Beginner Mechanic General Questions ('69 Charger)

[rikubot]

Hello Mopar friends

I have a bunch of fairly simple questions, and rather than post a bunch of different topics, I figured I'd post a few general questions and hopefully get some tips and pointers.

Have at it, guys! Thanks in advance

1. Should my power brake booster make a "hissing" sound?

2. The passenger side front drum bleed port wouldn't squirt fluid much at all during bleed, what is most-likely the cause?

3. Whats the best way to seal up a tranny pan if I've been having leaking issues with a cork gasket? Torque specs?

4. My Edelbrock (on top of my 440) seems to run like garbage. Does anyone have any tips for adjusting it? Should I do a rebuild kit? (tries to die ou especially in reverse)

5. Where's a good place to look at insurance plans?

6. Rear wheel is stuck to the brake drum, what have you guys had success with breaking them free?

7. Care to share experiences with installing engine and dash wiring harnesses?

8. How badly can an exhaust leak under header affect motor?

These are just a few of the millions of questions I can think of off the top of my head. If you have any input just reply and make my day. Even if you are just replying to call me a dumbass.

- Mike

 

[Photon440]

Hi rikubot, everyone here asks questions. That's what this place is all about. I'll tackle some of yours but I'm sure there will be other opinions.

1. When you say 'hissing' sound, do you mean when you're using the brakes? There's air moving around due to the vacuum line, you can hear it. But if you meant hissing while the engine is running and you aren't touching the brakes, or hissing is heard when you shut off the car then no, that shouldn't be.

2. Blocked line? Crack the line going into the wheel cylinder and see if any more comes out that way. If still nothing, I'd suggest a new rubber hose, especially if it's old.

3. People on here have had luck with composite gaskets. Cork really has a problem if you overtighten the bolts.

4. Running like garbage doesn't say much. Is it just low on power, or always backfiring, black smoke, or what? See #8

5. I have government insurance where I live. Can't help you.

6. Most likely frozen to the centering hole. Spray lube it and hammer away. If you can get under the car, slamming something heavy, like a long 4X4 piece of wood will knock it off.

7. Is this the same engine that came out or are you swapping different families?

8. It can make a big difference, holes in the exhaust change the back pressure which in turn changes the signal at the carb. I had a 455 Pontiac that ran absolutely terrible..popping, backfiring, no power etc. so I was going to throw on another carb. But first I got new exhaust put on to quiet it down, and voila, no other changes and now the engine ran beautifully. It was running too lean with the leaky exhaust. Everything, headers to tail pipe had holes.

Let us know what other things are troubling your car...

 

[Bb70charger500]

1.no
2.well first thing is check to see if there's fluid coming threw the line take the line off the wheel cly and press on pedal,if you get fluid replace your wheel Clyde it's no good .
3.cork gaskets are fine check your pan to see if it is flat where the gasket go's,over the years they loose there shape by being over tourqed .
4.well there could be many issues ,what is your rpm at idel then in gear ? Your idel could just be low .
5.is your car a driver or a show stopper? I just use all state on my drivers. Hagrity when there worth some bucks.
6.kick it very hard on the tire.
7.take lots of pictures so you know where all the wires go.
8. It won't hurt anything ,it's just annoying.
Hope I was helpful good luck

 

[747mopar]

The hissing at the booster and the crappy carb performance could be related, hissing means a vacuum leak which will cause tuning issues as well. Check the hose and grommets for leaks and if nothing the bladder may be shot but if it is your brakes should be hard to push as well.

Is your idle set high enough? Have you tuned the idle mixture screws?

I'd try cracking the hose loose at the drum just like your bleeding it only at the hose, if you get more flow then try replacing the bleeder if not like said before check the hose (if it's old I'd replace them all anyhow).

First thing to check on the pan is straightness, lay it on a known flat surface and look for unevenness. It's very common for those to have been over tightened over the years distorting them to the point they won't seal. You can hammer them back flat but the best fix is a thicker aluminum pan.

Haggerty is a good classic auto insurance company that specializes in classics.

Stuck drums can be a pain, first make sure the parking brake isn't froze up and applying the brakes and back the adjuster off as well. Then start off by applying a significant amount of leverage at the drum working it back and forth, if no luck beat the hell out of it haha. Allot of times beating it back and forth will knock the rust loose.

