Anyone know of a source for an “electronic” voltage regulator that puts out no more than 14.2-14.4 volts?

[AR67GTX]

I have 3 various, different electronic voltage regulators that all put out 15.2 to 15.5 volts on my 67 which I consider excessive. Unfortunately my efforts to put a mechanical voltage regulator on it have been unsuccessful and I’ve tried 3 different ones. All produced a rapidly flickering amp gauge and flickering lights. Spent a lot of time on this and been through everything and the alternator without success.

So now I’m on the search for a source of an electronic voltage regulator that reliably puts out in the area of 14.5 volts. Hopefully someone has found one somewhere. If so, can you pass on the info, please.

Should have been clearer - this is on a stock 67 GTX with single field alt., points, etc.

 

[BIG-A]

My suggestion from 1000 mile's away. Probably the field+ wire. Voltage regulators are seeing low voltage and trying to compensate. Also make sure case of VR has a good ground.

 

[AR67GTX]

VR is well grounded with star washers. Wouldn't a bad field wire affect an electrinic VR too? I’ve spent a month on this thing and the only thing not taken apart is the ignition switch internals. If I can find a lower charging solid state VR I’m ready to move on.

But thanks for the reply.

 

[AR67GTX]

On second thought, although I’ve been through all that wiring and connections, I can make a jumper wire from alt field to VR field just for grins to see what happens. I’ve switched out VRs so many times it’s about a 3 minute process.

 

[The Capitan]

The ones that are sold at most auto parts stores today seem to charge at 15v plus. Try a old voltage regulator.

 

[hunt2elk]

If you are running points, find an old style original mechanical regulator. I'm sure I mentioned this before, but every single regulator sold today for the 69 and older cars with electronic guts will regulate around 15 volts. Unfortunate, but true. I got so fed up with them that I converted my cars over to Delco style alternators with internal regulation.

 

[toolmanmike]

@HALIFAXHOPS has the good ones. It's possible your issues are high resistance connections though.

 

[dadsbee]

Remember 15Volts vs 13.5 = less amps through those old thin wires. If it's not boiling your battery or frying light bulbs I certainly wouldn't be getting excited about it. Think of how bright those headlights are.. LOL

 

[AR67GTX]

I have several mechanical VRs and solid state VRs - they mech ones refuse to work on this car. Solid state ones charge fine and smoothly - just not a fan when they are up around 15.5 volts. Been working with Ray (Halifaxhood) on the mechanical ones - we are out of ideas. I am going to try what Big A hinted at above - install a temporary replacement wire from field on alternator to field on VR - but like so many other things I’ve done, I’m not expecting it’s a solution.

I need to find a solid state one that charges at no more than 14.5 volts, preferably a little less.

 

[toolmanmike]

I have several mechanical VRs and solid state VRs - they mech ones refuse to work on this car. Solid state ones charge fine and smoothly - just not a fan when they are up around 15.5 volts. Been working with Ray (Halifaxhood) on the mechanical ones - we are out of ideas. I am going to try what Big A hinted at above - install a temporary replacement wire from field on alternator to field on VR - but like so many other things I’ve done, I’m not expecting it’s a solution.

I need to find a solid state one that charges at no more than 14.5 volts, preferably a little less.

Oh boy and if you have a poor ground you might see upwards of 19 volts. Don't ask.

 

[pnora]

A regulators output is dependent on the regulators input. So if by some chance the input is lower the regulator is going to try to make up for it. If the battery is at lets say 13.5 but for some reason due to voltage loss from high resistance the regulators input is 12.5 its going to want to play catch up and you will see a higher charge rate. Have you ever ran a wire direct from the battery to the regulator?

 

[AR67GTX]

No. Run to the field side I assume? Are you describing clipping a jumper from battery + to regulator while the engine is already running? Might be interesting.

 

[pnora]

No. Run to the field side I assume? Are you describing clipping a jumper from battery + to regulator while the engine is already running? Might be interesting.

Either way on or off. Then run it and see what it does with direct battery voltage to the regulators input.

 

[Jerry Hall]

I waiting patiently for the solution, as I'm having a regulator problem on my 62. I have never seen an alternator arc fire when touching a screwdriver to the center of the back to see if its magnified (indicates alternator working). I had the alternator rebuilt, but the regulator was also taken out. I don't know which one took out the other.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Have you ever ran a wire direct from the battery to the regulator?

this could be a good test for the regulator operation

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

@mattax?

 

[AR67GTX]

Ok, two more experiments I’ll try. It may take a couple days as we have bad weather moving in and I’ve got to move a bunch of furniture to move to make room for a switch over to another internet/TV provider.

thanks

 

[Nacho-RT74]

@mattax?

He is member at FABO (and Moparts, dunno if some other board), but not here

 

[bobsgtx]

If it were me I would do some voltage drop tests to test the wiring and connections. All would be with engine running. The first would be between the battery neg. post and the VR base/ground. Next would be between battery pos. to the VR. ING. terminal.There are more you could do but these will make sure your pos. and neg/ ground at the VR are good.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Load light is your friend with say a weak splice, ohm meter usually wont show it.