Brake Warning Light

[Eggo]

I changed the calipers, discs and pads on the front of my 73 satellite yesterday and bled the brakes and it seemed fine today. Drove it for about an hour and a half in total and then the brake warning light on the dash came on. I’ve since bled the brakes again at the front and tried bleeding them at the back (could only do the passenger side as couldn’t undo the nipple on the drivers side). The warning light is still on though and i’m not sure why or what to do to sort it out. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Well if no signs of leaks I would look for an open wire down to the switch that might be bare and grounding out. Pedal good then try pumping it and see if light goes off. Pin in switch might need recentering. Jusy my thoughts

 

[YY1]

Do the brakes feel OK and work correctly?

Check your parking brake pedal position/release and/or that switch.

Mine is real finicky.

 

[Eggo]

Well if no signs of leaks I would look for an open wire down to the switch that might be bare and grounding out. Pedal good then try pumping it and see if light goes off. Pin in switch might need recentering. Jusy my thoughts

there doesn’t seem to be leaks or an open wire. how do i recenter the switch? have tried pressing the brakes really hard quite a few times and it hasn’t made the light go out

 

[Eggo]

Do the brakes feel OK and work correctly?

Check your parking brake pedal position/release and/or that switch.

Mine is real finicky.

yeah they feel better than they ever have, didn’t notice a change in the feel of them between the light being off and it coming on.
which bit is the switch?

 

[64fury74charger]

there doesn’t seem to be leaks or an open wire. how do i recenter the switch? have tried pressing the brakes really hard quite a few times and it hasn’t made the light go out

The proportioning valve has a spring loaded clip and needs to be pulled out to re -center the plunger for the light.

 

[Eggo]

The proportioning valve has a spring loaded clip and needs to be pulled out to re -center the plunger for the light.

ah okay thank you, which bit is the clip, is it the bit sticking out on the end at the right?

 

[64fury74charger]

ah okay thank you, which bit is the clip, is it the bit sticking out on the end at the right?

View attachment 1313662

The small pin on the fron facing the front.

 

[Eggo]

The small pin on the fron facing the front.

thank you! it came out a bit but the light is still on, do i need to re-bleed the brakes?

 

[64fury74charger]

thank you! it came out a bit but the light is still on, do i need to re-bleed the brakes?

If memo serves me the pin should be held out while bleeding and the allows the pin to re-center so it is neutral. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Ron H]

Not sure on your car, but check the e-brake cable and pedal; could have been disturbed with your work. You should use penetrating oil on the frozen nipple for a few hours or longer since the car is braking good. Try shocking the nipple after letting the oil do what it can. An incomplete bleed will likely leave air trapped.

 

[R413]

Another situation for the factory service manual And the bleeding procedure on the specific year of Car.

yes check the parking brake pedal and switch

yes get that stuck bleeder moving.

 

[YY1]

Pull out the parking brake release(inside the car) and while holding it, pull up on the parking brake pedal.

Also, feel around for where the mechanism operates the switch.

My brake light came on a couple months ago and that fixed it.


BTW- I've had that prop valve plunger go off center too.

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

I changed the calipers, discs and pads on the front of my 73 satellite yesterday and bled the brakes and it seemed fine today. Drove it for about an hour and a half in total and then the brake warning light on the dash came on. I’ve since bled the brakes again at the front and tried bleeding them at the back (could only do the passenger side as couldn’t undo the nipple on the drivers side). The warning light is still on though and i’m not sure why or what to do to sort it out. Does anyone have any ideas?

If the problem is the internal valve moving over the easiest way to re-center is to open a bleeder on a front and a rear brake at same time and then pump the brakes as if bleeding and that will make for equal pressure on both sides of the valve, and it should recenter. Unequal pressure on the valve is what causes it to move over(low on one side high pressure on the other) Can happen when bleeding brakes

 

[Eggo]

Not sure on your car, but check the e-brake cable and pedal; could have been disturbed with your work. You should use penetrating oil on the frozen nipple for a few hours or longer since the car is braking good. Try shocking the nipple after letting the oil do what it can. An incomplete bleed will likely leave air trapped.

thank you, I tried this and then managed to get the nipple open and after bleeding the backs properly the light went away!

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Mega cool!!! Sorry long days and long hours at work prevented me from checking your progress. Thanks to our great mopar community here on all the great tech advice