 

[Car Nut]

3. Whats the best way to seal up a tranny pan if I've been having leaking issues with a cork gasket? Torque specs?

I had the same type of leak, it turned out to be the NSS, replaced and no more leak. The fluid would run along the gasket and pan making it look like a gasket leak.

Have you checked the shift lever seal? This would also look like a gasket leak.

 

[BeatersRus]

you can get a nice alum trans pan at the junkyard,check the trucks n vans for those.

the hissing and the carb problem are more than likely related as guy above said.
theres a big vacuum leak going on.
the exhaust leak isnt helping either.
deffo fix those asap.

as far as knocking the Wheel off the drum,place a block of wood against the rim part and Whammo it with a sledge a few times.
itll fall off.
some people will get under the car and whack them from there,but im not a big fan of direct contact with the rim and a sledge.
plus it takes longer and you are under a car whaling a buncha carp into your eyes.

wiring harness do Not unplug a single wire until you have the Replacement in your hands.
trust me on this....lol

 

[CoronetDarter]

Invest in the factory service manual (FSM) for your car. You'll need the wiring diagrams.

 

[Car Nut]

Invest in the factory service manual (FSM) for your car. You'll need the wiring diagrams.

Don't need to buy one, here's a free copy.

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[451Mopar]

Hello Mopar friends

I have a bunch of fairly simple questions, and rather than post a bunch of different topics, I figured I'd post a few general questions and hopefully get some tips and pointers.

Have at it, guys! Thanks in advance

1. Should my power brake booster make a "hissing" sound?

2. The passenger side front drum bleed port wouldn't squirt fluid much at all during bleed, what is most-likely the cause?

3. Whats the best way to seal up a tranny pan if I've been having leaking issues with a cork gasket? Torque specs?

4. My Edelbrock (on top of my 440) seems to run like garbage. Does anyone have any tips for adjusting it? Should I do a rebuild kit? (tries to die ou especially in reverse)

5. Where's a good place to look at insurance plans?

6. Rear wheel is stuck to the brake drum, what have you guys had success with breaking them free?

7. Care to share experiences with installing engine and dash wiring harnesses?

8. How badly can an exhaust leak under header affect motor?

These are just a few of the millions of questions I can think of off the top of my head. If you have any input just reply and make my day. Even if you are just replying to call me a dumbass.

- Mike

1. Booster should not be hissing. Leakage may be causing vacuum leak and may be related to your carb issues?
2. Remove bleed screw from brake cylinder and you should be able to clean it out with a small drill bit. If fluid still does not flow, it may be the lines to the wheel cylinder.
3. The new style plastic gaskets the factory uses on the 48RE transmissions seem to work pretty good. Leaks can also come from the shifter shaft seal, dipstick tube, rear servo lever shaft, and reverse switch.
4. Check #1 for vacuum leaks. The Carter/Edelbrock carbs, check the float level -> Run engine for a minute to make sure fuel in carb is fresh (not evaporated or boiled away with a hot engine), remove carb top and check if gas level is in the fuel bowls is to the top of the notch of the baffles in the bowls. Check fuel pressure and/or adjust float level. If the fuel level is low, the carb will run like junk no matter what other adjustments you make to it, so the fuel/float level needs to be checked first.
5. Insurance as a daily driver, or as a weekend collector car? Haggerty and other collector car insurance is good if the car is not your primary vehicle. If it is your primary vehicle, then regular insurance companies, but make sure the policy is an agreed to value of the car.
6. Heat the drum around the center hub with a torch (MAPP Gas torch should work), and a few whacks with a hammer. Maybe some WD-40 too, just not at the same time as the torch.
7. Factory Service Manual (FSM) wiring diagrams are really helpful. Where are you in Colorado?
8. The header exhaust leaks are annoying, but usually won't hurt the engine.

 

[rikubot]

@ Photon440,

the hiss sounds like it is coming from the brake pedal area and is constant unless pedal is depressed. The brake booster seems to work but I feel that their is a vacuum leak affecting performance elsewhere as well.

I will disconnect that line tomorrow and see how the fluid flows. If it flows well, I'll check out that wheel cylinder.

I should have been more specific when I said "garbage". It appears to be running rich, has low power, was backfiring for a while before I got the fuel flowing a little better. It had an electric fuel pump near the gas tank that I assumed didn't work so I took it off. The thing does fire up without any pumping of pedal. It has been sitting for a little while so I was told the carb may need to be rebuilt and cleaned, but it has never really ran very well.

