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Brake Questions, '72 B-body

Phantom440

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Hello all, I hope you're doing well and keeping warm in your garages! :)
I've *almost* finished replacing the 8.25 rear with an 8.75. Got new HD springs, pieces from Firm Feel, etc. I'm feeling really good about my progress.
However, I have a couple of questions:

The rubber brake line from body to axle was cut to get the 8.75 out of the car I was pulling from. I've seen multiple "rear brake hoses" for our cars, but I can't tell if they're the one I need from the body to the distribution block on the axle housing, or simply the ones that go to the drums. Is there a particular name for that specific body-to-axle hose? Also, I will probably need a new distribution block on the 8.75, new clips to keep the hose in place, etc. Can someone please suggest a good source for brake lines? I'd like to go full stainless for brake and fuel lines, if possible. I want to keep this thing reliable and safe for the rest of my life. :)

I've also seen woven stainless steel brake lines - anyone here use them? Are they worth it? My VW experience has told me "woven stainless fuel lines" just have the woven covering for a plain rubber hose, and the ethanol in the gas eats the rubber alive, clogging fuel filters, carbs, etc.

Finally, last question: The goal of this car is to be kind of a brute. Turning the wheel takes some force, a hard-shifting, hard clutch, hard seats kinda deal. I want to feel like I've gotten a workout after driving it! I don't know if you guys have read the '77 Car and Driver where they talk about the police Monaco. They say it's, more or less, a "real man's car," where you're using your muscles to make this stubborn sumbitch work with you. That appeals to me. :) The car originally came with non-power drums. When the rear is all buttoned up, I would like to upgrade to non-power discs, and bought a Master Cylinder off of ebay advertised for manual discs. The M/C itself is much taller than the original drum M/C (for the extra fluid, I'd assume...) but the bore is 1 and 1/8th inch, and everywhere I can find, people say that's far too big for a manual application. Its part number is for a '71 Coronet taxi with manual discs, so I wanted your opinions- do I need a smaller diameter bore? I'm trying to use as many period-specific parts as possible, so if the larger diameter bore in the M/C means I'm gonna have to really put my weight into hauling this sucker down from speed, that's great- I don't want some mushy pedal nonsense. :)

Sorry for the novel of a post, but you guys are the best and I wanted to make sure I was as clear as possible. The car is a '72 Coronet sedan. Now that the 8.75 is in, next plans are front discs, then 318 out and 440/4-speed in. :)

Thank you in advance for any advice!
(also, I really did try to search the forums for "brake hoses" and "body-to-axle brake line" and couldn't find info for later B's- I'm not much of a brake guy so I don't know if what works on a '68 Satellite still applies to a '72...)
And Merry Christmas all! I hope you have a great holiday!
 
1. The brake hose at the rear end is called "the rear flexible brake line" which you can get at an y parts store. You only need that one hose.
2. Stainless brake lines are cool...but man-o-man they are darn near impossible to cut & re-flare if you do anything "non-factory" with your brakes....like 4 wheel disc.
3. There are TWO possible sets of rear brake lines. There were two different locations of that rear-end brake distribution block...maybe 2" different...so the length of the brake lines are slightly different. fyi- depending on your distribution block location, I may have a set of stainless rear brake lines for you.
4. If you want a workout while driving (or parking anyway), go to manual steering.
 
Agree with Purplebeeper. Distribution block should be on the driver's side, if facing the rear, just off of center(?)
 
Agree with Purplebeeper. Distribution block should be on the driver's side, if facing the rear, just off of center(?)
Yep, and unlike the various non-American-made knockoff brass brake pieces (which I've had BIG trouble with), that rear brake piece is really just a fancy "T" & you should have no problem if you buy one. Inline Tube & others sell them, but you might as well check for vendors on this site since I'm 99% sure they're all coming from the same manufacturer.
 
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Bought NOS rear diff rubber/brass block hose off of Richard Ehrinberg for 40$. Stainless lines leak with DOT 5, best brakes set up are slider adapters off a 79 R body, you need at least 15" wheels with 11.75 rotors, seen here with 15x7" Diplomat wheels and 74 Duster spindles. Big bore master means less pedal travel.
 
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