B-Body Inspection...

[stuka1166]

Hello all...I am a Mopar aficionado, and looking to buy a B-Body in the next couple months. Is there a "guide" or advice on where to inspect the body, for normal trouble or filler areas. I bought a 68' Roadrunner a few yrs back, and trusted an appraiser without inspecting the car myself, before buying. It was full of mud, and don't want to make that mistake again...Would buying a paint depth meter help ?? I belong to a Mopar club, but no one has the time to go with me to look at a car, yet they are the first ones to point out flaws. I don't mind spending $$ to buy a solid car, I just don't want a basket case hidden under the paint. Thank you !!!

 

[moparnation74]

I inspect areas all over the car.....as long as the owner is willing to allow this.....A negative reaction talks miles.....

What you hope for is a relative same number +/- a little on all panels......Fluctuations on a single panel will deduce some type of body repair....Divide the car in half and do driver side of hood-fender-door-rocker-roof-1/4-driver side of decklid...do multiple points on each area.....then move to the passenger side.....

All cars have some filler when restored and it just depends on the mils found as to whats acceptable and what is not an acceptable thickness.....

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-P...=1526176786&sr=8-2&keywords=paint+depth+meter

 

[Ron H]

Any significant restoration should have been logged by photos. Anyone who might have interest in buying mine will see a hundred or more photos of every section of the car inside and out. If it's original or older resto you develop some "eye" looking at the car. If you know a body guy have a chat with him on this I got some great advice; not the end all but better odds.

 

[PP1RT]

I have had an appraiser/inspector come look at a car i was selling several years ago. He had no idea what he was doing and spent more time looking at trim. I kept trying to point out the trouble spots (rust) but it didnt seem to matter to him. I emailed the potential buyer and told him not to buy my car or any car that guy looked at. Too many big things left off and too many little things dwelled on.

Post a request here if you need a car guy to look at a car.

 

[Riverdawg]

Wish I knew more that being a novice. I'd like to be able to help you out. Good luck. Do you have an idea of what B-body you're looking for?

 

[69L48Z27]

A flat magnet is a real cheap and easy way to tell if you have trouble areas quickly. Something like a refrigerator magnet. My inspection kit consists of a small but extremely bright flash light and a Rock Auto magnet, the ones that come in nearly every order.

If the magnet sticks to the lower quarters and rear lower front fenders you should have a pretty good car. Shining the flash light up in the trunk area will show any spliced in quarter panels and bonds leaks or drips around the rear window area, depending on the car.

If your in the market for a $0-40k car these are the tactics. If your looking for a good restored $50k plus car then it should be all documented and there should be no surprises as already stated.

If your buddies in your Mopar club pick stuff apart it maybe time to find a new club. But it is a good idea to take a buddy along that will be 'bad cop'. Sometimes you need someone to bring you down when your hell bent to buy something. Nothing like buyers remorse.

Good luck.

 

[YY1]

what years are you interested in?

there are different areas per generation that are more likely to rust.

 

[stuka1166]

I am looking at 68'-70' Road Runners, Coronets (R/T, Super Bee's)...My budget is $30K-$35K. I am also looking into a different Mopar club to join ;)

 

[Riverdawg]

What style, Restored, resto-mod, original, modified?

 

[YY1]

68-70 rusts in the rear windshield lower corners, trunk floor, behind the rear wheels, in front of the rear wheels, and the whole rear wheel arch area. Usually in that order.

More severe but less likely are rear frame horns behind axle, and front horns around the UCA mount area and torsion bar cross member area.

 

[YY1]

...also floorboards around the T bar cross member area.

 

[stuka1166]

What style, Restored, resto-mod, original, modified?

Well, by nature I am a purist...I like restored musclecars...But at my price point, I am looking for a solid driver with no major work needed.

 

[WileERobby]

I gotta laugh at some of these clowns that call themselves appraisers.

 

[watermelon]

not my car. looks like a good buy.

car being sold by forum member Richard C

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/1969-road-runner-coupe.148055/


watermelon

 

[YY1]

This car is a good case study in where 68-70 rust issues appear.

It has nearly all of what I described above.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Dodge...ash=item441e1b6f11:g:KUoAAOSwncla-IDO&vxp=mtr

Check these areas thoroughly with your eyes, fingernails, and a magnet.


Too bad about the listing as it is a factory 383 four speed car in a cool color.

 

[patrick66]

Always keep in mind, an appraiser is NOT a PPI inspector, and vice versa. An appraiser is paid by the car owner to valuate his car...unfortunately, many times, the owner and appraiser collude on a price value, and the appraiser writes the car as valued to that price. Many times, it's way the hell off! Appraisals can get emotional.

An inspector does NOT valuate the vehicle at all! He looks at the car for the BUYER, and will inspect as much of the car as he has access to. He'll point out the good AND bad points with an equal eyeball. Many times, he'll know where to look for all of the numbers, where an appraiser may not. Please do not conflate the two, they are different people.

 

[JoeyD1968runner]

Keep looking on here. The guys here find more reasonable cars than any other site I’ve visited. You may get lucky and have someone like RC wanting to move a piece of his collection or just looking for a change. Patience pays big dividends!!

Joey D

 

[440669superbee]

Definitely crawl around underneath the car. You'll be surprise what you can see from that angle. Most mud jobs can be detected from the backside underneath.