For the wheel, I think I'll get a 2x4 and butt it up against the wheel and wail on it with the biggest sledge I can find. I believe it is a ford wheel on there anyway. needs to go lol.

The harness is a brand new one from YO. The motor is a 440 so I bought the big block harness. All my dash wiring is a mess with all aftermarket gauges and very little left factory wiring. I have a new cluster sans a tac on standby. Hopefully it works.

The exhaust system looks like its the original system. Holes in both mufflers and bad passenger side manifold gasket. In retrospect I should have replaced it instead of buying brand new magnums. I would like to do 2.5in pipes with thrush mufflers and R/T tips. Glad and sad to learn that could be affecting performance.

And I just thought of another thing: My steering wheel has a lot of play in it and I heard you have adjust that out. Do I need any special tools for that? Anyone know if a good how-to thread for that?

Thanks Photon440, I hope this info is more specific.

@ Bb70Charger500,

Thanks. You were very helpful. I will check the brake line out and see whats up.

I replaced the gasket with a cheap rubber one from Oreilly's. I siliconed both sides of it and let set for 24hrs. I added fluid tonight and so far, so good. I haven't taken it for a drive yet, but I will tomorrow.

On the wires and tire, I will do just that. I did print off a nice wiring diagram that is very helpful. It looks like its just gonna be a matter of removing ALL of the crap wires the previous offender -I mean owner- left.

@ 747mopar,

I did replace the hose, still have the hiss. I'm guessing a seal in the booster somewhere. Are those difficult to work on, diagnose, and fix?

Will do with the brake line hose.

I laid it on my counter top and it was FAIRLY straight. Not completely flush but the difference wasn't bad enough to alarm me. Very subtle. Plus its all I have now lol. Its a 3in deep pan that came with my rebuild kit.

I looked into Hagerty and they wouldn't give me a quote because it's a driveway car . I may be able to move it to my girlfriend's parents' shed though. I did fib on a quote and said it was a garage car and it quoted me $700 something a year for I think 12 or 15k coverage. I should mention the car is a beater and in slow restoration. There are pics in my gallery.

@ CarNut,

Its good to hear from you!

I think the NSS seal was replaced when it was rebuilt last month. I'm positive it was the seal. It was squishin' out of the gasket and the bolt holes like a mo-fo. I think I overtightened it when I went under there to snug em down after maiden voyage. I will double check that neutral safety switch though as you are wise mopar guru.

Thanks! And thanks for the service manual. Added to favorites.

@ BeatersRus,

I have a deep pan now so I gotta stick to them after market suckers now. I do think if I keep having problems, I will order a nice billet piece. I bet they're pricey! lol

I will work on that header leak ASAP. I don't have the funds for the holes in the mufflers, though. Will fixing the header gasket leak get me by for now?

Will do with the wheel!

And thanks for the heads up. Yeah I'm pretty nervous about losing something in that electrical system, but nothing works for the time being so I don't have much to lose lol. Except ignition!

Thanks!

@ CoronetDarter,

Thanks sir I will do that! Good idea.

@ 451Mopar,

Definitely going to look into that. Would you recommend new booster or fix the old one?

I will probe that bleed port and see if it gets anything moving.

I will check all of those areas, although I think all those seals were replaced during rebuild. I am pretty certain the fluid was coming from gasket and bolt holes but I will double check all that.

Is there a how-to forum you've come across for that kind of carb service? I'm a noob with carbs to say the least.

The car is more of a weekend cruiser/project. I'm just trying to get her solid and complete and enjoy a carefree cruise.

Great idea with the torch. I will try that if the block and sledge fail to jar it loose.

Yes sir I got the diagrams. They are fairly easy to read, thank heavens.

Thanks for all the help 451Mopar! I am from Pueblo, CO. Moved to Ft. Collins, but my car sleeps at my mom's house in Pueblo. How about you?

