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Block Sand this Charger?

robw13

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greeneville, tn
Hi,

What would be the best approach for my charger? Block sand or palm sand most of the body? 20140417_094916.jpg20140417_094900.jpg
 
Media blast.
 
Your arms will fall off before you get that hand sanded. If you have the money media blast is the way to go. X2 on the DA or an angle grinder but don't stay in one spot too long or you will heat up the area and warp it. If the 80 grit isn't cutting fast enough go with 36 grit but you will have to follow up with 80 grit to get rid of some of the scratches in the metal. These are nice for hard to reach areas http://3mcollision.com/scotch-brite-roloc-clean-strip-xt-disc-07476-3-inch-extra-coarse.html .Give it a good washing before you start with some Dawn or degreaser. Chemical stripping is also an option but I prefer sanding. Good luck.
 
Cool, so start with 36/80 grit and work my way up? Any suggestions for all the rust underneath the car?

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Also, can I use a car cover even when its sanded, cause the car sits outside.
 
After the car is sanded, it needs to be primered right away to stop further oxidation (rusting) of the body panels. Ideally it needs to be in a dry garage. As for rust underneath, is it rust from the floor and trunk panels? Take a wire brush to the frame rails, then a screwdriver to check how solid they are.If rotten, they will need to be replaced/repaired. Frame repair parts are available from Auto Rust Technicians.
 
Do not worry about the outside till you find out how bad the rust issues are. If it is bad enough then you might have a parts cars instead of a project. If you can push a screwdriver through the frame, then you just have parts.
 
These work awesome. It doesn't get the panel very hot and only pulls off the paint, even on hard corners. Plus they have a 14000 max which is nice.
But they are $10 a pop from Lowes. It took me two to do the fender but I think with some finesse they will last longer. I wish I had a compressor that would do a DA but this was the option I had. Hopefully I can get an electric DA soon, I hear good things.
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I say.. dip it... dip it good...

We all dip


[video=youtube;Dgk60nHCvcM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dgk60nHCvcM[/video]
 
A da is a great way to destroy sheet metal. if you can paint strip or blast it. Da will kill that car. Once you sand it or strip you can't leave outside rust will advance fast once you grind thru galvanizing.
 
When you get serious on this car, take it all the way apart, cut off/out the bad metal, send what's left to a Media Blaster, get it in at least Etch Primer immediately, then, start building it up. You're wasting your time, money on hand sanding.
 
if the front floors are gone , I would bet the cowl/firewall is badly rusted out too , see all the crap stuck between the deck lid and the body ? all that debris cloggs the drain holes and these Charger bodys are terrible in certain locations ( especially under the cowl vents ) , ask me how I know ... I have one. Sitting outside under trees and such is the worst thing for these cars

clean it really good , blow it out with compressed air ( inside panels etc. ) , vaccum it out, clean it again , get it dry , keep it dry and inspect how bad the Rot actually is before you advance on the project.
 
these wheels work great I did my 65 satellite and 2 other cars It doesn't hurt the metal and it's better than chemical strip
 
A da is a great way to destroy sheet metal. if you can paint strip or blast it. Da will kill that car. Once you sand it or strip you can't leave outside rust will advance fast once you grind thru galvanizing.

you need to clarify a DA can be a very great tool and I use the hell out of them but in the wrong hands very true just like any other stripping tools a wire wheel on an angle grinder works wonders to!!
 
X2 on that ma. And those stripping wheels work good too. Get those floors looked at first and that stuff done, then work on the outside.
 
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