David Baird
Member
I'll try to get it for you
Brake pedal problem
- Thread starter David Baird
- Start date
David Baird
Member
Its in the picture I sent earlier i just drilled a new hole in the original bracket because the booster rod was lower than yhe rod from the master cylinder
David Baird
Member
Take the master just about off the studs. See if the wheels turn free then.
David Baird
Member
Ok I'll try it tomorrow I'll let you know what happens thanks for your help its much appreciated
There is a difference with the pedal ‘ratio’ from manual to power brakes. In my case there are two holes in the pedal arm; top is for manual and bottom for power. Encountered extra hassles as my ’63 had a bell-crank setup for power brakes and the kit I bought was for a later ed mopar. After all sorts of futzing including machining a new eye bolt (kit bolt was crap looked like a kid in HS shop class made it) and installing a new threaded rod/coupler ended up with the system working with the manual ratio. This included hassles with inadequate plunging into the MC after adjusting the MC/booster tolerance (more futzing). Anyway, not sure what ’66 connection looked like; but pedal ratio is a deal converting from manual to power. Make sure the pedal home position is not impeded by the brake light switch, should have just a little free zone there.
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
[1] Jack up one front wheel
[2] push brake pedal, release, wait 30 secs
[3] See if you can turn the wheel
[4] If yes, front brakes are not staying on
[5] If brake is staying on, back off m/cl to give 1/4" gap between m/c & booster. If wheel moves now, problem is booster p'rod into m/c cyl is too long, causing the m/c to stay 'on'. Prod is adjustable on some models. If wheel is still locked, most likely the residual line pressure valve is still in the front brakes cct. Not sure on your model, but RLPV is often found behind the brass ferrule where the front brake line installs into m/c; use a sheet metal screw to extract ferrule, & then rubber cup & spring [ RSLP ] can be removed.
[2] push brake pedal, release, wait 30 secs
[3] See if you can turn the wheel
[4] If yes, front brakes are not staying on
[5] If brake is staying on, back off m/cl to give 1/4" gap between m/c & booster. If wheel moves now, problem is booster p'rod into m/c cyl is too long, causing the m/c to stay 'on'. Prod is adjustable on some models. If wheel is still locked, most likely the residual line pressure valve is still in the front brakes cct. Not sure on your model, but RLPV is often found behind the brass ferrule where the front brake line installs into m/c; use a sheet metal screw to extract ferrule, & then rubber cup & spring [ RSLP ] can be removed.
Maybe someone has already addressed this above, but are you sure the links are not installed upside down on the linkage?
David Baird
Member
Thanks for all the help I ordered a new master cylinder and booster from Pirate Jacks it works great now the linkage was too long
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