Baby Come Back; '70 Charger Restoration

[rklewis1005]

Going to a 440 sounds great, but what else has to change? I would think a lot of changes = $$$$. K-Frame, Transmission, Axle, Driveshaft, Fuel Lines, Torsion Bars, Wiring Harness? And probably Radiator too? Sorry, sounds like a lot when you are getting close to done. On the plus side, it would give me a chance to catch up to you on my build!

 

[chargervert]

Going to a 440 sounds great, but what else has to change? I would think a lot of changes = $$$$. K-Frame, Transmission, Axle, Driveshaft, Fuel Lines, Torsion Bars, Wiring Harness? And probably Radiator too? Sorry, sounds like a lot when you are getting close to done. On the plus side, it would give me a chance to catch up to you on my build!

The K frame is the same, the tortion bars should be upgraded. He is going to do the fuel lines anyway. I used to buy running 440 C body cars and almost every thing you need is there. Upgrade the cam and valve springs,and do a fresh timing chain and oil pump, add a wind age tray.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Going to a 440 sounds great, but what else has to change? I would think a lot of changes = $$$$. K-Frame, Transmission, Axle, Driveshaft, Fuel Lines, Torsion Bars, Wiring Harness? And probably Radiator too? Sorry, sounds like a lot when you are getting close to done. On the plus side, it would give me a chance to catch up to you on my build!

Can’t forget about the rear springs, motor mounts, brakes, power steering pump, kick down and transmission linkage, exhaust, and probably more odds and ends.

I’d recommend to either have the block repaired or find another 318 block.

 

[rklewis1005]

Can’t forget about the rear springs, motor mounts, brakes, power steering pump, kick down and transmission linkage, exhaust, and probably more odds and ends.

I’d recommend to either have the block repaired or find another 318 block.

@davek There's a 318 here in SC nearby on FBM (1971 Crysler 318) for $100. There aren't many pictures, but the seller has frequent Mopar parts for sale.

 

[hunt2elk]

I'm trying to understand how a machine shop wouldn't catch that a block is cracked? Major bummer, but just put it behind you and move on. I'm thinking it's time for a stroker of some sort .

 

[chargervert]

If they magnafluxed the block they would have found it. Before I put out the cash for my 68 cast Hemi block it was magnafluxed.

 

[davek]

View attachment 1993582

 

[davek]

Thanks guys, if its not one thing it will be another. Bummed out but not wiped out. Dont want to buy from someone I dont know unless I can hear it run. Looking for a crate motor hoping just short block. It will work out. And there was a reason for this,just dont know why. I felt the engine shop should of seen it. Looking for my receipt , I know they were short handed when I dropped the block off. Owner was complaining about it. Life gos on. No matter what I will have to pay so time to move on. I did want to have the original block in it even though its a baby 318.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks guys, if its not one thing it will be another. Bummed out but not wiped out. Dont want to buy from someone I dont know unless I can hear it run. Looking for a crate motor hoping just short block. It will work out. And there was a reason for this,just dont know why. I felt the engine shop should of seen it. Looking for my receipt , I know they were short handed when I dropped the block off. Owner was complaining about it. Life gos on. No matter what I will have to pay so time to move on. I did want to have the original block in it even though its a baby 318.

When I was building the Roach, several times I took one step forward and two steps back, which ultimately cost more money. As unfortunate as this is, at least it was discovered before the engine went into the car and everything connected.

 

[T2R9]

That sucks Dave. As said above it's always something costing more money. My Charger is doing it to me too. Maybe it's a Charger thing???

 

[hunt2elk]

That sucks Dave. As said above it's always something costing more money. My Charger is doing it to me too. Maybe it's a Charger thing???

I can testify that it most definitely is not just a Charger thing, lol.

 

[davek]

Installed the back front fender splash shields, did my dash still need to install vin plate. Crack looks worse then it is,passenger side of block. Think Im going to strip it down to see if cracked
inside. Then go from there.

 

[T2R9]

Glad to hear you are going to have the block checked and fixed. It will be so much cheaper then starting with another unknown block, Plus it will still be numbers matching!

 

[dadsbee]

Great stuff other than that engine Dave. How Da F an engine shop could miss that is beyond belief.!

 

[DeltaV]

It's blanket party time for that machine shop.

What else did they miss? What other things did they do wrong? What other things did they not do that they should have done?

 

[Charles Cook]

Dash looks great Dave.

 

[Kern Dog]

If the crack is down low in the cooling jacket and can be somehow prevented from spreading, could you use concrete ?
Racers use "Hard Blok" to stiffen the cylinder walls in race engines, could this be done in a smaller scale to save the block?
Another thing, and I mean No offense...
Numbers matching and 318 engine are not compatible terms. Nobody in the hobby really places much value on an original 318 engine when even a stock non original 360 or 383 is such a step up in performance.
This is a setback but also an opportunity to build more power with similar reliability.
I rebuilt the original 383 in Jigsaw despite having 3 440 engines here to use. I regret it because it costs the same to build the bigger engine but you're left with less power for the same money.

 

[Triplegreen500]

First, see if the original machine shop will do anything to help make it right.

Personally, I understand wanting to keep the oem block with the car, even if it is "only" a 318. They're only original once. I'm keeping my 70 as untouched as possible, for as long as possible!

That said, years (decades...ugh) ago I popped the 318 in my satellite wagon. I replaced it with a 360/380 magnum crate motor and the car was a BEAST. And...it all bolted right in. The only giveaway was the 10 bolt valve covers.

At that time, I also replaced the 904 with a built 727, and yanked the bench to put in buckets and a pro-matic shifter. I regret tossing the bench now, as I'd love to put the interior back to stock.... but since that engine is long gone (sold it when I got married...shoulda kept the engine and bagged the now-ex-wife), the wagon may get either a genIII hemi...or another magnum small block. And a procharger.

If it were me? See if the shop can/will fix the original block. You can always put a stroker/high compression bottom end in it, and keep the numbers. If not, look for an LA block (318/340/360) or a Magnum motor for an "easy" swap. But I'd stick with a small block - less weight, better handling, fewer chassis mods....and you can get just as much power if it's built right.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'll add to that, a ROLLER 318 or 360 or a Magnum 5.2 or 5.9 is an excellent choice.
Next to zero risk of camshaft failure, the #308 heads of the LA series and the Magnum heads flow best of all years dating back to 1964. You can have a great street engine with 200K durability.

 

[chargervert]

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