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Booster to MC adjustment weird issue

Don Trombley

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1967 Charger with drums all around and power brakes. My issue with adjustment of the booster push rod to get proper clearance to the MC is the pushrod is slightly too long even without the adjustment screw installed. The adjustment screw would add at least 3/8” when screwed all the way in. The whole booster and MC went to RocAuto for rebuild but now I can’t get the brakes to bleed properly. Attached are photos showing the rod length with my adjustment tool set to the MC piston depth. Anyone else encounter such a problem?.
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I used to work on the Bendix assembly line building these things way back when. I was the line repairman that got to troubleshoot and repair any units that were rejected on the automatic test stands.

That said, yours may be very similar to what I often found back in the day. During assembly (the line workers were paid by how many were built, so they emphasized "speed" versus "accuracy", hence why I was so busy!) the line workers would often accidentally insert TWO reaction discs where there was only supposed to be ONE. This made it impossible to adjust the push rod properly. It was always to long. Sounds like what you have and the fact that you said you sent it in to be rebuilt recently also tells me this could be your problem.

The solution? You have to take the push rod out of the booster to check for an extra reaction disc inside. To do this you have to remove the rubber seal around the push rod from the booster. It probably has a metal external tooth like spring washer that is pushed down over the rubber seal to keep the seal in place. So, basically you have to just grab the push rod and pull up/out while maybe also encouraging the spring washer to release with a pry tool of some sort. (Screwdriver?) Back then, I had special tools on the line that I could just pop that push rod assembly right out without much of a hassle, but you can get it out with common tools just be careful not to damage the rubber seal since you have to reuse it of course. (of course, I had lots of extra parts too when I worked on the line so I didn't have to worry about the rubber seal so much.)

After you have the push rod out, the reaction disc may or may not come out stuck to the bottom of the push rod. If it sticks to the bottom, use a flashlight and check inside carefully for a second reaction disc still in the unit. Otherwise, look for TWO discs inside. They will fit inside a round hole in the center of the diaphragm plate inside, but it is possible that it will pop out when you take the push rod out, so be sure a second disc isn't floating around inside the booster that you don't see before you reassemble it. BTW, these reaction discs are solid rubber approximately 3/4" in diameter and maybe 3/8" thick. So, hopefully this will help you but I know its only a "shot in the dark". Good luck!
 
Here's a photo that shows some of the internals of the booster. I've labeled and drawn arrows to the components that I referenced in the previous text.

Brake booster diagram.jpg
 
Wow great information. If I am understanding this correctly it sounds like the push rod will come out through the front or do I need to open up the two halves of the booster to get at the rod? BTW my booster is Midland Ross.
 
I tried to further reply last night but my internet went out just as I was ready to hit "post reply".

Anyway the point was, it looks like you have a Midland-Ross type booster not the Bendix type I posted about. However, they are very similar to each other and your '67 factory service manual will have many photos and text describing how to service the Midland-Ross. What I posted was for a '69 Bendix type booster.
 
Wow great information. If I am understanding this correctly it sounds like the push rod will come out through the front or do I need to open up the two halves of the booster to get at the rod? BTW my booster is Midland Ross.

Yes, it comes out through the front. No need to split the booster can in half, that would greatly complicate the issue in reassembly.

Remember to check your '67 manual for the Midland-Ross specifics, I only worked on Bendix type and they are somewhat different.
 
You should be sending that back to whomever rebuilt it to get it right
 
View attachment 1194445 The push rod pulls almost all the way out without resistance. Is that normal?

Yes, that would be entirely possible that it would slide out easily until the bottom end of the push rod comes into contact with the rubber seal on the inside. Somehow that rubber seal should come out of the metal can and the push rod will come with it.

Disclaimer once again: Midland Ross is somewhat different than the Bendix booster. Consult your '67 FSM
 
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Thanks again for the expert advice. My manual shows the Bendix cross section like the image you sent, but does not have a similar drawing for the Midland Ross part. From the step by step does not appear that the front bellows can be removed and replaced without splitting the unit open. Maybe the reaction cone could be wriggled through the bellows if I push it in.... not sure. Opinions?
 
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