Build a seized 360 or buy and build a 440

[66Satellite47]

The 440 is just plain easier to get a given level of power & torque than a small block with higher level of reliability. I think the conversion parts to go from small block to big block is pretty simple for this car.

 

[Mr Belvedere]

Don’t have Mopar circle. I have a Chevy circle. Lol I’m alone. Lol.

Hah! Whether you start with the 360 or big block 400 or 440 go with a stroker!

 

[rumblefish360]

I think the conversion parts to go from small block to big block is pretty simple for this car.

True, but it adds to the expense. Dealers choice...

 

[Aeronet]

If it's an original 318 car and you install a 440 in it you will need stiffer springs, front and rear anti-sway bars, a different transmission, radiator, brakes, rear end, drive shaft, exhaust (anything else?).
A 360 might be easier, but if you stroke it or really hop it up you might have to upgrade a lot of components anyway.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

As Brewster campaigned for..... None of the above...

Find & build a 89-92 roller 360 into a 408....

 

[66Satellite47]

If it's an original 318 car and you install a 440 in it you will need stiffer springs, front and rear anti-sway bars, a different transmission, radiator, brakes, rear end, drive shaft, exhaust (anything else?).
A 360 might be easier, but if you stroke it or really hop it up you might have to upgrade a lot of components anyway.

It seems to me most of these mods are required for a high power small block too. That's why factory upgraded these components to handle modest increased power for 318 to 340/360, far less than the OP is looking for. But sure needs to be considered for any swap like he is considering.

 

[rumblefish360]

It seems to me most of these mods are required for a high power small block too. That's why factory upgraded these components to handle modest increased power for 318 to 340/360, far less than the OP is looking for. But sure needs to be considered for any swap like he is considering.

So you assume. And understandably why.
A lot depends on what he is starting with. How far he wants to take it and what he is willing to put up with. Like I said, “Dealers Choice.”

Now he stated he has a 360 block to upgrade. The 4.0 arm or the one I linked earlier

(http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...ciBLaXRz&level2=MzYwIHRvIDQyNg==&partid=23812 )

To make displacements like :
4.030" = 426 c.i.
4.040" = 429 c.i.
4.060" = 433 c.i.
4.080" = 437 c.i.
4.100" = 441 c.i

Is IMO the best route for a powerful small block.
His trans should be given a simple shift in and additional cooler IF the trans is in good shape. It should need nothing else.

The rear end IMO should be at least an 8-3/4 no matter what the engine is at this power level. If it were to be used at the track semi often, it would be a DANA suggested. An upgrade for most any car worthy of the expense.

Cooling may still be able to be handled by the factory stock radiator and cooling set up. Radiator size, capacity and condition come into play here.

 

[ckessel]

If it's an original 318 car and you install a 440 in it you will need stiffer springs, front and rear anti-sway bars, a different transmission, radiator, brakes, rear end, drive shaft, exhaust (anything else?).
A 360 might be easier, but if you stroke it or really hop it up you might have to upgrade a lot of components anyway.

Accessory drives, move some wiring, rad hoses.

 

[66Satellite47]

Rumblefish Ok, good opinion, point is if you are going for 500 HP many parts from a 318 base need upgrading. I'm a big block guy, have had several small block buddies that enjoy their choice. I built a very nice 360 for my tow vehicle, no added drive train or cooling mods needed. You can surely build a powerful small block, go ahead.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Another possibility for the small block combo...we turbocharged our 318 in our 72 satellite. We were in the 450-500hp range probably even more torque as the power came in off the line at 2000 rpm. It had more torque then a hard running bb and cruised like a stock 318...but had a whistleWe had a really nice low mileage 904 that had a shift kit, but we were probably maxed out. We already had a 8 3/4 in the car and it had working air conditioning and stock accessories. We ran it for two years did not control the boost every good pass we made... we would blow a head gasket. This has been almost 25 years ago. Turbo builds are mainstream now...it was not back then.
The car has a BB in it now. But we did not have access to cometic heads gaskets and boost control and no one sold a blow through carb back then...if that stuff was available it would probably have a boosted sb in it yet...but I do like the BB we replaced it with...building a 542 for it now.

 

[rumblefish360]

*****

 

[Hemmit]

Thanks again everyone. I should have mentioned I’m restoring the 73 charger as well so any mods to the car could be done. That is why I’m trying to figure out which what to go. Leaning to the bb. But can’t find to much in the means of torsion bar upgrades.

 

[66Satellite47]

Mancini, PST, Firm Feel ?

 

[wyrmrider]

Bigger the better
no more narrow wheels and polyglass bias belted tires
wide wheels want to stay flat with the pavement

sway bar
rear bar from a cordoba works well

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Go with a stroker b big block buy as many aluminum parts as you can afford...water pump and housing, aluminum heads, intake, add headers and you wont be much heavier then a sb. If you are running ac... new rotary compressor is lighter. Keep the torsion bars, maybe tighten them a bit for desired ride height, some adjustment can be done.
...we are running rear torsion bar off a magnum same as cordoba with no front on our 72. Huge improvement in handling with just rear alone. Nice cheap upgrade. Some welding needed on the mounts.

 

[rumblefish360]

I like that post above!
An excellent route if one should decide to go to a B/RB.

 

[wyrmrider]

watch for oversteer with rear and no front
front should have large torsion bars if you go that route
my 69 Polara with 7b C body cop torsion bars 1.08 extra leaf in the rear and rear bar wide wheels tracked like a sports car
ditto with my 73 Fury Wagon with the Late B body Cop stuff and cordoba rear and extra leaf- late B cop stuff has huge bars
Early b-E you have to go to outside vendor bars

 

[33 IMP]

Go with a stroker b big block buy as many aluminum parts as you can afford...water pump and housing, aluminum heads, intake, add headers and you wont be much heavier then a sb. If you are running ac... new rotary compressor is lighter. Keep the torsion bars, maybe tighten them a bit for desired ride height, some adjustment can be done.
...we are running rear torsion bar off a magnum same as cordoba with no front on our 72. Huge improvement in handling with just rear alone. Nice cheap upgrade. Some welding needed on the mounts.

I would love to know if someone has done exactly that... taken an all iron big block, 440 or 383, and replaced all the iron with aluminum or lightweight parts wherever possible. I would love to know the total weight savings possible. (New aluminum carb to replace zinc holley, I've got a cast iron tach drive distributor, could be aluminum , aluminum heads,intake, water pump and housing, headers instead of manifolds, Dakota starter in place of the big old gear reduction, old moroso stamped aluminum valve covers). Could even see how much lighter a 26 aluminum radiator is, than a copper one.