Building exhaust yourself

[Mark1972]

Has anyone done it? Grabbed some exhaust tubing and elbows and fitted and welded up there own exhaust from headers back? For 2.25" dual exhaust from manifold back I'm looking at $1100+ taxes here. That's 3 different quotes. So now considering headers and fabbing my own. Just curious as to who else has done it.

 

[dla4567]

I’ve done it. Not to hard. Several different elbows and bends, chop saw, mig welder. Fitted piece by piece and tack welded as I went along. Once done, tig welded all joints.

My advantage was that my neighbor builds race cars and has drums full of stainless exhaust pipe. (He builds custom headers).

I only did it because nobody sells stainless dual exhaust for a Diplomat with a 354 Hemi.

 

[aeon280]

Has anyone done it? Grabbed some exhaust tubing and elbows and fitted and welded up there own exhaust from headers back? For 2.25" dual exhaust from manifold back I'm looking at $1100+ taxes here. That's 3 different quotes. So now considering headers and fabbing my own. Just curious as to who else has done it.

Wow thats a lot of money for exhaust. You may be better off ordering a kit like this and having it installed or install it yourself. unless your car has major suspension modifications these types of kits should bolt in. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/305...EAnLrAUrh9q8M-9nn-p5X2S3OAROvH-hoCY_sQAvD_BwE

 

[Car Nut]

I did on my 70 Challenger back in the eighties, went from single to dual exhaust. It was fairly easy.

 

[33 IMP]

For just a 2.25 or 2.5 system i would definately follow aeon280s suggestion
I've done two systems of my own primarily because i wanted to use 3.5" pipe. Since both cars used race headers without flanges, i made multiple flange sets of my own ,used GIANT truck flowmasters on one car, used mandrel bent elbows, fabbed a full 3.5 system to the bumper with removable tailpipes. ( fuel cell in the trunk, lots of room).
The other car was strip only, just used slightly angled tubes and 3.5 in-out hooker aero-flows, lighter, smaller and cheaper, with leftover turndowns in front of axle.
About $650 in parts for full system, around $200 for short system.
I would look at Jones exhaust for stainless mufflers to go with the jegs systemseems like an excellent quality/price ratio.

 

[Cranky]

I've done several but like to use band clamps so I can modify things when using straight pipes. Band clamps hold pretty well and do not crimp the pipe like standard muffler clamps do (and traps the pipe together) and the band clamps allow you to install different mufflers if you want.

 

[493 Mike]

I have done 3 systems (3") and have a 2" system waiting. Buy mandrel bends and cut all your fittings from 180* bends. I use all 90s, 45s, and a couple odd balls to come off the headers (30+years as a Steamfitter). I buy 16 gauge straight pipe (10') from a local muffler shop and U bends from http://mandrelbendingsolutions.com/. As the others did, I used my chop saw ( mine has a carbide blade-very little heat or burr ) and had to get creative with material hold down while cutting. I am using Chrysler mini van hangers (love them) WALKER 35460 (Rock Auto-$3.63) that require 1/2" rod shaped for fit and conditions. Weld the systems except mufflers at outlet end so you only need 2/4

clamps ( I prefer the band clamps also ).
I am using Classic Chambered Exhaust mufflers on the Belvedere but, I don't know what they sound like yet ( seller says unlike anything else you've heard). Also popped for resonators (sellers' recommendation).

Mike

 

[Mark1972]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-680140

That was the one I was looking at. I'll read a little more on the Jeg's option. Same price basically. Same mufflers. Never ordered from Jeg's before.

 

[Mark1972]

Thanks again for the help. I've got some decisions to make.

 

[Cranky]

On the subject of chambered mufflers....a buddy showed me a system on a Corvette some years back that had a shop made straight system on it and it had larger pipe that had several crimps in that section of the system acting as mufflers. The crimps were deep enough to take the ID down pretty close to what the upstream ID's were of system. The crimps won't slow down the flow much if any (think boundary layer air flow) but it does reduce the sound. I did 7 crimps on a 3' section on the single exhaust straight pipe that's on my V6 Dakota and it made a difference in sound. It didn't quiet it down much but it did some but my crimps are not very deep. Plan was to machine a set of dies for the press to make deeper crimps but never got around to it. Every bend and crimp in an system will change the sound. An X pipe will too and so will an H. As for the reducing the flow in a pipe.....check out that You Tube vid where they dyno test an engine with a set of beat up headers vs new ones.

 

[aeon280]

I just posted the first kit that came up in a Google search but the summit kit would work as well. You might also check Pypes brand. They are very competitive in pricing and also offer stainless kits. You didn't specify what engine your running but being you are looking at 2.25 exhaust I will assume you are running a realitively low hp set up. If that's the case go with an h pipe instead of an x pipe. H pipe is better for low hp engines and helps maintain bottom end torque. X pipes are better for hp gains but can sacrifice low end torque.

