anyone have manual brakes with disc front?

[chattacuda]

I am in the middle of installing a manual master cylinder on my 70 Satellite. It is a factory power disc/drum car. I was told by someone that should know, that I was making a mistake, wouldnt be able to stop the car, Mopar didnt sell manual disc brake B bodies, etc. I looked at some parts places and see a manual master cylinder listed for a 70 B body with front discs. Anyone know anything about this subject? It just doesnt make sense to me, but I am often wrong!

 

[fatecaptured]

From what I've read from Andy Finkbeiner's book, it's all about matching the right master cylinder bore size to the system to make it work. I have put a manual master on my car, but haven't driven the car to tell you how it works. I'm sure their's people who have experience with the manual disc break's.

 

[daredevil]

I would think if you used an adjustable proportioning valve anything is possible.As long as its a disc manual m/c

 

[64SF]

Rock Auto shows several listings for a manual master cylinder for your application.

 

[Montclaire]

I would use the newer style master, but have no fear, the car will stop fine. In my case, it stopped better, and you have much more control. The pedal effort was minimal, just need a few trips to get used to it. I encourage the swap. Make sure you source a disc/drum prop valve (sounds like you already have one), you'll also need to change the pushrod. Check out arengineering.com for the mounting block for the master, and read disc-o-tech on the mopar action website. I would skip the adjustable in-line valve as long as you have the factory prop valve.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Your friend is full of something that comes outta the south end of a north bound horse. It will work just fine as long as the proper proportioning valve is used, just like daredevil already pointed out. ....and it may well work great with the one that's already there. You're thinkin too much. Just make the swap and see how it works. I bet you'll be surprised.

 

[Budnicks]

I'm with Rusty.... I've had them on a few of my RR's, never stock OEM applications, always aftermarket pieces, but I had SSBC manual disc. front brakes on my last 68 RR, I went 156mph in the quarter, had no problems stopping ever, even while street or in the mountains driving, there is a slightly higher effort with the foot & leg, but much better feed back, than power-brakes IMHO & I will have them, the exact same style, SSBC front drum to disc. conversion kit, on my current 68 RR project, they come with a proper sized/style of M/C & an adjustable Proportioning valve for the rear brakes & all the appropriate pieces to install, on drum spindles... I will upgrade to drilled & slotted rotors, my old ones were just slotted, not drilled, still far better stopping, than the front 11"x3" drums the cars came with... I will have the whole 68 RR front stock suspension for sale, "cheap"except the K-Frame, torsion bars & spindles, also complete new poly bushings & oversized Aluminum strut rods, never installed either sets, with poly bushings, If anyone is interested... PM me...

 

[moparmarks]

I've build several cars with manual disc and I could put your head into the dash in everyone of them. My BB Dart and 71 RR are going to have manaul 4-wheel disc.
When running a high lift cam a booster is useless without a vacuum pump.

- - - Updated - - -

Same with a Rack-Pinion steering. Manual all the way.

 

[kursplat]

getting rid of the brake booster is one of the things at the top of my list anytime i get a "new" Mopar. sooo much nicer to drive. also, don't worry about the stock portioning valve. use the correct manual MS and it will work just like with the booster. you will need the correct brake rod, and make sure you get the rubber piece that goes on the end that inserts into the MS. also know that bore size affects peddle stroke

good luck

 

[Meep-Meep]

My 69 GTS was a manual drum car that was converted to the single piston discs and the master is a 1" bore standard issue disc type. It stops fine but does require a bit of pedal effort for a hard stop.

And as for no factory manual disc MoPars? Well, I had a buddy back in the 80's with a 67 383 S Barracuda and it had 4 piston KH with no booster. The car was very original, and being this was so long ago, I doubt there was any tampering.

 

[moparmarks]

A-bodies came with manual disc but not B's and E's
Meep-Meep you might try a 15/16" master.

 

[Mr Belvedere]

An MC with either 7/8" or 15/16" bore seems to be the recommended size. Anything larger will take a lot more pedal pressure. '78 up and later will be aluminum bodied and I'm not sure when the plastic reservoirs came into play...way lighter than the older MCs.

 

[cngordon]

As a novice to rehabilitating old mopars back into daily drivers I gotta ask what would be a reason for converting a power disk setup to a manual disk setup ?
My one experience so far is converting my 69 Sat from a manual drum to an aftermarket power disk setup and I love the stopping power I have now. Prior to the conversion the car was quite dangerous to drive while the newer cars could all stop in about 60% of the distance that I could.

 

[chattacuda]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I am going to install the 1" master cylinder ( I have one in the shop) and go from there. For those that asked, the power booster prevents me from removing the #7 plug on the hemi AND it has a 292 duration cam with 108 overlap and there just isn't much vacuum assist there for the booster to help. The car is a factory disk/drum car so it already has the front/rear bias setup in the brake block. I will let everyone know how it stops. thanks again for all the feedback. I really appreciate it.

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A-bodies came with manual disc but not B's and E's
Meep-Meep you might try a 15/16" master.

This is exactly why I was told not to do the swap. That the engineers did not offer them in manual brakes for a reason. I guess we will see.

 

[superbeegrandprix]

my 1970 super bee was ordered with manual disc brakes,i have no problem stopping at all.ive never been in an emergency situation with it thank the lord!but many cars of that era were equipped with manual brakes ,i believe due to higher lift camshafts that dont produce alot of vacum.thats the only advantage to manual over power.a high lift camshaft can cause trouble with vacum opperated power brakes ,drive safely!i see people posting that b bodys didnt come with manual disc brakes ,my fender tag and build sheet say that at least mine did.

 

[moparmarks]

Could we see your tag? Would prove Galen wrong. His book states that power was required with disc on B,C and E -bodies. Myself, I have never seen or heard of a manual disc B is 40 years. If it is true then you have one rare car.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Would prove Galen wrong.

It certainly would not be the first time. ;)

 

[Meep-Meep]

A-bodies came with manual disc but not B's and E's
Meep-Meep you might try a 15/16" master.

That's the direction I was heading. I'd like to find a factory MoPar 4 bolt MC in that size though.

 

[chattacuda]

Well, I went with the 1" bore master cylinder and finished the install yesterday. Here is a pic. Certainly looks cleaner than the factory unit. Hopefully get to drive it late next week and see how it stops. Thanks for all the input everyone.

 

[5.7 hemi]

That's what I'm using on my 64 Polara, but I have power brakes and 11.75 disc's in front. That install looks very clean!!!