Best Engine Coolants?

70ChargerRT

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I find all of this talk funny about antifreeze. For 30 years I’ve bought the cheapest green and I’ve always mixed it 50/50. During the winter I always check it. Bought my 7.3 power stroke new in 99 and after 349,000 miles the water pump starting leaking. Never ever have I ever changed before then. It’s always tested good every winter. I’ve got 1 GM with the orange stuff bought new in 2009. 200,000 miles later and it still test good. Never changed it.
 

diesel_lv

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I find all of this talk funny about antifreeze. For 30 years I’ve bought the cheapest green and I’ve always mixed it 50/50. During the winter I always check it. Bought my 7.3 power stroke new in 99 and after 349,000 miles the water pump starting leaking. Never ever have I ever changed before then. It’s always tested good every winter. I’ve got 1 GM with the orange stuff bought new in 2009. 200,000 miles later and it still test good. Ne
ver changed it.
If you've noticed, it ends up being people who think the car is supposed to run at what the thermostat says, ie 180° and don't realize that a 180° is designed to run at 15° over that. And the crowd who think a 160° engine will give them more power than a 195° or even 210° engine. And then the ones like me w a much larger cubic inch engine than stock, w high compression in 120° summer temps. In stock applications, do what is recommended of course. I've changed my '03 Cummins coolant once changing water pump as well.
 

VANDAN

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I run standard 50/50 in my '03. Over 275k miles in the 120° summers pulling 28' tritoon boat and 20' enclosed car hauler through 15 mile 7% grades w a/c on at 70mph. "Never" had a cooling issue. What could possibly be the issue w yours in the N/E?
No issues, just wondering if anyone has input on brand, or special mix ratio, as mine is due now for a change...
 

diesel_lv

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No issues, just wondering if anyone has input on brand, or special mix ratio, as mine is due now for a change...
Use the recommended "type". Brand really is irrelevant. But "type" is very important. 50/50 mix is also what is recommended by every manufacturer.
 

bearman

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Any recomendations for our Cummins Diesels ?
Cummins has their own. Red stuff. But put the by pass filter on it with the additives built in and you can do distilled water and 40% coolant. Buy the test kits and you can watch your coolant closely. The biggest thing i find in diesels is glycol drop out.
 

diesel_lv

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@VANDAN , do not worry about color. There are green, yellow, orange n red antifreezes out there. Not always depicting a certain type. Since 2003 Dodge Cummins have recommended a HOAT (hybrid organic additive technology) type coolant such as Zerex G-05. It is backwards compatible to older Cummins. I do not know which types are incompatible w each other, Google is your friend, but there are a couple types that when mixed will clump up. HOAT is what they come w so use anything that is an HOAT. I use Zerex G-05.
 

RJRENTON

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I find all of this talk funny about antifreeze. For 30 years I’ve bought the cheapest green and I’ve always mixed it 50/50. During the winter I always check it. Bought my 7.3 power stroke new in 99 and after 349,000 miles the water pump starting leaking. Never ever have I ever changed before then. It’s always tested good every winter. I’ve got 1 GM with the orange stuff bought new in 2009. 200,000 miles later and it still test good. Never changed it.
You're testing for the specific gravity of the coolant for freeze protection. The corrosion inhibiting components have long since expired or have been used up. Coolants are changed to replace the corrosion infibiting components and the accumulated solids, both dissolved and suspended, in the old coolant. When the solids reach a certain point, they precipitate out as salts, which can csuse plugged tubes and passages in the engine. Do yourself a favor and replace coolant every few yesrs......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
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70ChargerRT

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You're testing for the specific gravity of the coolant for freeze protection. The corrosion inhibiting components have long since expired or have been used up. Coolants are changed to replace the corrosion infibiting components and the accumulated solids, both dissolved and suspended, in the old coolant. When the solids reach a certain point, they precipitate out as salts, which can csuse plugged tubes and passages in the engine. Do yourself a favor and replace coolant every few yesrs......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTONIve
You're testing for the specific gravity of the coolant for freeze protection. The corrosion inhibiting components have long since expired or have been used up. Coolants are changed to replace the corrosion infibiting components and the accumulated solids, both dissolved and suspended, in the old coolant. When the solids reach a certain point, they precipitate out as salts, which can csuse plugged tubes and passages in the engine. Do yourself a favor and replace coolant every few yesrs......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
I’ve lost 1 water pump in the last 29 years on a 349k mile vehicle . As long as my coolant test good every winter I ain’t replacing it but thanks for the advice anyways.
 

PurpleBeeper

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Hey Ranger, water wetter is...... corrosion inhibitors + dye + surfactant + water. The surfactant lowers the surface tension lower than water has on its own (the hype) which has the unwanted side effect of being very foamy....and foam doesn't cool well and is hard to pump
 

PurpleBeeper

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Sorry but was that a typo about running 70/30 in hot climates?
Nope.....70% water/30% antifreeze (30/70 may make more sense). Look at the back of many antifreeze bottles. It tells you what blend of antifreeze/water you need for freeze protection at various temperatures. In a perfect world, you'd use DexCool 30%, distilled water 70% and a 1/2 bottle of water wetter. It will make your engine run cooler, have ALL the corrosion protection, but the downside is it won't have freeze protection as low as 50/50, but if you live in the desert, who cares about FREEZE protection, you want OVERHEAT protection
 

70ChargerRT

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Nope.....70% water/30% antifreeze (30/70 may make more sense). Look at the back of many antifreeze bottles. It tells you what blend of antifreeze/water you need for freeze protection at various temperatures. In a perfect world, you'd use DexCool 30%, distilled water 70% and a 1/2 bottle of water wetter. It will make your engine run cooler, have ALL the corrosion protection, but the downside is it won't have freeze protection as low as 50/50, but if you live in the desert, who cares about FREEZE protection, you want OVERHEAT protection
Does this only work on Mopars? My brother tried this same mix on his 55 Chevy and it did not make it run cooler.
 

diesel_lv

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Does this only work on Mopars? My brother tried this same mix on his 55 Chevy and it did not make it run cooler.
It works on all vehicles. The amount in minute thought.
Screenshot_20220724-072724_Chrome.jpg
 

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