B-body disc swap, Córdoba to road runner??

[4mulas]

B body brakes interchange - Córdoba/road runner

Do 1979 Córdoba brakes work on a 69 road runner? IE: is a Córdoba a B-body and do all the parts interchange without figment issues onto a 69?

Also what does a guy need to change for drum to front disc conversion, I know about A-Body swaps for example you need to change upper control arms, spindles, master cyl, pro valve etc...

What is required on a B body swap??

Thanks in advance for your reply.....

 

[Billccm]

I converted recently using the Dr Diff kit, which I believe is based on the 1976 Aspen/Volare front disc system. My conversion was painful and took way too long (you can read it in this forum's section).

Swap is steering knuckles, porportioning block, and master cylinder. I could not get all of the lines loose from the original porportioning block, and someone in the past had rounded off the tube nuts at the rubber lines. Hence, all new lines for the brake system, and I DO NOT recommend InLine Tube for these parts.

My brakes are great and I'm more than satisfied with the finished product. Having said that, if I had to do over again I would have invested in musclecarbrakes.com solution. Less painful, less to go wrong in the upgrade. Friend I work with has the musclecarbrakes.com on his 1969 Chevelle and they work really well.

Let us know what you decide and how the project goes.

 

[gkent]

The conversion the OP is doing is simple and easy, using all Mopar parts.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

4mulas - yes, it can be done, but you should research it. I also DO NOT recommend the stainless steel lines from Inline Tube. I used them and if you have to do any type of modification the SS lines are a PIA to cut/re-flare. I think I'd go with the normal soft steel if I did it again.

It's been a long time since I upgraded my brakes and I stared with power disc up front. However, from what I recall, the Codoba rotors are a little larger diameter and I've "heard" that's a good upgrade. It is not a 1-for-1 direct swap. Of the top of my head, you may need to change steering knuckles (spindles) and do "something" with how the caliper bolts up (larger rotors, so they need to be moved outwards a little). For sure you'll also need a new master cylinder and likely a new brake booster and definitely a new proportioning/metering valve. FYI- the Inline Tube proportioning/metering valves are total junk (as me how I know). It's a lot of work, but can be done for sure.

 

[Tori]

Is there anything wrong with using the conversion kits that just provide a new bracket for caliper mounting ? - where you retain your original drum spindles and whatnot ?

 

[Billccm]

Is there anything wrong with using the conversion kits that just provide a new bracket for caliper mounting ? - where you retain your original drum spindles and whatnot ?

From my research, it depends on if you have 14 inch wheels, and require front, or rear mount. I could not get a definite answer from the vendors on use with my 14 inch wheels and rear mount. Some reply vague answers such as ".....yes you will need to check fitment after installing..." and others said rear mount applications were not supported, etc. My Road Runner has the front sway bar and required rear mount calipers.

 

[gkent]

You were getting much better advice on Moparts !!!

 

[Kernel Sanders]

The short answer is YES.

You need the disk brake spindle first and foremost. yes the ABody guys will also need the upper control arm due to the change in ball joint (or an adapter from DrDiff) but for you with a BBody, you DONT need to change your upper control arm as you already have the right sized ball joint.

As for the caliper adapter, there are two sizes and they both bolt up to any of the spindles... one for the 10.89" disk and the larger 'Cordoba' adapter for the 11.75" disks. Here is the tricky part, both sizes come in two brake pad & calliper styles... 'Pin' or the more popular 'slider', you need to match the adapter/pads/calliper to either of the two types but as I mentioned, both types work with all spindles

(oh, not talking any Cbody/van or trick parts here as none are compatible. Only A and E Body or 73+B, R, F, M and J Body see spindle comparison: http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml )

Yes you also need the appropriate sized disks which use the same bearings and seals and dust backing plates for all the spindles.

If you use the 11.75" disks you must use 15" rims minimum

AND yes DEFINATELY need the Proportioning valve and possibly the master cylinder though I have heard people successfully using the older. personally I'd change it.

Hope I didn't miss anything

 

[Tori]

Kernel Sanders, was the first paragraph for the OP ?

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Yes because he mentioned Abodys... I guess the explanation is a little off Bbody topic.

My brain just goes off sometimes lol

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Tori, I re-read a little and just wanted to add that I don't know anything about any kits letting you keep your drum spindles. There may be but I have no experience with them

 

[gkent]

By the time you pay for the "kit" you've spent as much as a set of spindles.

 

[gkent]

Just went over to the Dr. Diff site. Hardly seems worth the hassle of searching for and using old rusty crap when you can buy new from him. Brand new spindles for $155. is fair, $90. for the large rotor caliper brackets is fair. If you want to save a few bucks, the calipers and rotors can be found cheaper in auto parts stores but getting it all at once from a single source can also save some hassles.

 

[Billccm]

I recommend the Dr Diff kit if you want front disc brakes. Dr Diff supports what he sells; I never went longer than 12 hours to get a email reply, and most of the time I got a email reply within an hour including weekends.

The scarebird kits work well (friends have these on their B Bodys that had 10 inch drums). I don't like the hodge podge of Lincoln, chevy cavalier, and F150 components to make up the front disc system.

 

[gkent]

Keep it all Mopar and you'll never have to worry about what replacement parts to buy - you may forget the year or model but taking in an old part and knowing its Mopar at least gives someone a place to start!

 

[Tori]

I hear what you guys are saying, but none of that bothers me, especially considering what i'm putting it on.
However, by the time i buy the Scarebird kit for $176 then all the other parts needed to go along with that conversion, I'm basically the same $ as to buy this more complete kit that has different spindles and hoses.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/mopar-A-B-E...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

[Billccm]

For $200 more you get a master cylinder and porportioning block from Dr Diff. Everything in one kit.

 

[Tori]

Thanks, I haven't done the math on those pieces yet, (haven't decided on which to buy yet) but that does seem like the smart move.

Thanks for the heads up.

edit: I see his kit also has SS lines. Thumbs up !

 

[gkent]

I'm not sure if those are the large rotors - I can't recall what the caliper bracket looks like. maybe someone else will chime in on that.

I'd be more inclined to deal with Dr Diff simply because he hangs out on the Mopar sites and is easy to get hold of one way or another and is a genuine Mopar guy. FWIW he's also out west close to the OP ... hell, you could probably drive down and pick the stuff up !!!

 

[Tori]

Having just looked at his site, the $600 kit has the 11.75" rotors. But, i didn't see a kit that includes a master cyl.