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Bad Gas Gauge or Sending Unit? 1969 Road Runner

wild bill

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Hello folks. Got my 69 Road Runner on the road for the first time since its 9 year restoration. I was supprised how nice it handled the road. I am having usual problems: leaks etc. I do have a question as it regards my fuel gauge reading empty. I put in new sending unit in the tank and all new wiring from the sending unit forward. When I connected the (hot?) sending wire to the sending unit the gas gauge started to work. Now it does not work, and neither does the temperature gauge. the Alternator gauge works however. I am thinking my gauge went bad, but i dont know how to test it. I know how to test the sending unit, but not the gauge itself. Is a simple test to see if the gauge went bad? any comments would be helpful. Thanks again.
 
Isn't there a regulator on the back of the cluster? Silver, w/bayonet type of prongs that slides into the back of the gauge housing across the circuit board? If that is bad, there is an electronic version now.
 
Hello folks. Got my 69 Road Runner on the road for the first time since its 9 year restoration. I was supprised how nice it handled the road. I am having usual problems: leaks etc. I do have a question as it regards my fuel gauge reading empty. I put in new sending unit in the tank and all new wiring from the sending unit forward. When I connected the (hot?) sending wire to the sending unit the gas gauge started to work. Now it does not work, and neither does the temperature gauge. the Alternator gauge works however. I am thinking my gauge went bad, but i dont know how to test it. I know how to test the sending unit, but not the gauge itself. Is a simple test to see if the gauge went bad? any comments would be helpful. Thanks again.
The sending unit just sends a ground signal to the gauge. The gauge itself is hot all the time. If it's a stock setup, there is a small section of rubber fuel line from the sending unit to the line going to the carb. There should also be a ground strap connecting the 2 metal lines, I would check that first but since the temp gauge isn't working either, it makes me wonder. You can check the temp sending unit the same way, unhook and ground the terminal, if the gauge works, it's the sending unit. If you rule these issues out, it's likely an issue with wiring. Cetainly not unheard of but it's kind of odd to have 2 gauges go out at the same time.
 
chtampa & bill are dead on. Since you had TWO gages go out (at the same time I'm assuming), the voltage limiter chtampa mentions is a good thing to check. Also....since I just had my gages stop working (except alternator gage) a couple weeks ago, I will also mention that one of the big multi-wire plugs coming out of the steering column (there are two) is good to check too. Check your wiring diagram. On mine, everything looked good, but when I pushed together better one of the wires on the larger steering column plug (pushed inwards, along side of the wire and into the plug, pushing the connector closer together) from both sides of that connection...Viola! all my gages work again.
 
Mine worked on the first road trip and then when I got home it started to read empty. The brass float had filled with gasoline and lost its buoyancy. Replaced the float and all is well now.
 
chtampa & bill are dead on. Since you had TWO gages go out (at the same time I'm assuming), the voltage limiter chtampa mentions is a good thing to check. Also....since I just had my gages stop working (except alternator gage) a couple weeks ago, I will also mention that one of the big multi-wire plugs coming out of the steering column (there are two) is good to check too. Check your wiring diagram. On mine, everything looked good, but when I pushed together better one of the wires on the larger steering column plug (pushed inwards, along side of the wire and into the plug, pushing the connector closer together) from both sides of that connection...Viola! all my gages work again.
yes i have had issues with my steering column (loose) and moves around so i will definitely check there. Iam kind of unclear how to check gas gauge. by grounding "terminal" does that mean take the wire off the gas tank sending unit and ground it out? I am assuming if this is the correct procedure the gas gauge should go to full? it is not reading anything right now. I am going to ck that steering column you mentioned.
 
yes i have had issues with my steering column (loose) and moves around so i will definitely check there. Iam kind of unclear how to check gas gauge. by grounding "terminal" does that mean take the wire off the gas tank sending unit and ground it out? I am assuming if this is the correct procedure the gas gauge should go to full? it is not reading anything right now. I am going to ck that steering column you mentioned.
If you electrically test the gauge or the sending unit remember that they are not 12 volt, so do not hook a car battery directly to them or they will die a painful and smelly death. Of course, exceptions to that rule would be if you were to say just before doing so, either "Watch this" or "Hold my beer".
 
