Thats the one I tried to link above, its targeted to hobbyists so probably fine.
Anyone into 3D printing?
- Thread starter A70Runner
- Start date
My customer printed a suppressor for one of my .22 semi autos. Super quiet
SLANTFISH
Member
I use a Qidi Q1, it does high temp filaments and has great print quality, I have over 500hrs of mostly trouble free printing.
I use it to make custom fender tags and I'm working on a new product, '70 Rallye wheel center caps that weigh 1/3. The initial design work is done, just finalizing some details. I use ASA for all this for it's UV, weather and temp resistance
I use it to make custom fender tags and I'm working on a new product, '70 Rallye wheel center caps that weigh 1/3. The initial design work is done, just finalizing some details. I use ASA for all this for it's UV, weather and temp resistance
- Local time
- 1:08 AM
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 20,359
- Reaction score
- 45,192
- Location
- Surrey, B.C. Canada
$749 on the Canadian site.
Canada Computers & Electronics is still showing them for $499 here.
Well damn!$749 on the Canadian site.
- Local time
- 1:08 AM
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 20,359
- Reaction score
- 45,192
- Location
- Surrey, B.C. Canada
Thanks for the tip, I wasn't aware of that store. I see that there are some of them in my area.
MJF_
Well-Known Member
Could you make 1968 style fendertags?
SLANTFISH
Member
I'll have to play with it later today and see if I can do the small font, if the small letters turn out decent I would need a physical sample tag to get millimeter precise dimensions for the initial design layout. The biggest challenge on these is getting good crisp numbers and letters at such a small scale, if that works out the rest is straightforward.
So far I've done multiple '69-'73 A, B And E bodies and a few 'custom words', with my favorite being a Superbird.
SLANTFISH
Member
Well that was a fun challenge. I didn't think the small fonts would work out well, I'm a bit surprised that they look halfway decent. Do these look like they might be acceptable? If anybody is in the Denver area and has a tag that I can get better measurements from it would help nail down the design a little better because this was purely off of visual pictures
- Local time
- 1:08 AM
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 20,359
- Reaction score
- 45,192
- Location
- Surrey, B.C. Canada
Having now read the book that I mentioned in a previous post, I can't really say that I would recommend it. It's too sparsely written and I'll be looking for a more detailed instruction book.
There are quite a few online sources and sites with downloadable programs though, and here are some of them:
This is one of the better known places:
Support - Bambu Lab
https://makerworld.com/en?from=bambulab.com
3D models database | Printables.com
https://cults3d.com/
3D model community. Search & download free 3D models. Share 3D models
CREALITY CLOUD - The All-in-One 3D Printing Platform
And finally, a site that is dedicated to 3D printers that replicate more 3D printers.
RepRap - RepRap
There are quite a few online sources and sites with downloadable programs though, and here are some of them:
This is one of the better known places:
Support - Bambu Lab
https://makerworld.com/en?from=bambulab.com
3D models database | Printables.com
https://cults3d.com/
3D model community. Search & download free 3D models. Share 3D models
CREALITY CLOUD - The All-in-One 3D Printing Platform
And finally, a site that is dedicated to 3D printers that replicate more 3D printers.
RepRap - RepRap
Online resources are definitely the way to go, but also I say just jump in and do it. You can start crude and refine your skills from there, at least for me jumping in the deep end for that kind of stuff has usually worked out. Designing on tinkercad.com is free, whatever you design you download to your computer and process it in also free slicing software. Even without a printer the slicer will show you how it would be printed so you can educate yourself with just a small time commitment. This all assumes you have a decent computer of course. You can do the tinkercad part on an iPad too.
Nice, do you think the retaining ring will work with the stock holder? Two of mine popped the spot welds.
Ok I'll give it a try.
I can't find @CHARGER_VNZ_RT's post anymore so dunno what sup with that but I tried the headlight retainer today. Just a rough print with no post processing. I should have processed it, it was a little tight on the bulb and when screwing it in I broke a tab. Its still 10X better than the damaged stock one and doesn't wobble at all.
I'm gonna leave it on as is all summer to just see if the heat causes any issues or if the other tabs break. Its not like it will really bring down the looks of my car
I'm gonna leave it on as is all summer to just see if the heat causes any issues or if the other tabs break. Its not like it will really bring down the looks of my car
71Beeper
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 4:08 AM
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,174
- Reaction score
- 1,862
- Location
- Stoney Creek, Ontario
I'm pretty sure that @Canadian1968 does some 3-D printing.
He makes an awesome HEI mount that replaces the factory electronic ignition box.
He makes an awesome HEI mount that replaces the factory electronic ignition box.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
Thanks for shout out, and yes I am constantly 3D printing something, if it's not some sort of car part I want to fabricate, it's something for my wife or daughter. I have both resin and FDM printers , each has it pros and cons depending what your trying to create! I would be happy to help anyone out with their journey in to the hobby.
Similar threads
