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Another sending unit bites the dust.

dfrazz said:
I have not found any repo unit that works, including Mancini. Have yours rebuilt or pay for an NOS. And yes, a DMT gasket and thick ring is a must. Mine works somewhat, usually 1/4 tank off but I always conservatively track mileage and don't push it.
Click to expand...
I emailed Mancini today to verify the part number for my 69 GTX. They sent me links for early 60's (not 69) sending units. Then they sent a link for an AMD gas tank. Who was asking for a gas tank - not me. This is exactly the reason why I pull back and rethink thngs further.
 
oldchevelle541 said:
Had a few minutes today to recheck size of fuel lines. I am attaching 2 pics of which shows the originality of the sending unit. Very crusty and dirty. I used a set of calipers to measure outside diameter of both lines and to my surprise the main output fuel line is 5/16" OD. It measures the same at the carb as well. The adjacent vent line is 1/4" OD. If anyone out there has a true survivor or a manual can you verify my findings. I just assumed it was a 3/8" out let line all along. I am glad I did not order anything yet.

View attachment 2017285

View attachment 2017286
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Next Step - will get back under car and clean off sending unit flange to look for a part number. This was an early build car with auto and open rear 3:23 so it is possible they put in a 5/16" line but I have to really confirm. Will post part number should I find one.
 
If the sender has a 1/4" return line, then it will have a 3/8 outlet. Now why is always the question, as even my '70 Superbird only has a 5/16 line to the fuel pump! Most did...
 
My fuel gauge was failing when I first got my '69 GTX. I too lived the "Fill frequent" route. I have a new Dorman sending unit that I wasn't enthusiastically looking forward to using. I drained the tank. And because of scheduling circumstances I left empty for a few days. I was forced to move car, thus put new fuel in. And you can probably guess. The gauge started working. I went under the impression that the float probably had a crack. Thus fully cleared with the empty tank. I was anticipating the float to fill again, thus sink to bottom of tank. And register as on empty, once again.

That was two years ago. And from my math the gauge is still very accurate.

I know "Self healing" is not ideal. But thought I would share my episode.
 
oldchevelle541 said:
Next Step - will get back under car and clean off sending unit flange to look for a part number. This was an early build car with auto and open rear 3:23 so it is possible they put in a 5/16" line but I have to really confirm. Will post part number should I find one.
Click to expand...
Just got some crude off the unit and saw the pentastar imprint and a few letters (see pics) but no part number. I noticed on the reproductions there is not a 5/16" line available with a 1/4" vent hence this must be a 3/8" unit that was hooked up to a 5/16" body fuel line. Here are pics.
IMG_3691.jpeg
IMG_3693.jpeg
IMG_3694.jpeg
IMG_3698.jpeg
IMG_3700.jpeg
IMG_3708.jpeg
 
oldchevelle541 said:
Just got some crude off the unit and saw the pentastar imprint and a few letters (see pics) but no part number. I noticed on the reproductions there is not a 5/16" line available with a 1/4" vent hence this must be a 3/8" unit that was hooked up to a 5/16" body fuel line. Here are pics. View attachment 2017322View attachment 2017323View attachment 2017324View attachment 2017325View attachment 2017326View attachment 2017327
Click to expand...
BTW - does the locking ring flange look standard to you - It looks different to me that what online pics look like.
 
Cojohnso1 said:
My fuel gauge was failing when I first got my '69 GTX. I too lived the "Fill frequent" route. I have a new Dorman sending unit that I wasn't enthusiastically looking forward to using. I drained the tank. And because of scheduling circumstances I left empty for a few days. I was forced to move car, thus put new fuel in. And you can probably guess. The gauge started working. I went under the impression that the float probably had a crack. Thus fully cleared with the empty tank. I was anticipating the float to fill again, thus sink to bottom of tank. And register as on empty, once again.

That was two years ago. And from my math the gauge is still very accurate.

I know "Self healing" is not ideal. But thought I would share my episode.
Click to expand...
That makes total sense so if you just had a new brass float tube maybe the old one works. The thing I tried however was to elevate my float arm from empty position to where it would be close to full using a long non-conductive road inserted via filler neck. I could feel the float. Turned the key to on and nothing. If needle would have moved I would buy just the float tube and get everything working again.
 
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