Car starts only with key in start mode

[miller]

I don't like the look of the back as the epoxy has partially separated on one end...

Not sure, Ron, though that kinda sounds like the box took some heat. Usually, that epoxy is pretty tough stuff. Maybe old age?

 

[Speedbird]

Well guys regurgitating my old post here as I'm still have the same f-ing problems again; but seemed to subside for awhile now back with a vengeance. Right at this moment I'm supposed to be in a cruise and later a show and be damned if tonight is actually nice around here for once. I've checked everything that is 'supposed' to be suspected culprits and all check fine! Ig switch good, ballast good, and put another on for good measure. Wiring all looks fine/connected. It's a new engine harness in the car for about 16 months now and had run fine. My guess right now is the ECU...I installed a 1st gen mopar electronic ignition some 15-18 years ago and this is the 2nd box. I had replaced it after doing all the checks and finally put in a new one and car started right up (it had been a no start issue then). So wondering if I should put in a 3rd box for the 30 bucks as all else seems to check fine. I don't like the look of the back as the epoxy has partially separated on one end...no clue if this is any issue as I've been grabbing straws at this point. Frustrating as the 99% culprits are ruled out. I'll add, since my car is a button shift, it seems to rock as if needing an adjustment; but hell I had that before and didn't cause this problem...any advice is appreciated.

New boxes are junk.
I've given up on them.
Check my pictures.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/spark-plugs-which-type.172921/

 

[Ron H]

Not sure, Ron, though that kinda sounds like the box took some heat. Usually, that epoxy is pretty tough stuff. Maybe old age?

It's maybe 10 years now on this box; car only get's driven maybe 4-500 miles a year and sits in a heated garage. It's been through a complete engine rebuild and new wiring harness now. Who knows, replacing is cheap even though I have doubts that's the problem...last time I kept hunting down an ignition problem (different symptom though last time) it ended up being the box.

 

[Speedbird]

Your problem MAY not be an ECU.
It MAY be a resistance issue.
It MAY be a wiring issue.

ECUs
I've been through them.
I had a new "orange" one that lasted about a week.
At the same time I was running a junk yard pull "orange" ECU for years till it started acting funny.
Car was missing at idle SOMETIMES but would run good off idle ALL the time.
Found out the OLD orange ECU was acting up.

I've got a stack of 5 pin ECUs
Wonder if I should sell them on Ebay.

 

[Ron H]

yeah I agree, I'm not at all convinced it's the brain box but have run through the checks I can think of and the tips I got from our smart fellow members, as posted in this string, and all checks as should. So reckon for the 30 bucks and 10 minute replace I should toss in a new one as a try. I had put in a new starter relay too just a couple months back and ran fine after I did this; but from what I know this isn't a symptom of my problem anyway. Took out key switch tested that, checked its wiring/connections, good, checked ballast good but threw in a new one for good measure since I had a spare. Only other thing I'm pondering on is the button shift since I had refurbished the buttons and had them all out as it seemed this problem cropped up after doing this. Maybe just a coincidence; but donno...neutral safety works as it should; but could be the cable (that's new too) might need readjusting. Reason I say is the car feels like it's not fully in 'N' when cranking getting a slight movement like it's partly in gear...ahh but I had this happen before and never created this issue. Brain buster!

 

[Ron H]

I appreciate it when we share tips or get them to let everyone know how the problem was solved so wanted to let you know finally found the problem FYI. Some of you hit on it and I didn't take the tips far enough best I reckon. The top harness plug-in to the bulkhead was the issue. A buddy helping me out can take the credit, as he had a brainstorm while we were tracing down the blue wire to the BH. He held the harness up a tad while I started the car and fired up just fine. My issue is I have a new engine harness but a **** old BH. So shimming the harness plug to at least secure it has done the fix. Someday hope to replace the BH but at least working now. Thanks much for taking your time to toss me the tips!

 

[Fran Blacker]

I appreciate it when we share tips or get them to let everyone know how the problem was solved so wanted to let you know finally found the problem FYI. Some of you hit on it and I didn't take the tips far enough best I reckon. The top harness plug-in to the bulkhead was the issue. A buddy helping me out can take the credit, as he had a brainstorm while we were tracing down the blue wire to the BH. He held the harness up a tad while I started the car and fired up just fine. My issue is I have a new engine harness but a **** old BH. So shimming the harness plug to at least secure it has done the fix. Someday hope to replace the BH but at least working now. Thanks much for taking your time to toss me the tips!

Did you look the wire from interior side of bulk head? Once had a wire pushed out on the inside when I plugged wire in from engine bay. The plastic that holds connector may have failed.

 

[miller]

Probably already know this...
Firewall block, harness connections, the wire terminal ends have a locking tab, designed in them. Those tabs keep the terminals in place, so when things get pushed into place, connection is good (as it's gonna get).
Habit, when working on them, each wire gets a little tug, to be sure tabs are good. They can get bent out of shape, not lock, and the terminal can be pushed out...no connection.

Good hearing you found it! Simple stuff is a killer!

 

[Shark]

Chargervert,
I had the exact same issue with my 71. It was the ignition switch! Works fine now.

 

[Ron H]

Yeah - had been staring at the inside of the BH tracing the blue wire and that looked ok when my buddy was looking at it along the firewall to the harness having found he could simply lift the plug just a bit then said try to start it now...a longer story as posted earlier about re-routing the alt gauge to bypass the BH. I had done the new wiring but for now left this alone for a later project to connect that up...one of the new wires I routed over top of the BH probably put a little pressure on the top plug causing an unsquared seating into the BH; just enough to lose the connection. Had thought after taking out the ig switch to test that I messed something up under the dash. Have done a lot of rewiring with my new radio, power antenna, and console with lights to it, refurbished the gauges, buttons, etc, etc. so ya try to think 'ok what could I have messed up doing all that chit', careful as I was doing all that.

 

[Ranger16]

I have noticed the same thing recently. Car seems to start when I release the key. Bulkhead connector is clean and tight. After reading Ron's post (#26) I put a little upward pressure on the top connector this morning before starting it to go to a car show. She jumped to life almost immediately. I may have to have a closer look at those contacts. Maybe that ballast bypass connector needs a slight adjustment.

P.S.
Thanks to Ron H for the feedback.

 

[Ron H]

Good stuff! Was supposed to go with a couple buddies for a cruise this morning but now more fix it **** cropped up...not car related...but our ice maker took a dump and my wife is lost without ice cubes! So effin with that today...