Mine worked on the first road trip and then when I got home it started to read empty. The brass float had filled with gasoline and lost its buoyancy. Replaced the float and all is well now.
was it a new sending unit?
 
If you electrically test the gauge or the sending unit remember that they are not 12 volt, so do not hook a car battery directly to them or they will die a painful and smelly death. Of course, exceptions to that rule would be if you were to say just before doing so, either "Watch this" or "Hold my beer".
Dang! almost made that "Miller" moment. Iam assuming the balast resistor steps volts down? maybe I already fired it.
 
I would pull the gauge cluster, and see is circuit board on the back is damaged, because 2 gauges are not working.
when dash was restored the restorer said he check gauges and the only one that was not working was the tach. He did put in an electronic gizmo on the back of the gauge cluster (silver job that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster, and it says electronic on it i think). all good suggestions, gauges are definitely not my strong suit. i am kind of person who does home wiring and if it doesnt blow fuse I probably hooked it up right! Dang!!!
 
was it a new sending unit?

I gotcha Wild Bill....here's two answers and I'll break it down...sorry if some of this is obvious, but here's the details.

1. You should get your steering column tight. It's your steering. The steering column is held in "mainly" by a black metal plate underneath it. There's two nuts with funky star washers that you can see under the column/dash & right up front. The two studs go through some "white, split, rectangular-looking" plastic spacer things & the funky star washer & nut goes over those two studs.

On that same black metal plate, further down towards the floor, sort of above your left ankle is a bolt (not a nut) that goes through the same type of "white, split, rectangular-looking" plastic spacer thing as the front two nuts/studs. Why the back one is a bolt and the front two are nuts/studs???? Who knows. Anyway, those 2 nuts/studs & 1 bolt hold that whole black metal plate up against the dash.

Looking at that same black metal plate, closer towards the steering wheel, along the bottom, there are 4 bolts (2 on each side) attaching the black metal plate to the steering column itself. Usually at least one of them has a short black ground wire going between it & one of the stud/nuts I've already mentioned...fyi. These are probably the first bolts you'll notice holding the steering column in.

Lastly, down past your feet & attached to the metal floorboard/firewall of the car itself is the lower column bracket. There's a big black metal "floor plate" down there bolted to the floor/firewall with 4 bolts. Where the steering column goes through that big black metal "floor plate", there's a "ring" around it and two bolts hold that "ring" (and the column itself) to the metal "floor plate"

This is everything that holds the steering column itself in the car....so please make sure this is all 100%. Sorry if I'm boring.

2. Sending Unit & Gage: The "sending unit" is really a 1-part-does-3-things piece that's inside your gas tank front/center/on top/just above the rear end u-joint area. It is a)metal tube "straw" where the fuel pump sucks gasoline out of the tank b)a toilet bowl float (thin metal arm with a float on the end, just like inside your toilet) and c) a variable resistor (? I think? rheostat?) ....anyway, and electrical thingy that is connected to the "toilet bowl float" that basically tells how much gas you have in the tank by seeing how high up the "float" is and turning that into a signal that it sends to the gage.

Back by this sending unit (under car, center, top of gas tank, front part) you'll see a fuel line hose (or two) connected and one lonely wire with a "L" shaped push-on & pull-off type connector. That's the wire that sends the signal to the gage.

Disconnect that wire (just pull it off) & run a piece of wire from that "L" connector to either the negative side of the battery or to a good ground (sand a small patch of thick metal under the car somewhere down to bare, shiny metal)...either way, a good "-" ground.

Put the key in the ignition & turn it to "run" (no need to crank it by going all the way to "start", just "run"). If your gage is good (& the wire leading to it) the gas gage should go all the way to "full" and stay there.
 
check your grounds from the tank to the gauge cluster. when there is a mystery electrical problem, check the grounds. not a guarantee but a good practice. bad grounds do some pretty weird stuff.
 
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