Best solutions and methods for cleaning (inside) rear end housings

[earlymopar]

Hey Fellas:

I'm doing a complete rebuild of the 8-3/4 rear end from my 65' Dodge. After disassembly, I swabbed out the inside of the housing multiple times similar to doing a gun barrel. While I was able to get 90% or more of the crud, the old gear lube that has set in one location all of these years is like hardened tar (or worse). I've used gas so far and followed up with Castrol Super Clean and still have hard residue in the axle tubes. Hot-tanking is not an option for me so I'm curious what chemical solutions and methods you have found that worked well for you. If I could find large diameter round metal brush I think I could get the rest.

Thanks much,

- EM

 

[69L48Z27]

Either a parts washer or start hosing it down with brake clean.

 

[69L48Z27]

Oh, heavy duty wax and grease remover works too. Body shop stuff.

 

[Ranger16]

Pressure washer with a long wand?

 

[earlymopar]

I do have some brake clean so I'll try that. I'm also going to try a wire wheel fastened to the end of a 3' piece of steel tubing to use as a brush to loosen the hard stuff.
- EM

 

[cryplydog]

take it to the steam cleaner.

 

[zyzzyx]

Keep wetting it down with Gunk Engine degreaser or Engine Brite. Let it soak for a couple of
days and then pressure wash it. If it still won't come out, use some easy-off oven cleaner.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Acetone or paint stripper. Used a wire brush on 50 year old gasket got most of it. paint got the rest.

 

[mmissile]

I have my stuff put into the burn-off oven at my powder coaters, then they blast it.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Why are you getting nuts over cleaning the INside of the diff,what's the diff???

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Aircraft paint stripper works great on hardened oils/grease use it all the time.

 

[earlymopar]

Thanks for all of the suggestions fellas. This is a complete re-do of the rear end. The 3rd member is all new now so the housing is just the next step. I cleaned 90% of the inside with the methods I mentioned and will do the rest after it comes back from the blaster that is blasting the outside surfaces, backing plates and drums. Then paint for those pieces and reassembly. I appreciate all of your help.
- EM

 

[CudaChick1968]

Even though they're only supposed to blast the outside, you WILL have media residue in there afterwards. It would probably be cheaper in the long run to get it powder coated ...

 

[earlymopar]

Even though they're only supposed to blast the outside, you WILL have media residue in there afterwards. It would probably be cheaper in the long run to get it powder coated ...

I made caps for the axle flanges and for the 3rd member and used permatex gasket sealer. I don't expect that I've kept 100% of the sand out but likely 99%. But how the housing is coated and what is used has nothing to do with left over sand in the housing. As to the coating, while there are definite pros and cons, I'm also not a big fan of powder-coating. I have over 35 years of involvement with the process commercially and at a hobby level and prefer automotive liquid paint in most applications. -EM

 

[CudaChick1968]

I made caps for the axle flanges and for the 3rd member and used permatex gasket sealer. I don't expect that I've kept 100% of the sand out but likely 99%. But how the housing is coated and what is used has nothing to do with left over sand in the housing. As to the coating, while there are definite pros and cons, I'm also not a big fan of powder-coating. I have over 35 years of involvement with the process commercially and at a hobby level and prefer automotive liquid paint in most applications. -EM

I understand that for sure. The point I was trying to make was more along the lines of what you're going through on physical prep work. A good job shop will do all of that anyway as part of the normal process.

There are worlds of differences between "commercial" powder coating (like on a welding cart that comes off in sheets a few weeks after you assemble it) and a pro shop. There was a good discussion on The Garage Journal awhile back. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398413&highlight=mziggy

 

[earlymopar]

I understand that for sure. The point I was trying to make was more along the lines of what you're going through on physical prep work. A good job shop will do all of that anyway as part of the normal process.

There are worlds of differences between "commercial" powder coating (like on a welding cart that comes off in sheets a few weeks after you assemble it) and a pro shop. There was a good discussion on The Garage Journal awhile back. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398413&highlight=mziggy

"Commercial" to me is in regular job shop suppliers and all of my work was with a large variety of consumer products that have and had high level cosmetic requirements. Nothing at all like "Welding carts" or industrial parts.