 

[khryslerkid]

www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/taking-up-new-residence.114133/page-6

 

[Mark1972]

I didn't realize the headers I was looking at would require me to remove my power steering pump. Which I don't want to do. Now I'm looking at other options. I've done a bunch of digging over the last few hours but could use a few suggestions. It's a stock 1970 Plymouth Satellite with a 1969 318 engine and the factory power steering. It's an A904 car on the column.

 

[493 Mike]

On the subject of chambered mufflers....a buddy showed me a system on a Corvette some years back that had a shop made straight system on it and it had larger pipe that had several crimps in that section of the system acting as mufflers. The crimps were deep enough to take the ID down pretty close to what the upstream ID's were of system. The crimps won't slow down the flow much if any (think boundary layer air flow) but it does reduce the sound. I did 7 crimps on a 3' section on the single exhaust straight pipe that's on my V6 Dakota and it made a difference in sound. It didn't quiet it down much but it did some but my crimps are not very deep. Plan was to machine a set of dies for the press to make deeper crimps but never got around to it. Every bend and crimp in an system will change the sound. An X pipe will too and so will an H. As for the reducing the flow in a pipe.....check out that You Tube vid where they dyno test an engine with a set of beat up headers vs new ones.

Real chambered pipe that Chevy offered were full size ID with a crimped jacket as are Classic Chambered Exhaust pieces.
Mike

 

[khryslerkid]

I didn't realize the headers I was looking at would require me to remove my power steering pump. Which I don't want to do. Now I'm looking at other options. I've done a bunch of digging over the last few hours but could use a few suggestions. It's a stock 1970 Plymouth Satellite with a 1969 318 engine and the factory power steering. It's an A904 car on the column.

If you're concerned about removing your ps pump to install headers (btw I never heard of this) you better leave the exhaust to a professional shop.

 

[Cranky]

Real chambered pipe that Chevy offered were full size ID with a crimped jacket as are Classic Chambered Exhaust pieces.
Mike

Yup, but I like to do my own thang

 

[747mopar]

I always make my own, I'd suggest starting with Pypes universal X pipe and build out from there. Like others are saying buy mandrel bent bends and weld it up, I buy U bends because I'm cheap and can get more bends from 1 piece. I second the band clamps, much better than the standard U bolts that smash your pipe. As for mufflers I love Flowmasters for their sound but holy cow can they get annoying with the drone. There has to be a trick to them because I've had ones that drove you mad and on another car with the same muffler it was fine. I'm using straight through oval glass packs right now with zero drone and still have a nice throaty sound. My headers are Hooker Super Comps, with my 400 BB and power steering they fit wonderfully although when it still had the 727 the exhaust needed slightly tweaked to get it from touching the transmission pan.... likely would fit fine with an RB.

I'd suggest buying good header gaskets the first time around too, don't waste your time on paper buy copper or aluminum gaskets like Percy's. I blew several in the first year but since putting Percy's on not a leak and that's including having the headers on and off a few times. I'd also suggest trimming your exhaust studs back to where you have just enough to bolt the headers on, extra length is just another obstacle to wrestle the headers around.

I'd recomend trying some of the Summit brand stuff if you want to save $$$. My experience with their self branded parts is they farm them out to reputable manufacturers and as far as I've seen they're good quality. Good luck

 

[451Mopar]

It depends on your skill level and the tools you have.
It is pretty difficult to fab an exhaust without a lift. Just not much room working with the car on jack stands.
Not sure if there is much cost savings in it either.
The pre-bent exhaust systems are usually easier to install, but if mixing different brand headers, and exhaust, you may need to make the pipes that connect the headers to the exhaust system.
I often use the 1" ratchet straps to push, pull and tweek the pre-bent pipes for better fitment.

 

[threewood]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-680140

That was the one I was looking at. I'll read a little more on the Jeg's option. Same price basically. Same mufflers. Never ordered from Jeg's before.

I ordered the same type kit from Jegs for my 62 and 69 b body. Both needed modified a bit to fit but all the parts and bends were there. I used Ultra flow mufflers for both kits. Plus I added a ball flange fitting in front of the mufflers to make it easier to come apart when needed.

 

[Cranky]

It depends on your skill level and the tools you have.
It is pretty difficult to fab an exhaust without a lift. Just not much room working with the car on jack stands.
Not sure if there is much cost savings in it either.
The pre-bent exhaust systems are usually easier to install, but if mixing different brand headers, and exhaust, you may need to make the pipes that connect the headers to the exhaust system.
I often use the 1" ratchet straps to push, pull and tweek the pre-bent pipes for better fitment.

Never had a lift....never had a shop with enough ceiling space for one so jack stands it is for me. Gotta use the good jack stands though.