Can I ask for some A/C help advice/opinions please...

[RJS]

If you are running the factory style compressor and R-134 freon, there is a EPR valve in the compressor, it was used to control the flow of the freon, it is not compatible with R-134. You have to convert the system to be a cycling type, like all new cars since R-134 was introduced. You may know this information. I have done a couple underhood retrofits and the companies did not explain this at all. If you are using the factory stuff under the dash, you will have to install a switch on the low side under the hood. And remove the EPR valve. The 165 high and 15 low side pressures are both really low with R-134, should be more like 250 and 38 lbs.

Please read post no not factory except for evaporator I added an underhood kit.
Ron

 

[RJS]

Does your family call you T2R9 also????haha

Ron

Don't mind me Jeff I always bust chops!!!!
Ron

 

[1 Wild R/T]

In the original post RJS posted

"So today it's 82 degrees with like 70% humidity and I have (3) 12oz. cans into the system (36oz. total) with these #'s 15 low side and 165 high side"


My post consisted of

I'd say your a little low...

View attachment 1491536

And @72sunroof just gave me a Red X.....

Per the industry standard R134 Pressure/Temperature Chart which is posted in my above post with an ambient temp of 82 degrees the high side should be reading around 200-240ish... It's 165.... I stand by the suggestion the system is a little low... Popping in and throwing a red X aught to be followed by an explanation to support you opinion... Otherwise your just an asshole...

Or maybe your on a phone & fat fingered the red X.... Hmmmm....

 

[RJRENTON]

In the original post RJS posted

"So today it's 82 degrees with like 70% humidity and I have (3) 12oz. cans into the system (36oz. total) with these #'s 15 low side and 165 high side"


My post consisted of

And @72sunroof just gave me a Red X.....

Per the industry standard R134 Pressure/Temperature Chart which is posted in my above post with an ambient temp of 82 degrees the high side should be reading around 200-240ish... It's 165.... I stand by the suggestion the system is a little low... Popping in and throwing a red X aught to be followed by an explanation to support you opinion... Otherwise your just an asshole...

I agree with 1 wildR/T.....seems a little low on refrigerant.....add additional refrigerant while observing to see if discharge pressure comes up or increases......while watching low side pressure AND air temp off the evaporator, or outlet temp. If pressure DOES NOT come up, its possible the compressor has a bad exhsust valve OR excessive internal losses or blow by......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Darter6]

a red X aught to be followed by an explanation to support you opinion.

Totally agree.

 

[Some Car Guy]

Totally agree.

it absolutely should be required you give a reason for such. I got one from some pud that can’t figure his disc conversion out. He did the douche move in a thread on brakes started by another guy, kinda ironic to pull that move on a guy giving knowledge when you can’t get your own **** together.

 

[72sunroof]

In the original post RJS posted

"So today it's 82 degrees with like 70% humidity and I have (3) 12oz. cans into the system (36oz. total) with these #'s 15 low side and 165 high side"


My post consisted of

And @72sunroof just gave me a Red X.....

Per the industry standard R134 Pressure/Temperature Chart which is posted in my above post with an ambient temp of 82 degrees the high side should be reading around 200-240ish... It's 165.... I stand by the suggestion the system is a little low... Popping in and throwing a red X aught to be followed by an explanation to support you opinion... Otherwise your just an asshole...

Or maybe your on a phone & fat fingered the red X.... Hmmmm....

Fat fingered.
Here is the chart you need not that stupid one with the pressures to blow up your system.
Quick math for high side is 2 to 2.2 times Ambien temp, high humidity is 2.2.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Fat fingered.
Here is the chart you need not that stupid one with the pressures to blow up your system.
Quick math for high side is 2 to 2.2 times Ambien temp, high humidity is 2.2. View attachment 1522018

Thanks for getting back to this.... Interesting that the numbers on your chart are lower than the chart I've been using for years.. When I was certified for R12 & R134 there were standard charts, the numbers on the chart I posted match up with my old literature so I plan to continue using the numbers I've been using.... Haven't blown up an A/C system in the last thirty years.... Pretty sore I won't this week either...

 

[RJRENTON]

Fat fingered.
Here is the chart you need not that stupid one with the pressures to blow up your system.
Quick math for high side is 2 to 2.2 times Ambien temp, high humidity is 2.2. View attachment 1522018

I concur....your chart illustrates the relationship between TEMPERATURE (condenser air inlet temp) and PRESSURE (condenser refrigerant inlet pressure) ....or Boyles Law. The other factor I consider is the EVAPORATOR air outlet temperature and the velocity of the circulated AIR..or air temp at the dash vents and the average RPM (engine speed) the compressor is turning. Higher RPM's equates to higher pumped volume of refrigerant and the heat exchange ratios for a given refrigerant type (specific heat characteristics or condensing and
evaporating rates) ..more refrigerant equals greater heat exchange limited by the surface area of the respective heat exchangers. REMEMBER...you are not making cold, but removing heat....
he FSM's are fairly explicit as to charging conditions and rrecomdations but prior experiences and results are very important considerations.......just my opinions and thoughts.....
BOB RENTON