Burned 71 Charger R/T on Copart

[Nacho-RT74]

If you over inflate the tire up to 150 psi and tire blows while riding around who is guilty? The tire or you?

Or if a fire comes from this:

AC wall outlet fault’s?


;)

 

[Nacho-RT74]

as it has been stated several times, the ammeter/charging system failure it comes INITIALLY from low output capacity from alts specially at idle from factory, adding to this:

-add accessories without consider the charging capacity (sources and paths)
-add accessories on the incorrect side of the charging network
-“upgrade” the batt with bigger capacity units keeping stock alt.

So, is really the ammeter by itself the guilty?

The ammeter missunderstanding is not gauge fault, but owners and mechs.

Sure handling an ammeter is not for everyone as the years have proved.

however, that’s another board section discussion LOL.

Could it caught in fire by a short on charging network? There is a chance it could… but why? Mmmmmm…

is the car restorable? Definitely yes. How much Will cost? a lot. Does it worth the effort? Maybe, depending on initial price and options if something special I guess. It is a V code to start sooooo…

 

[chargervert]

The car is a U code,not a V code. Maybe we need a foundation to stop ammeter gauge abuse and neglect! lol

 

[YY1]

Back in 1987, my 67 Coronet had a battery discharge issue I couldn't find for the life of me.

It was the first time I ever paid someone else to work on my car- an auto electrical specialist.

Turned out the actual ammeter gauge was causing the drain (even though it was working).
The shop simply cut the leads and crimped/soldered them together.

I've since fixed two others with the same issue by simply moving one lead to the other side of the gauge.

 

[Runcharger]

Any 71 R/T, Super Bee, R.R. or GTX should be saved period.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Back in 1987, my 67 Coronet had a battery discharge issue I couldn't find for the life of me.

It was the first time I ever paid someone else to work on my car- an auto electrical specialist.

Turned out the actual ammeter gauge was causing the drain (even though it was working).
The shop simply cut the leads and crimped/soldered them together.

I've since fixed two others with the same issue by simply moving one lead to the other side of the gauge.

An ammeter the cause of a draw? There are no internal components in the ammeter that can complete any circuit causing a “drain” or draw current internally. Failed insulators allowing the studs to contact the cluster frame certainly would be considered a draw but would manifest much more serious symptoms than a simple parasitic drain. Still don’t get why some that fear the ammeter believe placing both ammeter leads on one stud will alleviate their concern. All that does is defeat the function of the ammeter while leaving both studs and the internal bus fully energized.

 

[chargervert]

Any 71 R/T, Super Bee, R.R. or GTX should be saved period.

I would like to hear that someone saves the car. It needs a new roof skin and roof structure,but the rest is just replacing panels that are typically replaced on most Mopar project cars due to rust and damage. It didn't burn to the ground,it is mostly upper body damage.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The car is a U code,not a V code. Maybe we need a foundation to stop ammeter gauge abuse and neglect! lol

LOL

i read it wrong and thought it was V code

 

[chargervert]

I got this orange piece of metal leaning against my garage wall that would fix that heat warped roof right up!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Well… if it was me, I would rebuilt that car per fender tag specs, not adding the sunroof. I would use the sunroof on a custom build non worthly VIN.

is it originally manual or powered sunroof?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

An ammeter the cause of a draw? There are no internal components in the ammeter that can complete any circuit causing a “drain” or draw current internally. Failed insulators allowing the studs to contact the cluster frame certainly would be considered a draw but would manifest much more serious symptoms than a simple parasitic drain. Still don’t get why some that fear the ammeter believe placing both ammeter leads on one stud will alleviate their concern. All that does is defeat the function of the ammeter while leaving both studs and the internal bus fully energized.

Actually I think it could be pausible a short between amm assembly and cluster housing small enough to get a draw without make a short? Thinking on a weird dimming dome light issue I’m having able to heat the fuse box cavity without blown the fuse… I think something related with some tail light socket since I loose brake lights on that instance.

But still being posible or not that stage, here is the main problem for years: hide the problem instead go with the right diagnosis and fix… so suppositions tipically floats on and more incorrect information keeps being spreaded around.

 

[chargervert]

Well… if it was me, I would rebuilt that car per fender tag specs, not adding the sunroof. I would use the sunroof on a custom build non worthly VIN.

is it originally manual or powered sunroof?

It's a manual sunroof from a 73,but if I was putting a new roof on that Charger,thats the one I would use! I have this 71 Charger roller with a good roof and lots of inner structure pieces I could use too,if I wanted to go the stock route.

 

[sam dupont]

there's a 69 Charger with a sunroof in a local yard. The body is rusted to the door handles, but the roof and sail panels are good. They want $500, but I'm not going to pay that much. I offered $300 and that's it.

 

[chargervert]

I just payed 2 grand for a mint sunroof assembly for a 69,$500 is a steal,go buy it and don't snooze! Get the VIN number off the car,there is a Charger sunroof registry,they would love to get the information on the car.