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Carb Comparison & Opinions

So does a 4 barrel?

. . . Thanks for pointing that out . . . I had no idea . . .

:)

They both have jets too right, just want to make sure!?

Fact is, you need a wideband setup to tune properly, regardless if it's a single 2-barrel on a 318 or a 3x2 setup on a 440. Bypassing this step is the reason 90%+ of the population can't get a carb to run right on the street, with their exhaust smelling like a raw fuel sewage pipe at idle, getting 6-8mpg, and smoking a piston after a few WOT passes. Of course, it's the box stock' Holley or Eddy carbs fault right!? A dyno operator is not a god, he uses essentially the same device to tune carbs that you can purchase for yourself for around $200. If you don't believe in these types of Voodoo' witchcraft devices, just go EFI with a FItech system and let it do the tuning for you based primarily on your target AFR (Hint, hint). . . Or stick with a box stock carb and hope for the best, good luck!
 
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I agree on all the benefits of the TQ, but

The caveat is that almost all of the tuning and adjustment procedures begin with:

Remove from intake and turn upside down.....

I think you can completely rebuild an AFB/AVS without removing it from the intake.

Anyone running a 3 barrel?
 
I agree on all the benefits of the TQ, but

The caveat is that almost all of the tuning and adjustment procedures begin with:

Remove from intake and turn upside down.....

I think you can completely rebuild an AFB/AVS without removing it from the intake. It's been a long time since I did any tuning on a TQ but I sure don't recall having to remove it from the engine to do so.....

Anyone running a 3 barrel?
Why would you not remove a carb from the engine for rebuilding? It's been a long time since I've done any tuning on a TQ but I sure don't remember having to remove it from the intake and turning it upside down to do it....
 
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IMHO go with a vs whatever for your application. DP's are a waste of time&money for 90% of street use.They sound good but unless you're doing a lot of racing????
 
Perhaps a bit of exaggeration to make point, but based in truth.
 
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I have the same drive train as you except for the engine (383 vs 440). The car came with a 750 Edelbrock and I have had no problems so far so I am curious as to the reasoning behind your comment "No Edelbrock style carbs please. I'm DONE with them".

I've had Eddy carbs on a few different cars. I've tried to make them work. I just don't like them. Maybe it's me? When going back to a Holley style I've had more luck. So that's the way I'm going again. I just know them better. Also to mention on my 440 I worked my butt off trying to make the Eddy work. It never ran right. I had to add the carb spacer to stop the fuel from boiling in the bowl, and that additional height started to push up on the Air Grabber Hood. I'm just sour on them, that's pretty much it.

Also I've thought of going with the DP style carb simply to rid myself of additional "parts". The vacuum pod in particular and tuning/dealing with that. It might be minor, but the less parts the better I think. I'll let the experts chime in again on that thought.
 
I've had Eddy carbs on a few different cars. I've tried to make them work. I just don't like them. Maybe it's me? When going back to a Holley style I've had more luck. So that's the way I'm going again. I just know them better. Also to mention on my 440 I worked my butt off trying to make the Eddy work. It never ran right. I had to add the carb spacer to stop the fuel from boiling in the bowl, and that additional height started to push up on the Air Grabber Hood. I'm just sour on them, that's pretty much it.

Also I've thought of going with the DP style carb simply to rid myself of additional "parts". The vacuum pod in particular and tuning/dealing with that. It might be minor, but the less parts the better I think. I'll let the experts chime in again on that thought.
Pretty much the same for Me with the Eddy carb. Went with a 3310 with a slightly larger primary jet 72 IIRC,runs good. Then a 750 DP, runs even better.
 
i believe most "carb problems" are directly related to the individual not understanding how they work. they all operate off the same principals. any will work fine if kept within their designed parameters. one make is not hands down better than the rest.
 
i believe most "carb problems" are directly related to the individual not understanding how they work. they all operate off the same principals. any will work fine if kept within their designed parameters. one make is not hands down better than the rest.

I'm not denying your statement at all, but there is a personal preference. Otherwise there'd be only 1 kind of sneaker, 1 kind of car, 1 kind of beer. And we all know that would be a bad thing. Especially the beer one.
 
I had to add the carb spacer to stop the fuel from boiling in the bowl
I had that problem as well. Just for future reference with whatever carb you go with, switching from a 190 to a 180 thermostat cured the problem for me.
 
I had that problem as well. Just for future reference with whatever carb you go with, switching from a 190 to a 180 thermostat cured the problem for me.

Already have a 180 Stant one in there along with a 26" copper radiator, the clutch fan and a flex-a-lite fan with a 1" spacer to put it closer to the radiator. It doesn't boil like it did before I had the carb spacer on it.
 
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