Big block adjustable rocker arms

[1 Wild R/T]

, you also said some machining may be needed on the tips where they contact the valve stem ?

Actually you machine the side of the rocker where it butts up against the rocker hold down... Typically the rocker hits the pedestal/hold down before the tip of the rocker aligns with the valve... The solution is to narrow the rocker where it rides on the shaft... Only cut the side that rides on the pedestal/hold down... Some guys simply grind the side down... But that risks the surface not being parallel which causes the rocker and/pedestal/hold down to wear at the contact point... A simple jig lets you cut them on a lathe assuring they are square/parallel... I actually intentionally cut them about .050 thin so I can shim them allowing me to put the alignment spot on, and the shim reduces wear to the other parts..

 

[autoxcuda]

Be aware, new shaft hold downs may effect the rocker/valve alignment... As I mentioned earlier, this can be an issue with Isky rockers, easily remedied, but an issue all the same..

Are the Cranes considered better?

I thought it was cool that the iskys had a hardened pad in them.

 

[gkent]

Smokin' deal. Those will clean up nice in a blast cabinet. Get 'em off the shafts and see what the bores are like - hopefully not galled to ****. Take a good look at the pads that contact the valve tips - there should be virtually zero wear. If any are bad, rocker arms unlimited can replace 'em. Post more pics of them off the shafts !!

 

[jays69bird]

Actually you machine the side of the rocker where it butts up against the rocker hold down... Typically the rocker hits the pedestal/hold down before the tip of the rocker aligns with the valve... The solution is to narrow the rocker where it rides on the shaft... Only cut the side that rides on the pedestal/hold down... Some guys simply grind the side down... But that risks the surface not being parallel which causes the rocker and/pedestal/hold down to wear at the contact point... A simple jig lets you cut them on a lathe assuring they are square/parallel... I actually intentionally cut them about .050 thin so I can shim them allowing me to put the alignment spot on, and the shim reduces wear to the other parts..

Thanks for the clarification. I have a small metal lathe, shouldn't be to hard to set up. I see shims on 440 source, and probably others have them. Sometimes you can even source shims on McMaster Carr. I also see spacers for sale, would it be better to go spacer/shim instead of the springs ?

 

[gkent]

Check the contact with the wear pad to the valve tip, a lot of them need to be machined to improve alignment....

Yeah well ... this is not something the average user should be concerned about OR trying to do !!

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Are the Cranes considered better?

I thought it was cool that the iskys had a hardened pad in them.

The Iskys are the premium ductile rockers... But they have always had that issue... Easy fix but, it needs to be corrected... Cranes usually don't have any issue, they are narrow & need to be shimmed..

 

[jays69bird]

Yeah well ... this is not something the average user should be concerned about OR trying to do !!

I do have a small metal lathe, or if I have to I can bring them to work and have our machinist surface grind the side or use a lathe. Main thing is keep everything true.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yeah well ... this is not something the average user should be concerned about OR trying to do !!

Bullsh't, the alignment often is off by a bunch and needs to be corrected.. It's easy and especially with the early rockers with the narrow pads it needs to be fixed..

 

[autoxcuda]

The Iskys are the premium ductile rockers... But they have always had that issue... Easy fix but, it needs to be corrected... Cranes usually don't have any issue, they are narrow & need to be shimmed..

I have Comp steel rollers on my small block.

We shaved the ends and the MP rocker stands and rocker end to get tip alignment correct.

I think the MP stands were a little thick.

We started from the center and alternated moved outward

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I do have a small metal lathe, or if I have to I can bring them to work and have our machinist surface grind the side or use a lathe. Main thing is keep everything true.

So, since you have a lathe, the easiest thing it to throw the shaft into the lathe with most of it inside the bore.. You want maybe an inch exposed.. Side a rocker on the shaft & find a way to drive the rocker... Before I made a jig, I use to replace one jaw bolt with a longer bolt that would act as a drive dog... Easy fast & effective..

 

[jays69bird]

Bullsh't, the alignment often is off by a bunch and needs to be corrected.. It's easy and especially with the early rockers with the narrow pads it needs to be fixed..

Yes I want these to be right.

 

[jays69bird]

So, since you have a lathe, the easiest thing it to throw the shaft into the lathe with most of it inside the bore.. You want maybe an inch exposed.. Side a rocker on the shaft & find a way to drive the rocker... Before I made a jig, I use to replace one jaw bolt with a longer bolt that would act as a drive dog... Easy fast & effective..

I found this picture on the internet, I definitely see what you're talking about.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I found this picture on the internet, I definitely see what you're talking about.

View attachment 1979702

In that shot you can see the stock stamped hold downs, Some guys simply remove the tabs that are sticking straight up... That improves alignment but creates another issue, now the rocker wears at the contact point... Adding a shim helps, but hurts the alignment...

I use aftermarket hold downs that do a better job of supporting the shaft, reducing the likelihood of distorting the shaft & offering better support for the rocker/shim to wear against... But to do that you are cutting the rocker arm width...

FWIW I like the springs rather than spacers... If you're gonna use spacers make sure there is enough side clearance...