A drop of Loc-tite would help and a torque wrench.
Caliper bracket issue/help
- Thread starter 440beep
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Properly matched components might help more...A drop of Loc-tite would help and a torque wrench.
So you’re saying do what you said on the last page, buy 1973+ A body spindles, caliper bracket, rotors, splash shield and lower arm/ball joint. Hopefully the brake calipers I can use again. What makes the 1973+ A body parts special?
Or what if I just get a complete package like this from POL?
1962-74 MOPAR, Dodge, Plymouth Disc Brake Conversion, Stock Height Spindles
Or Mancini
MBM High Performance Brake Conversion Kit
Or what if I just get a complete package like this from POL?
1962-74 MOPAR, Dodge, Plymouth Disc Brake Conversion, Stock Height Spindles
Or Mancini
MBM High Performance Brake Conversion Kit
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What I'm saying is it looks like you have the right calipers, the brackets have been butchered to allow the bracket to bolt to the early spindle... The current (66-69) rotors are thinner than the 73-76 A body rotors & the offset is wrong
Personally I'd rather use OE 73-76 A body spindles and rotors since I see a lot less threads about OE brakes not working than I do threads about aftermarket stuff...
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FWIW both those kits use slider style calipers, you have pin style calipers... Either design works though I've always preferred the pin style..
One thing to clarify, I ditched those butchered brackets and got correct brackets that fit, no butchering required.
Brackets that bolt up properly & mate late calipers to early spindles... Cool!! Not saying I'm 100% comfortable with using mismatched parts but that's a big step in making it safer... So the bolt fell out cause it wasn't torqued? I mean, loctite is good but theres a lot of brakes out there that never got any loctite & they don't typically shed bolts....
RussT Plymouths
Well-Known Member
Are you 100% sure you had the mounting bolts properly torqued? I would think the paint would show more damage around the hole if so. This could possibly get missed if a project stretches over several days or work sessions. I'm thinking specs are 80-100 foot pounds, but you should double check your service manual. Body weight on a short wrench is unpredictable, best to use a torque wrench.
Something else to consider. You found you needed to clearance the caliper adapter to be able to get the bolts in, are you sure you provided enough clearance for the adapters to be able to sit flush on the machined surfaces surrounding the mounting holes, (threaded holes)? For the torque to be accurate and the bolts to remain tight, the machined surfaces need to be tight together. Are the adapter bolts long enough? I would want at least 3/4" threads in the spindle, but sticking through a couple threads would be much better and is what I've seen on what I have.
Thanks for help. I will triple check the bolts and use a torque wrench.
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IMO.....for what it's worth....the slider type calipers work great....but stay away from from the aftermarket / rebuilt calipers using the phenolic pistons (sort of a black hard plastic like material)....which I believe were developed to eliminate the metallic pistons from gauling / sticking / leaking in their bore......which did not fix any issues but created many.....like sticking, leaking.....stay with the traditional metallic pistons.
BOB RENTON
Everything torqued to spec now, and everything looks properly mated flat together.
I still can’t believe I wouldn’t have tightened those fully, unless as speculated, there was a lot going on when assembling it and maybe I told myself “tighten everything when on the ground.” Just glad parts didn’t come apart two weeks ago during a 70 mile drive doing 60mph.
I still can’t believe I wouldn’t have tightened those fully, unless as speculated, there was a lot going on when assembling it and maybe I told myself “tighten everything when on the ground.” Just glad parts didn’t come apart two weeks ago during a 70 mile drive doing 60mph.
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