474/.474. If I upgrade to 1.6 rockers, that value would be closer to .560?
 
That one is a hydraulic roller cam.If you want to run a flat tappet hyd cam then no.If you have a roller cam block then yes as long as you have the roller lifters,correct valve springs,etc.
 
Thank you for the help. I emailed Summit about their cams, and for help with springs. I’m going to go with the summit cam, and upgrade to 1.6 rockers. They recommended Howard’s Cams Valve Springs 98432. Any other recommendations or are these good?

I’ll have to go measure my OD and ID of my current springs I’m sure.

TIA
 
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