Thanks everybody for all your help. You are like having living cheat sheets! Let me know if you have any more questions and I appreciate all the help! :headbang:

 

[BeatersRus]

youll be fine with straight pipes even,as long as the headers arent leaking.
fix your brakes and get a new booster,or get yours rebuilt.
check the fuel Pressure coming from tank,you might wanna put the electric pump back on and buy a pressure regulator.
all depends on what you find out.

okay,assuming youve fixed the other stuff,now,
the carb,here im gonna link you to this page,i typed it all out but its way easier to see a pic.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/45638/
make sure you read the Whole page first okay?

speaking of things to do,your distributor being setup right can make the difference between a slug and a motor.
theres a lot more,ie,setting the timing just right,the dis advance just right etc etc,the cam being phased,but lets see what you have for now.
good luck and hey dont let the wiring scare you.

 

[rikubot]

youll be fine with straight pipes even,as long as the headers arent leaking.
fix your brakes and get a new booster,or get yours rebuilt.

Where is a decent place to get this done, and can I do it myself?

Thanks for the link. I had no idea it was that complicated! Very informative, though. I did turn up the idle screw, and it does a lot better at stops and reverse. What should she idle at after warm-up. I have an Edelbrock 1408 600cfm with electric choke, by the way.

speaking of things to do,your distributor being setup right can make the difference between a slug and a motor.
theres a lot more,ie,setting the timing just right,the dis advance just right etc etc,the cam being phased,but lets see what you have for now.
good luck and hey dont let the wiring scare you.

Yikes, another thing I will need to address in the future lol. About the wiring, I'm feelin' pretty good about the dash. More than half of it plugs right in to the cluster anyway. Gonna try to do it without dropping the dash as I'm pretty sure the windshield needs pulled for that. I'm getting pretty excited for the engine harness because I'm fairly certain everything will be working again after a fresh harness treatment. My horn, light, gauges, and gauge lights haven't worked for about ten years so its gonna be awesome to have these again (if all goes as planned).

Thanks Beater!

- - - Updated - - -

I just remembered one more thing:

I replaced a wheel cylinder on my front right, and I've got fresh fluid throughout. My brakes still don't work that great, they definitely won't throw you forward much when you pound them. But will occasionally grab the way I think they should. They are drum all the way around. Any thoughts? I was very careful to get the air out but maybe I didn't. Let me know what you guys have experienced. Also, I've been looking at a kit on ebay for disc (for the distant future). I was told I'd need a new proportioning valve and master for that swap. Anyway, here's the kit if you'd like to speak your mind about it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330762316708?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

[BeatersRus]

brakes wow,i hope one of the Pros here lets us know,cause that sure looks like a great deal there that you linked.
i noted it says from 63 up,wonder if itll fit the 62 b body too.
and if you look to your right on this forum,youll see some companies that are backing this site,
you can get the disc brakes from them as well,and get a % off too for being a member.
the added plus of their kits is Everythings there.

far as drum brakes go,bitd we used blue streak linings i think,now they have Velvetouch?
im not sure been so long since we kept drums on anything.
it deffo sounds like you still have air in there.
theres a reverse pressure bleeder tool thats pretty sick but i of course cant find it on the bay.
heres the same thought but in cheap form.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-ONE-MAN-B...hash=item2ee26ee668&item=201367414376&vxp=mtr
these actually Push fluid thru the lines and remove all air.
winner winner chicken dinner.

the dash again been awhile since we did a charger but i think all we do is drop the steering column and then the cluster pivots out towards you.
if you are rewiring the whole dash take some digicam pics as you go to help yourself on the reinstall.
if you are taking out the dash,well then,i think? there are screws like the 70 has,under the windshield edge.
we are removing one in a 70 coronet this coming weekend,they arent hard,just time consuming.

also,on the wiring..it occurred to me to suggest making sure you clean and check your Dimmer light switch/floor.
its like a connection box as well as being a dimmer and can cause issues.

 

[rikubot]

Here's my latest issue: it seems that no matter how much fluid I seem to push through the system, I keep getting air bubbles from my front right bleed port. When I get heavy on the brake to test them out, the rears lock up and skid, while the fronts seem to slowly grab like dog poop. I feel that they will not do the job in an emergency stop. What could this mean? is my master cylinder in need of replacing/rebuilding? should I look for somewhere where the air is getting in? Like I said, when I get heavy on it, the rears lock up good. Leads me to believe my problem is in the disperment of fluid in the front drums.

also,on the wiring..it occurred to me to suggest making sure you clean and check your Dimmer light switch/floor.
its like a connection box as well as being a dimmer and can cause issues.

^^ Will do!